Jump to content

Very Noob Question (about painting)


Recommended Posts

Hi, I am just getting into the building models however I am missing a couple tools, so I am wondering if I can use any substitutes (if there are any that can be found in the house)

First, the mask or watever that thing is called. You know, the thing you use for painting that blocks the paint from going onto that spot? I know it is very unique, but is there things that I could possibly use that would give me a.... an even crappy preformance? Oh and did I tell you that I only have , paintbrushes? And testos paints? Well I am not really ******** and I believe spraypaint is expensive and I usually do most of this stuff in my room (not the garage).... any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

PS (for paintbrushing, should I try browing the pain evenly using a hair-dryer :D ? ty )

Link to post
Share on other sites

a good substitute for mask is white glue. let it dry and take it off with a fingernail or a wet cloth. As far as the brush painting, drop a line to flyingfortress here on ARC. he is more than willing to help, and when it comes to brush painting he is a great painter....

welcome to the forum. always ask questions! you would not believe the knowledge these guys have on here!!

-Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites
a good substitute for mask is white glue. let it dry and take it off with a fingernail or a wet cloth. As far as the brush painting, drop a line to flyingfortress here on ARC. he is more than willing to help, and when it comes to brush painting he is a great painter....

welcome to the forum. always ask questions! you would not believe the knowledge these guys have on here!!

-Jim

Genious!

I have white paper liquid glue and I did notice that it becomes like candle wax when it dries ... thanks! Hmm, wonder how to contain it

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used elmer's glue in the past as a liquid mask, and it works great! I use an old paintbrush and literally paint it on the surface i'm trying to mask. i don't usually have to much of a problem with it oozing all over the place, especially if you go sparingly.

Jason

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are a number of cheaper alternatives for the various masking needs.

For hard masking, you can head to your local DIY store and look at the various tapes in the painting/decorating department. 3M do a range of low-tack tapes (blue tape) that are good. You'll want a good sharp knife, a metal rule and a clean cutting surface in order to cut the bigger tape into more manageable strips.

Hard masks can be used, even for brush painting, to separate colours. Small strips can be used to mask canopies and the like. You'll need to practice how best to bring the brushed paint up to the masking in order to get a nice clean edge without loading the paint up against the edge of the tape and getting a ridge when you remove the tape, or worse, a little bleed under. The thicker the tape, the more this can be a problem. My preference is to brush along the line of the tape and just edge the paint gently up to the tape rather than trying to draw the brush across the tape edge at an angle. If you are really stuck for cash, then look around the house for some frosted tape for gift wrapping. The frosted kind is best as its pretty low tack and doesn't leave a lot of residue.

Liquid masks are as you'de expect, a liquid that you apply, which then hardens, but can be removed. Its usually best used in places where the molding on the kit can be used to make an edge (for example, a very pronounced edge around a canopy frame). Some folks will use liquid mask to fill in large areas between tape edges. This is mostly for airbrushing. For brush painting, you have more control over the paint, so you really only want the mask for the demarcation line and not overall coverage. As already mentioned, White PVA glue is a good substitute. Also known as Elmers glue or 'school glue', not correction fluid.

If its a little on the tick side, you can thin it with clean water and then apply it as needed.

Hope this helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day T Two! For masks, try tape or white glue as previously described. Since you're a brush-painter, paint from mask to plastic with a lightly-loaded brush with quick flicking strokes. This minimises the build-up of paint (= the ridge) against the masking agent. This method will give you a hard-edged finish.

You can do a soft/feathered edge without the need for masks. Use a STIFF lightly-loaded brush vertically in a rapid tapping motion while moving sideways along the edge of the camouflage pattern. Once the whole patch(es) has been surrounded by this stippled edge, fill-in the rest of the patch with conventional brushing.

How to 'lightly' load a brush? First, a very-quick shallow dip into the paint, then wipe it on a piece of scrap unsealed paper (I use newspaper) or cardboard (underside of the kit box lid?). As an alternate, try the 'rapid tapping motion while moving sideways' with the just-dipped brush, on the cardboard till the brush is out of paint. Somewhere along that line, the feathered pattern will be to your liking. This'll show you what I'm trying to describe to you. It'll also quickly teach you how lightly loaded your brush should be, and haw far/close your tapping should be (for your brush).

Good luck, and have fun. George, out..........................

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...