shark 64 Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 I am insulted(TIC)! Australia's military does not have Jet Rangers! They are Kiowas or Bell 206Bs! Would love to see you go nuts on an Aussie one in 1/35th scale. Now that would be someting! Let me know if you need decals?????Regards Andrew Ok ok 206's. Next build will be the trumpeter Dolphin helo in 1/35 French Navy version. 206 is on my list. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grandadjohn Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) Oliver, having reviewed the posts, I have to admit I was wrong, please except my alopagy(pardon my mispelling) Edited December 13, 2010 by grandadjohn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 Oliver, having reviewed the posts, I have to admit I was wrong, please except my alopagy(pardon my mispelling) Hi no apologies needed here. I was already trying to locate diamond plates to see if I could add to the tank.... Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whiteed Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Hello Shark 64. I watch your work from the benining but I never post a comment, but now I have to say that your model it´s the best model I haver seen. Amazing work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 Hello Shark 64.I watch your work from the benining but I never post a comment, but now I have to say that your model it´s the best model I haver seen. Amazing work Thanks so much for your comments. Happy to hear you like the Huey. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 (edited) Hi Everyone. I am afraid not much of an update. In order to work on the cabin I had to deal with the overhead windows. I know I wanted them to be as crisp as possible so I tried new stuff. I futured the windows and dipped them in green food coloring...Did not work well. The green food coloring did not attach well. I tried mixing food coloring and future together....did not work either. Finally I refutured the windows and applied Envirotex resin mixed with Tamiya clear green....That worked the best The first two photos are with food coloring Oliver Edited December 17, 2010 by shark 64 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chasejk Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Hi Everyone.I am afraid not much of an update. In order to work on the cabin I had to deal with the overhead windows. I know I wanted them to be as crisp as possible so I tried new stuff. I futured the windows and dipped them in green food coloring...Did not work well. The green food coloring did not attach well. I tried mixing food coloring and future together....did not work either. Finally I refutured the windows and applied Envirotex resin mixed with Tamiya clear green....That worked the best The first two photos are with food coloring Oliver Please excuse my ignorance, but I've heard several people talk about "futuring" parts. can someone tell me what the purpose of putting Future on parts accomplishes? And, oh yeah... fantastic work Oliver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 Please excuse my ignorance, but I've heard several people talk about "futuring" parts. can someone tell me what the purpose of putting Future on parts accomplishes? And, oh yeah... fantastic work Oliver. Hi Chasejk Go to the main page on ARC and go to" tools and tips" section. There is a section named FUTURE that should tell u what you want to know. Good luck. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew MacKay Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Oliver, try getting the Future / Green dye liquid hot before dipping the clear parts .... My brother is a Optical tech and this is how they tint glasses, around 70 - 90 degrees c Care required of-cause. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Bradley Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Oliver, I have had good luck spraying very thin coats, letting them dry a day or so in between. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Oliver, are you going to leave it like that?? i see them very transparent, they could need more green.... Great technique btw... Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrittMac Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 We talked about the blue tinted 32nd Cobra canopy a little while back and I did a test. Tamiya clear blue thinned out worked just fine. I would think the Tamiya clear green (thinned) would work for you too. I dunno. Do what you think is best. It is your model after all. Brandon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 We talked about the blue tinted 32nd Cobra canopy a little while back and I did a test. Tamiya clear blue thinned out worked just fine. I would think the Tamiya clear green (thinned) would work for you too. I dunno. Do what you think is best. It is your model after all.Brandon My research photos dont show any blue tint for the overhead windows. I did use Tamiya green mixed with resin. Worked so far..Do you have any photos of your test with the blue. Like to see how it turned out . I might try it with the front windshield. OLiver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 My research photos dont show any blue tint for the overhead windows. I did use Tamiya green mixed with resin.Worked so far..Do you have any photos of your test with the blue. Like to see how it turned out . I might try it with the front windshield. OLiver Oliver, I think Brandon was only saying that what worked for blue might work for green. If you figure out how to tint the windows consistently please let me know. i've tried most of the same things you did and never got a great result. I have also seen new greenhouse windows made from sprite bottles or some other green clear plastic. given your unparalleled scratch building skill, perhaps you should go that route. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grandadjohn Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Testors also makes a transparent green in a rattle can, use thin coats if you use it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
11bee Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Oliver, I have had good luck spraying very thin coats, letting them dry a day or so in between. Tim That is my approach as well. Very thin coats, give them time to dry and they will eventually build up into a pretty uniform tint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hajo L. Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 I use simple window color. I got it in a DIY-store - works like charm! HAJO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Doppel Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Hi Oliver, Having built a few Hueys with the green upper windows, what I do is mix green food dye with either PVA glue and paint it on or 'Kleer' glue mixed with the green dye. Works a treat. Regards Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 19, 2010 Author Share Posted December 19, 2010 Hi Oliver,Having built a few Hueys with the green upper windows, what I do is mix green food dye with either PVA glue and paint it on or 'Kleer' glue mixed with the green dye. Works a treat. Regards Andrew :) Hi Andrew Can you take tight photos of the final product Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evnewsphoto Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Oliver, "I feel your pain", since you can't see me, I am biting my lower lip and making a fist with my thumb over top like Bill used to. I went through several squadron vacu-formed canopies (like 10 or so) when I built my S-3 Viking trying to get the correct half clear half tinted look (the windscreen is not tinted on the real jet), tinting is one of the hardest things to get right. I have never been able to figure out how best to use those Tamyia tinting paints, mostly because they are so hard to thin and airbrush correctly. What worked best in the end was mixing Tamyia smoke (in your case clear green) with Future and lots and lots of trial and error, dipping over and over till it looked right. I have had OK luck with food coloring and future but it tends to seperate since they are not chemically speaking then same thing. I wish someone (Testors are you reading this?) would make a simpler to use product for tinting clear parts, something that was premixed and we didn't spend weeks trying to get it right. But hey that would take the fun out of it right? Good luck, Everett Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 19, 2010 Author Share Posted December 19, 2010 Oliver, "I feel your pain", since you can't see me, I am biting my lower lip and making a fist with my thumb over top like Bill used to. I went through several squadron vacu-formed canopies (like 10 or so) when I built my S-3 Viking trying to get the correct half clear half tinted look (the windscreen is not tinted on the real jet), tinting is one of the hardest things to get right. I have never been able to figure out how best to use those Tamyia tinting paints, mostly because they are so hard to thin and airbrush correctly. What worked best in the end was mixing Tamyia smoke (in your case clear green) with Future and lots and lots of trial and error, dipping over and over till it looked right. I have had OK luck with food coloring and future but it tends to seperate since they are not chemically speaking then same thing. I wish someone (Testors are you reading this?) would make a simpler to use product for tinting clear parts, something that was premixed and we didn't spend weeks trying to get it right. But hey that would take the fun out of it right? Good luck, Everett Hi Everett. I hear you. Tinting canopy can be tricky at times. Heres another fun one to do in modeling: Sanding molded windshield wipers from clear parts and sanding it smooth till any scratches are showing..Fun, fun, fun. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Oliver, Your work is absolutely Impressive. The fine intricate detailing on this is just SUPER. You have an eye for detail, precision, Neatness and FLAWLESS work. BRAVO and KUDOS to you ... :lol: HOLMES Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hovering Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Have you tried 'magic marker'? This guy got a good result on his Dauphin. http://www.gengriz.co.uk/2009/May09.htm *he's built a large number of helos/models.. not sure if he's a member here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Have you tried 'magic marker'?This guy got a good result on his Dauphin. http://www.gengriz.co.uk/2009/May09.htm large number of helos/models.. not sure if he's a member here. Hi Thanks. Great link. Indeed that guy is a good modeler. I like to try the markers but I wonder if you would see the streaks of the pen on the windows....cant tell on the photos. OLiver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Doppel Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Hi Andrew Can you take tight photos of the final product Oliver Sorry Oliver, I have been offline for a few days over Christmas. Hope you and everyone else had a good one. I shall see what I can do for you as I am in a bit of an upheaval at the moment building a new display cabinet for all these Hueys! Regards Andrew :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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