NightHawk Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Okay, I've tried Testors Dullcoat right from the spray can, but it started looking yellow so I don't want to go there again. I tried mixing Tamiya Flat Base with Future, it seemed to work out for a while but then started to look to frosty. I was used Pollyscale Clear Flat/Satin but I think I may have ended up with a bottle from the bad batch a few years back & it put a bad taste in my mouth. I've been using Model Master Acryl Flat but again it's looking frosty. What I mean by that is my panel lines that were washed black seemed to have turned white on me after applying the flat finish. So... HELP!!! I feel like I've ruined another model & am close to finishing another & don't want to screw that one up also. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I was (and still are in some respects) a confirmed Pollyscale clear flat user, but that frost issue came up recently no matter how much the paint was stirred. A great alternative is Vallejo clear flat. Thin it with distilled water and it works just as well as Pollyscale. :) MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve N Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I've gone back to using the old Testor's purple-label dullcoat lacquer, thinned with laquer thinner. The fumes are extremely nasty, but it gives me a really nice finish. SN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
metroman Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 ditto on the MM dullcoat/gloss coat, never had bad results. Of course I think acrylics are rubbish anyhow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) Concur. MM lacquer flat in the Purple label square bottle, sprayed with an airbrush, comes out fantastic. It is a super smooth flat. I have never seen anything better. Thin with lacquer thinner. It will not yellow unless you just pile it on. I have been using it for 20 plus years. The rattlecan, however, goes on MUCH thicker. Plus it has a tendency to look splotchy. Rattlecans are for amateurs anyway. Stay away from them. Use the MM lacquer finishes and you will be good to go. They are the best finishes on the market, IMO. You can't really f them up. Edited June 26, 2009 by DutyCat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 The rattlecan, however, goes on MUCH thicker. Plus it has a tendency to look splotchy. Rattlecans are for amateurs anyway. Stay away from them. Crikey, steady on there :) Many, many modellers use spray cans to great effect. Also, car modellers use spray cans a great deal and produce amazing results. My brother-in-law is a car modeller and he uses Dulux Duplicolour and automotive spray cans which are direct matches for 1:1. :( MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottD Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I've had really good luck with Tamiya Spray Flat and Satin on my models. I've even decanted it and used it through my airbrush for extra control. The biggest issue with Tamiya Flat Spray is that it doesn't store well if you decant it..your better off spraying out some and letting it sit for 45 minutes and using it and dumping whatever else is left because if its left to sit around, I start to get white flecks in it...which is rather annoying Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I was (and still are in some respects) a confirmed Pollyscale clear flat user, but that frost issue came up recently no matter how much the paint was stirred.A great alternative is Vallejo clear flat. Thin it with distilled water and it works just as well as Pollyscale. :lol: MikeJ +1 for the Vallejo. I haven't tried it with distilled water but I've tried it with tamiya thinner and it works fine. I do thin it quite a bit and spray it from only a few inches from the model and try to lay it down wet. My advice is to get a scrap model, paint it gloss black and practice getting it flat without frosting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I have also had the best luck with MM brand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richter111 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Also if you are just shooting a flat coat of enamel, and done thave to worry about decaling, try adding ronson lighter fluid to your enamels. It makes a dead flat finish, unreal how flat it is. In tanks it makes them look like they have been exposed to the elements. Great for any kind of weapon that has seen use. Ric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Everybody has their favorite. The best advice I was ever given was to simply try each one until you find what works for YOU. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lock n' Load Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 +100 for MM, never failed me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Weebles Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 I've been using a product from a company called J.W. etc.'s called "RIGHT-STEP WATER BASE CLEAR VARNISH". Since I started using this I will never look back at other products, especially oil based products. No more fogging or modeling on your finish. I can't speak to Vallejo but I've tried all the others listed above and some not listed like mixing base flat in Future. Toss it all aside and use this stuff. It's not expensive, thins for your airbrush with distilled water and leaves a perfect and durable finish. I've even brushed this stuff and it self levels perfectly. No sign of brush strokes. You can get it at Hobby Lobby and probably other art dealers around. It can be found on the internet of course. Good luck Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Dude Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 I use the Model master rattle cans exclusivley but I don't spray them right out of the can. I decant them into the tinlet and shoot them through the airbrush, quite simply they are already thinned to proper ratios for airbrush use. I takes a little practice to decant the stuff without making a mess but it comes out smooth and thin coats when sprayed through the airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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