mick555 Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Hi, I have been having a think of how to improve the kit decals from the 1/72 academy super etendard. also, i am doing the two tone grey camo scheme, not the blue on white which is the only option the decals give you. so was hoping to scan the decal sheet and print off the copy, and then cut out the numbers and the marine decals to make them the same colour as the jet. would this work OK? I'm not after a perfec result, but i think if i take my time cutting them out it should turn out alright?? just wanted some input before i bothered with this. thanks, Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhoupt Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I don't see why not. Never thought of it, but I may try it on an F-15 I am working on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rick in Maine Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I've done exactly what you are considering. But I did it on a 1/48 scale aircraft. It was A LOT of tedious work. OK, tedious work is what we do in this hobby! But I exceeded my limit cutting out the decal scan for masks. Rick in Maine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scooter Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 The cutting is the hardest, repeat, hardest part. If you have the time and the sharp knife, you'll be fine... don't forget to spray clear gloss over your scanned copy before you start the cutting... Adam Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mick555 Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 yeah, i had a feeling this may take me longer than expected! thanks for all the replies, great to know it is feasible and has worked for other's. why the clear gloss? what will that achieve?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scooter Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) After you print the decals, let them sit for a fair while until they are obviously dry. Then spray clear gloss over the printed sheet and let that dry. It seals in the ink and will give you a firmer top layer to cut through (and this a sharper edge) to your work. That will be better for a stencil, or a general print of decals anyway... Adam Edited July 26, 2009 by scooter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mick555 Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 ah, OK! shall do. thanks for that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El pibe vitina Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) --- Edited July 26, 2009 by El pibe vitina Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Impatient Pete Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) I'm doing something similar on my P-8 Poseidon build to mask the windows. I scanned the kit windscreen decals and then traced them in Adobe Illustrator and stuck some masking tape to a sheet of paper and printed onto the tape. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....20&start=20 (scroll down the page) Edited July 26, 2009 by Impatient Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Shropshire Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I used a similar method in making paint mask for a 1:72 Blue Angels F/A-18. Hasegawa's yellow decals are translucent and when placed on the dark blue paint look more like a shade of green then yellow. To resolve this, I photocopied the decal sheet then with an xacto knife traced them on to a sheet og vinyl, the same stuck used for window decals on cars. Painted the yellow Laid down mask and sealed with another coat of yellow Then painted the blue All the stripping and the number 5, where done by masks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
speedlimit Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) I sometimes challenge myself into photocopying art decals and cutting them to serve as template for masking and painting the art on the kit. Here is a sample. Here is a sample: Eric Edited July 26, 2009 by speedlimit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
louie Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Avery makes an adhesive backed sheet that i copy onto. the adhesive has never left a residue, it is thicker than normal copy paper and gives a sharper demarcation line. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cksh Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Wow, glad I saw this thread. I might try some of these techniques. Does the tape come back up off the paper easily? Never tried it. Would it be OK to put a gloss coat onto the paper, then the tape, and then print it? Trying to come up with a good balance beteen tackyness and having paper fiber stuck to the tape. I might try the avery stuff too. I wouldn't be surprised if I have some of that laying around. My only trouble will be getting the scale correct once I trace the scan. I know my software will skew the scale somehow between getting it scanned and then tracing it. Guess I will have to use some math Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Loggie Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 (edited) Yes, Mike555. But do not aim too high. The most complex ones I've done are black German WWI crosses. I photostated the decal sheet (wirh magnifications & reductions), then covered the 'decal' with wide clear tape. Next, I covered the 'decal' with masking tape (fold the corners under), then carefully cut out the 'decal' with a new knife blade &/or sharp cuticle scissors. This creates a stencil in the masking tape. Remove the mask (the folded-under cornerd help a real lot) then place the mask on the model and spray (follow the usual rules - burnish down and spray away from the tape). Try it on scrap. Good luck. George, out....................... Edited August 20, 2009 by The Loggie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ti Raven Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Try printing your new decals, spray a VERY light coat of clear gloss. Having gone in the meantime to a 'Craft Store', like Michael's or Hobby Lobby, Check the size of paper punch circles that matches your round/ oval decals. They even have rectangle, iron crosses, stars and other ...odd shaped punches. Even if your rectangles will need a bit of trimming on one end or side this cuts down on messy or wobbly cuts You could punch before the coat of clear, but curling is just about inevitable. The best thing to do is check with a crafting spouse/ friend/ relative or such first. If you can borrow punches once in a while, you will have more coins for styrene and resin goodness. ~ Ti Raven Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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