Kostucha Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 BINGO! Figured out how to shorten the radiator, and got the numbers to boot! The longest slat in the radiator on the B-2 is 425 mm tall (or roughly 17mm in 1/24 scale). This is JUST the slat. The kit radiator is 15mm. Now, 2 mm doesn't really make a lot of difference, right? Well, then I started to really look, and here's what I found: The kit's radiator panel is spot on. Really impresseive molding actually. The radiator slat housing however is rediculously thick (the "frame" if you will around the slats) on the front side, but nice and thin on the rear side. That same frame on the real thing was overlaped by the radiator cowl on the top and bottom when looking head on. On the kit they're flush. The real deal was slung lower, on the kit, to accomodate the whole shoot and shabang assembly in the cowel, it's a little bit further back and the upper part is thick as all... heck... when looking at reference pictures, but matches up spot on with the outter dimensions of the radiator assembly (widest point, and from the center "V"). So, what does this all boil down to? I was wracking my brain all this time with why the B-2 kit radiator looked so much like the B-1... so I used the caliper on the inside of the rad rather than taking outside measurements. The kit radiator is molded nicely - the outside dimentions are bang on with the B-2, the internal portion - the slats - are to short, the frame around it was molded too thick. So, on a whim, I measured the inside with the measurements of the B-1... the tallest slat on the B-1 radiator is 345 mm... 14.4 mm in scale... so after all that measuring, my life got a whole lot simpler - base the measurements of the new radiator off of the inside of the radiator. That gives me the height. As for the width, both are just as wide as they're suppose to be. The width in the rad between the B-1 and B-2 didn't change. Did any of that make sense, or did I just end up making myself look like a tool? Anywho, kids asleep, baby monitor is on, going to grab a coffee, have a smoke, and start crackin! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Hopefully this makes a little more sense: All the measurements were taken off of technical specs, and this is the B-1 Radiator. Same number of slats, just as wide as the B-2, but here's a shot of the B-2 rad: The two red lines are the measurements I was talking about with the tallest slat. You can see from the two how thin the radiator frame is, and how closely the interior of the two (shape wise) are. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick_Nevin Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Yay, Mark, good morning and great work you're doing. The quality is inspiring, I hope you're having as much fun as the results suggest? Patrick (Brooding over the 'flattened solder' thing for his 109's. Worrying about the flux, specifically ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Thank you Patrick. I am really, really having a lot of fun with this build, the updates later tonight I hope show that. As for the flux in the solder good Sir, it's not to be completely dismissed as 'nothing to worry about'. I would give this advice, and perhaps I should have earlier... 1. When using solder with flux, and using superglue, make sure the area is ventilated and you're not breathing in any fumes (either from superglue) or otherwise - a common sense thing. 2. When handling the solder, try to minimize it with bare hands, with small parts, I end up using tweezers for the most part anyway. Helps a great deal to minimize the lead/flux from rubbing on your fingers. 3. When exposing flux directly, usually a coat of dullcoat/clear coat, or superglue will "cap" any exposed flux. It is a very minimal amount of flux in this solder. I guess a rule of thumb is, don't eat the flux. Solder is a great aid to giving models that extra little bit. But like anything else out there, it needs to be used with common sense and preventative measures to ensure we all stay healthy, much like painting with enamels, or working with thinners. Happy modeling, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Madness. I think you need to stop eating that flux man! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Hahaha! Thanks David! Alright, onto the Radiator. So, construction started with the new radiator base plate. This is the rough shape that will have everything based off of it. When I said 'rough' cut, it is rough... it is just a template to help with cutting thicker plastic: From there, the base was made that both grills will be glued onto. These were sanded nice and smooth: Then, the outer case was made with more evergreen. Inside on the front and rear face, I used spare coffee filter material (a fine weave) glued and trimmed down - I'll have a better picture of this on the rear face as this is what was used for the back. Once in, everything was sprayed flat black. Once that was done, the front and rear faces were masked off and painted silver. Here's a shot comparing the old rad and new one before the silver painting: For the front face of the radiator, I couldn't find the right screen until I was at Wally world today, and found one of these things for a couple bucks: It was cut out, and to save myself some stress, I put tape on the back: Once it was painted flat black, I chipped a bit of the paint off the screen - I mean, really, who's got a used radiator that is still perfectly black? It was then put into the front face of the rad: The two angled support rods were then drilled through. In this picture you can see through the spaces in the screen and see the coffee filter material I was mentioning. I also wanted to add a bug or two squished into the radiator, until my wife said it might be a bit much... she may be right. But, here's the way the rad sits right now: With this all done, the front face is going to be masked off. Next up is going to be the mounting bracket for the rad, the front "lip" and the ports for the piping going through the rad. Once all that is finished, then it's back to the front and rear faces - make the slats, the rigging, and the port at the bottom center of the rear face. Happy Halloween! Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Mark, that radiator is magnificent! The ideas and approaches you come up with for solving a particular modelling problem are very creative, and quite inspirational! Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CorsairMan Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Whoa That is cool. I never would have thought of that! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Kev, thank you very much! I before I got out of the hobby, I was used to building on a kids budget, so, looking around to see what I could use became second nature - Hardware stores are AWESOME for building models! Corsair, thank you good Sir. Well, on this forum there are thousands of us... literally... and among us all, there are so many neat ideas that help us all out. I spend long stints in the "Tools and Tips" section of ARC just scrolling and reading through the older entries... I'm at about page 15 or so... glad that I could help! Okay, continuing on with the Radiating weekend, here is a quick shot of that coffee filter I was talking about. I didn't think to take a picture before I started cutting out sections though, sorry, but it gives the idea I hope. 2 Bucks at Walmart: And this is a quick shot showing the screen and how fine it is: Another with the one from the strainer: This stuff works really well, and is really easy to use. The effect it's giving is exactly what I was looking for too, so two different screens for about 5 bucks when you throw in tax. (As a sidenote, if you're looking for chains, don't bother with ordering them. Go into a cheap jewellery store, and look at the chains there, for a 10 dollar bill you can get a large amount of different gauges of chain, it's what I used for the M10. A quick bit of painting, and they're great - a lot more selection than anywhere else I've found online - just bring your wife with you, that way you avoid strange looks and weird questions, a lesson learned the hard way). So, moving on, I began building on the first part made, making the radiator housing. The housing leaves a little room on the back, as well as a large bit on the front. On the front as well is a part that wraps around (this holds all the pivot points for the slats): After that was done, the mounting brackets for the radiator to the radiator housing were put in (six on the front, and six on the back, inline with each other), and the two radiator housing 'clamps' centered at the bottom: And the finished evergreen work. The two 'nubs' on the top of the housing are where the front pipes are going to meet up: A quick shot of silver was put on: Then using the high-heat metal tape, the radiator housing was wrapped, and using a fine tipped pokey thingy - I've still yet to find the name for this tool - the rivets were punched in: Once I was happy with this, I added the ID plate to the RH side, applied the dark grey pastel chalk, and shot it with dullcoat. Here's the front side: And the back side: From here on in, all that is left is the front slat assembly. Once that is installed on the front, then the backside is going to be worked on, addidng the mount for the rear rad pipe. There will then be an upper lip installed that was present on the front and rear upper radiator, and then the whole shoot and shabang get's mounted to the engine. Once there, the front and rear rad pipes are going to be made, along with any other wiring that would be needed. Well folks, it's late, and the last of the trick-o-treaters are gone, so I bid you all a good night, or good morning. Happy Modeling! Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Yet more awesome work Mark. (As a sidenote, if you're looking for chains, don't bother with ordering them. Go into a cheap jewellery store, and look at the chains there, for a 10 dollar bill you can get a large amount of different gauges of chain, it's what I used for the M10. A quick bit of painting, and they're great - a lot more selection than anywhere else I've found online - just bring your wife with you, that way you avoid strange looks and weird questions, a lesson learned the hard way). As a matter of fact I am looking for a chain, as the last part to finish off my Zero. However, I'm having a go at faking it myself, as I really want to finish this off before I get a chance to get to the shops. If I bomb out, I'll seek them out. Thanks for the tip! Are they likely to have sizes that will work in 1/32? Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Yet more awesome work Mark.As a matter of fact I am looking for a chain, as the last part to finish off my Zero. However, I'm having a go at faking it myself, as I really want to finish this off before I get a chance to get to the shops. If I bomb out, I'll seek them out. Thanks for the tip! Are they likely to have sizes that will work in 1/32? Kev Thank you Kev! As for the chains, here's a shot of the chain I used for the front of my 1/35 M10 - this was one of the larger link sizes I bought: Wish you luck with making your chain. And great build, you've definitely got my interest with this one! Hope this helps! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick_Nevin Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 As for the flux in the solder good Sir, it's not to be completely dismissed as 'nothing to worry about'. I would give this advice, and perhaps I should have earlier...[snip] It is a very minimal amount of flux in this solder. I guess a rule of thumb is, don't eat the flux. I was unclear. Was addicted to solder fumes long before it was discovered they are carcinogenic, and used to warm up my work coffee by quenching the nearest iron in it. So, lost cause there. Never got electrocuted by the casually-flicked excess, tho'... Was more interested in your paint regime, given the acid cores of the electronics stuff. Your work is inspiring me to dig out a reel or two, y'see... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Amazing radiator there mate. now....how about a mug of coffee? lol David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 (edited) ...Was more interested in your paint regime, given the acid cores of the electronics stuff. Your work is inspiring me to dig out a reel or two, y'see... Patrick, Any and all solder that I use on the kits ends up being painted. Either by a colour, dullcoat, glosscoat, or semi-gloss coat. Even when I was younger and using solder, it was done the same way... something passed onto me by my father - used to run an electronics repair shop, so he too like yourself had some fine exposure to the stuff. No. 1 rule though was always to wash your grubby little hands after using the stuff. Working with solder - love the stuff. Makes like so much easier with detailing. If you've got it Patrick, by all means go for it - I'd love to see what you can do with that stuff on the 109 you mentioned. As for it lasting, there's still a couple of kits kicking around that are almost 15 years old with the same type of solder, both painted and left with a clear coat on - no residue, chipping, running, or anything. Amazing radiator there mate.now....how about a mug of coffee? lol David You ask, and you shall receive David: Early morning today. Bunch of us are heading out on quads to go do some mudding around in the area after breakfast, so, funny you should mention the mug of coffee... and before anyone comments on the Christmas mug, or being too big... 1. there is no such thing as a cup of coffee too big, and 2. well, I can't really explain the Christmas theme... Here's a quick shot of the slats being made and put in... one... at.. a.. time... (thank God the next build is a radial)... After that was done, the cross members, or slat link, was made: And the rear face as well - this is what the coffee screen effect comes out looking like: The beauty of the metal tape as well, you can rub off the dull coat to give shiney areas, spots, and streaks. Added the vent nozzle as well, and here are some shots of the finished radiator: Next up, the three rad hoses, and a couple small lines, the spill lip, and then up onto the bottom of the engine she goes! Thanks everyone, have a great Sunday, and happy modeling! Mark. Edited November 1, 2009 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blackcollar Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Very well done!!! Good use of resources and imaginative solution! -Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Great update Mark! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Great Stuff! It looks just the part. And as for the coffee mug. Your right. I have one with Tigger on it...but its massive..so who cares! lol David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Thank you gentlemen very much! The rad is going to be cleaned up a bit more, as it's a bit rough around the edges. Aside from that, work on the pipes continues. Unfortunately, she sits crooked under the engine, so a little bit of creative shaving needs to be done. The whole assembly is level on it's own, but the LH side sits a little bit low. I think I have a good idea on how I'm going to address this issue. Hopefully more updates later on tonight. That being said, the body on the Stuka up front is ready, just a little more work around in the tail end on the vertical stabilizer and elevator. The vertical stabilizer is still a little canted, however it's flexible enough that when the rudder is attached it sits perfectly vertical. My plan was though to attach the rudder and the horizontal stabilizer supports at the end after painting so I don't miss any spots with the airbrush, now I'm debating on whether or not I want to attach them now or still wait. All work aside from the engine is slowly being crossed off of the to-do list prior to painting... thankfully. Rescribing should be a breeze, as well as adding the flush rivets. What is going to be a pain is all those pop rivets in the back. Many, many tiny drops of super glue... As for the list of parts still waiting to be done, that too is getting smaller and smaller. Dare I say it... the light is at the end of the tunnel! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eastern Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Hi Mark! I've just traced your thread thoroughly since my last comment...You know, I was simply astonished and only word I can say is FANTASTIC!! Keep it up! Cheers and happy modeling! Alexander. :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 Eastern, thank you very much for your comment good Sir! Greatly appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chukw Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Mark, you continue to amaze and delight! That radiator is a real work of art. Cheers- chuk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapaSmurf630 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Very impressive updates! The radiator came out very nicely...would there be any chance of a comparison picture between the OOB part and your new-and-improved radiator? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 Chuk, Thank you very, very much. I greatly appreciate your comments. Jake, I'm afraid I tossed it. I'll have a quick rummage through and see if I can't find it, but at the worst, I'll just cut/copy/paste two pictures together. Thangs again everyone! Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 Just a couple quick pictures of the Rad on the engine. Got the fitment issue sorted out: Later on if I get the chance tonight it'll be the plumbing between the back of the rad, and the lower panel mounting bracket (Ie., support arms, electrical/fluid/control lines, etc.) Till then, Happy Modeling, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
viper494 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Nice one mate looking very nice indeed. Clive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.