Foil Adhesive Issues..........

[NCpilot79]

Hello Fellow ARC'ers......

Well, I'm absolutely amazed at some of the NMF aircraft that I've seen here, and I've decided to try my hand at foiling on a scrap F-86 model that has taken a permanent place on the shelf of doom. I'm trying to get this down before I try it on my B-58 Hustler. Everything looks great, except for two issues............

Firstly, I've tried two types of glue. I found some at Hobby Lobby that is more like a rubber cement, and another from Bare Metal Foil. I am using a make-up sponge in order to hide brush marks, and I spread the adhesive evenly on the back side of the foil. I've waited a few minutes, and them placed it on the model to be burnished down- it slides everywhere and doesn't seem to want to stick. Even after I get it conformed to the panel, it wants to peel easily, or just falls off! What am I doing wrong? I wait until it turns to a matt clear (5 minutes- ish), and try it, but no luck. Did I get a bad batch of Bare Metal Adhesive, or is it a humidity problem?

Secondly, I did get some to stick a while back, but I couldn't figure out how to work compound curves like wing root fillets on the leading edges or trailing edges. Also, how do people foil wing tips, and tail/nose cones without wrinkles. I always seem to need to do multiple pieces, but them I'm left with unsightly lines where they overlap: ( Ugh- I love the look of it, but could certainly use some guidance here. Also, I've been using the thinnest foil I could find- that's what I need, right?

Thanks for the help guys: )

Best Regards,

Eric

Edited July 30, 2009 by NCpilot79

[MHaz]

Hey Eric,

I've got a couple of NMF models that I'm working on, and I've been using Microscale's foil adhesive on regular ol' household aluminum foil with great results. I haven't tried the Bare Metal stuff, but for the Microscale adhesive, I only wait about 45 seconds before I start putting the foil onto the model and burnishing it down.

For compound curves, I had to get a bit creative - things like engine nacelles and radomes are done in small sections, sometimes a panel at a time, and have a little overlap between pieces of foil. If your foil is fairly thin, once you burnish it down, the seams practically hide themselves. Give the seam a rub with some 000 or 0000 steel wool once the adhesive fully dries, and that should take care of any remaining lines.

For wingtips, I use 1 piece on the top, 1 piece on the bottom, and trim them at the very edge. I use a small 1/4" or so strip around the leading edge of the wingtip to hide the join line. The trick is, cut a bunch of small slits in the edge of the strip so that there are no wrinkles where you fold the strip over the top and bottom wing surface. Again, give it a good rub with steel wool and 95% of all the joints will virtually disappear when you're done.

Mike

Edit: One thing I forgot - I've discovered that you can spray MM Metalizer over the foil with good results once you've got the model covered. If all your foil is the same color, the extra Metalizer on panels adds some "pop" to the model's surface.

Edited July 30, 2009 by MHaz

[Don Wheeler]

I've had good luck with Mona Lisa Metal Leaf Adhesive that I got at a Michael's craft store. It was about $3 with a 50% off coupon.

Here's an article that might help.

Don

[Miccara]

Don is correct... the Mona Lisa stuff is what I use on all the kits I foil. I think it is by far the best for this purpose (and I tried quite a few). here is one article I submitted to ARC on the very first one I completed. There is a picture of the Mona Lisa glue in the article.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal5...9_Shred/00.shtm

Edited July 31, 2009 by Miccara

[a20havoc]

Check this thread. http://www.hyperscale.com/features/2000/f84bs_1.htm

Bucky also did a great article in fine scale modeler with a p-38. He addresses curves etc.

Edited July 31, 2009 by a20havoc

[archybean]

i agree on the mona lisa adhesive...ive used it on 1/72 b-36, and 1/48 p-38, -51, -80 with no problems!