chukw Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Bullets? ZOMG!! Cheers, UberStukaFurher! chuk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) Chuck, UberStukaFurher! Hahaha, oh, that made me laugh really hard. Just a quick one today. Opposite to the opened reservoir tank, the panel left closed was molded poorly especially at the top. So, decided to try something different. I've been itching to try high-heat metallic tape for something, so decided to try it out. I ended up starting with making a template by marking the panel outline with a fine black marker, then putting a piece of masking tape on. Cutting the panel outline out, I took the "template" and cut the shape out of the high heat tape, and overlapped 4 layers. Reason being that I wanted to use this tape, it's easy to work with, adhesive backing, and it's soft - very easy to scratch and put indentations into - more on this later. So, here's the Stuka, and the tape: The panel - which is supposed to be raised, was put on in place, making sure no bubbles were caught underneath: Next, I used a couple of tools: I put a nice round pointed indentation where the two bolts holding the panel down are located, but not all the way through the tape. Then taking the drill bit, I rolled it opposite to the way you would use it to drill through something - The idea is to spread the area out around the punched hole. Using just those two tools, this is what it ended up looking like: Well all, enjoy your Friday, and happy modeling! Mark. Edited October 23, 2009 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Just posted the M10, something I worked on a while ago and pulled out of the storage closet this afternoon... and thought I would take some pictures. Academy 1/35 M-10 Happy Modeling! Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Hi Mark. This is one amazing Stuka! I love the scratch-build rounds. Is there any chance you could do a mini pictorial for making them? Watching this one! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 David, Sure thing! I'll put together something this weekend and put it up in the Tips & Tools section. Glad you're liking this build! Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 That is beyond awesome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Thank you very much Isaac! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CorsairMan Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 I love the gun bays! Your wing 'guts' are great too. Say what you want about the scale, this is excellent work. Please keep it up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) Thank you very much for those compliments! The scale is an absolute joy I must say. Tonight I got a little bit of work done. I wanted to try that same foil on the front edge of the vertical stabilizer to see if I could get a better effect than the plastic... I'll just grab some pictures here in a few and post them up with a tiny bit of a how to... that bloody tail plane is the most difficult part of the build so far as the "just right" look is so close, and yet so far away. With just enough plastic motivation I might get it just how I want it. Till then, Happy modeling, Mark. Edited October 25, 2009 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 2 more quick ones tonight - vertical stab, and a mini how to - as mentioned. Starting with the vertical Stab. The larger portion of the leading edge (the bigger piece of tin foil) was in it's development of the Stuka, always changing. The biggest change from the Anton's to the B models was a small "boot" at the base of it which was raised - in some examples quite a bit, in others not so much, but there was always a defining line. I wanted to see if layering the metal-tape would aid me in raising this area without having to build up putty and file/sand it smooth. Turns out - it works! The second benefit of the self adhesive tape, is that it is very sensitive to any pressure - it dents easily. Perfect! You find me a front line aircraft that flies on a daily basis from sometimes very primitive airfields just kilometers from an advancing front that wont have dents or scuffs in it. As well, it's a great way to give the look of stretched aluminum skin. (as I side note, one of the things I used to do was rivet panels on aircraft - they're never perfectly smooth, but gentlemen, as we say in the military, I'm not hear to teach people how to suck eggs... just a little tidbit of info that freehanded riveting was never glass smooth). So, here's some shots: And I added the "hinge" to the forward panel: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 and continuing onto the quick how to... really, really simple. For this, I just used two random panels side by side. These aren't going to be done this way for the finished product, but they served well to get a quick little how to: First, put the piece of self adhesive heat-tape (metal-tape) onto the area. The best way is to place it in the center, or on the high point (this example being the wing): Once it's on, using a Q-tip, push it outwards from the center until the whole area is covered evenly. This will help limit the amount of wrinkles and especially help prevent bubbles. In this case, it also helps us find the panel lines we need. Don't worry about rivets or such, we're focusing here on a nice smooth laying of the tape, and just a hint of the panel lines: Once we know where they are, taking a tooth pick (because of it's soft and workable point), trace out the outline of the panel: Once this is done, taking a nice sharp blade, cut off the excess. Take the same toothpick, and lightly push in the rivets. Once this is done, THEN take a Kleenex (not a Q-tip), and rub back and forth over the whole area, not just the individual panel. This will ensure that the whole thing follows the general contour of the area: You can see in the picture minor scratches and small tiny dents - after a shot of dullcoat or primer, then the flat finish, these won't be noticeable. The small "wavey" effect around the rivets will be subtle, but noticeable. Once it's all done, clean up around the edges, and you're finished. Excluding hitting it with dullcoat - the whole thing took me less than 5 minutes. Hope this helps, and happy modeling, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) Work finished around those two panels - I did them again and cleaned up the edges and was really happy with the look. Work continued on today - all the joints were done again with filler - a couple of touch up spots needed, but all in all, the dirty work is coming along nicely. I'll have a few pictures up tonight - and to deviate from the boring work of the filler/sanding work, I also did a little work with the 500 Kg bomb - just to break up the monotony of gap filling. A little work was needed on the bomb, but, I wont spoil the details until pictures come up. Thanks again everyone for looking at this thread, Happy Modeling! Mark. Edited October 26, 2009 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JP Vieira Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Te amount of work you're puting into this one is amazing: it will look awesome when finished Best regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 JP Vieira, thank you very much! I'm hoping I don't drop the ball and botch the final paint work when all is said and done, haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Miccara Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Bullets? You're making flippin' bullets now? Alright, but if I see you working on a function hydraulic system that includes differential brakes, I will hunt you down like a dog. :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Larry, If I get to that point - please come on out and hunt me down... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) Well, as the filler dries - again - as mentioned, I decided to just deviate a little on this build and jump ahead to a key part of the munitions, the SC 500, the 500 Kg bomb that will be in the bomb rack. Each time I looked at this piece I wasn't happy with it. Reading over the instructions, there were a couple things missing, and a couple things embellished. Now, to be clear on sources when it comes to loadouts: The SC 500 and SC 250 were used, oddly enough, for almost anything relating to soft targets and small concrete buildings. These general purpose bombs (the SC 500 comparable to the Allied 1000 pound HE, and the SC 250 the general purpose HE 500 pounder that the Allies used) were a mixed bag - consider then half HE and half armour piercing. None the less... the 250/500's were often used with the intent to hit targets that were easy to destroy such as troop movements, soft skinned vehicle convoys, artillery positions, etc., etc., etc... there are a few sources that point out the following: 1. The SC 250 was used often with the 4 x 50 Kg wing mounted bombs against the above mentioned targets 2. The SC 500 was used against bunkers, buildings, and up-armoured positions - without being able to take the 50 Kg bombs 3. If the B-1 with the Jumo 211 A-1 was taking the SC 500, then the 4 x 50 Kg bombs could be taken, but the rear gunner would have to be left behind (for weight). As odd as it may be, and other sources counter this by saying that all B's could take the 500 kg, 4 x 50 kg AND the gunner, it came out to the units actual manifest for the day. 5136 did indeed take off with an SC 500, 4 x 50 Kg bombs, and a gunner the day she was shot down. Seeing that, it was decided to represent this loadout. SO, without further delay, on we go. My main colour reference was this picture - a famous postcard shot of bombs lined up beside a Ju 87 D-? - note the whistles: The red stripes on the bombs denote SC 250's, the Yellow being SC 500's. The reason they're so bloody dirty - they were left out in the open. More often than not, you'll see Stuka's on the front line with bombs stacked or laying on the dirt - like in the picture - waiting for the -87's return. As soon as she came back, she was bombed up again. If minor maintenance was needed, then it would be done after the ammo uploads were complete. So, they sometimes sat in the dirt for a while. The picture above though is from late summer in the prairies on the Eastern front - 5136 was downed in early '40, on the Western front - thus, the bombs wont be as dusty/dirty - far from clean though. The kit pieces consisted of this: Construction was simple enough, however, the fins were far too thick, and as mentioned, the bomb was lacking. Using a couple good references, I started to do my thing. Nothing new here, as most of us do this, but the fins were replaced with much thinner evergreen: Then, looking at the picture, I took some brass rod, and filed in a whistle opening and cut them to size - short when compared to the later reference picture, but there's a good B&W showing a shorter whistle on an early war SC 500, so I went with that option: Once it was all on, and using thin brass rod for the fin reinforcing bars, I gave a quick shot of MM's "Dark Green." Looking at the picture, you'll see the long streaks at the fin joints with the bomb-body. I found on the M10, that by using a line of medium/thick super glue like that - just run a stream down the joint and let it sit and dry on it's own - a "ridge" builds up. The intent was to do this so that a nice "welding bead" could be seen: After that, I used a small pin to bring back the rivets, and rescribed some lines: After the glue dried it began to give that "welded on" look to the fins as I mentioned before: After that was all nice and dry, I applied some pastel chalks to the bomb-body after the yellow lines were painted in. I wanted to give a faded yellow look to them, and here's what I got: And finally, going over some good references as to what the stenciling on the bombs meant, I added those, the two fuses, a few paint chips, and used pastel chalks to highlight the bomb collar. I was really happy with how it turned out, and the welded look really does give a nice touch I think: And now that one is ready to be slung under the Stuka - which, well, isn't exactly ready for a bomb yet... Happy modeling! Mark. Edited October 26, 2009 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Wow Mark, those bombs look phenomenal! The welded seem certainly looks the part! Thanks for the background info as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Isaac, Thank you very much! I'll be including the reference material in the write up on the "building a Stuka" thread I've got on the go in the props section - compiling all the info and should have it all finished by the end of the week I'm hoping - a lot more to go in. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 lovely work mate! Love the whistles. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapaSmurf630 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Brilliant update. Phenomenal work on that bomb, I've seen the glue/weld technique used over on car modelling forums and never found or seen an opportunity to use it on aircraft apart from this. It came out beautifully! The only thing I'd like to see is a quick shot of the raised/foiled panels you've done on the wings with a quick coat of primer over them to see how much they 'pop' from the surface of the wing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 David, thank you very much! Jake, Car modelling? I guess yeah, that would make a lot of sense. I fuond this one by accident when I "streaked" some medium glue to clean the nozzle, and afterwards it gave the ridge, so I tried it on the M10 for some areas around the turret and panel weld lines, and it worked great. Two birds with one stone on this one - stong joint lines between parts, and a cool effect. With regards to the quick shot of the raised/foiled panels, I'll definitely focus on that too when it comes time to hit them with primer. At the rate things are going I'm thinking that by the end of this weekend that the Stuka is going to be primed. Not much left to do between now and then. The "To Do" list to get to primer is a short one: 1. Finish work on the tail 2. Finish with the filler & rescribe 3. Make the roller over assembly 4. Add details, paint interior frames, and glue in/fill in forward and center canopy sections 5. Clean up and mask off 6. Shoot with primer If all goes well with the primer, in that no corrections need to be made, all of next week (and however long it'll take) will be spent with the exterior painting of the Stuka. Hopefully all goes well! Happy modeling, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blackcollar Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Beautiful work Marc, as usual... Well done indeed. Your painting on that bomb makes look real contrary to the toy like finish often seen -Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Thank you very much Al! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 ...how bout that tutorial on how to do the bullets? ^_^ David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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