hooknladderno1 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Hey Guys, I am finally "building" my first helicopter model, instead of just lurking and planning... I have searched in the Tips n Tools section regarding glueing of helicopter windows prior to painting.There is a lot of information about fixed wing aircraft, but I was looking for what you guys prefer to use to secure your windows before masking? Also, when dipping your windows in Future to protect them, how do you do so without getting that pool at the edge from where your tweezers grasp the part? I apologize if this should be posted elsewhere, but was hoping to get answers from those who specifically build rotorcraft. Thanks in advance. Sincerely, David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shark 64 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Hey Guys,I am finally "building" my first helicopter model, instead of just lurking and planning... I have searched in the Tips n Tools section regarding glueing of helicopter windows prior to painting.There is a lot of information about fixed wing aircraft, but I was looking for what you guys prefer to use to secure your windows before masking? Also, when dipping your windows in Future to protect them, how do you do so without getting that pool at the edge from where your tweezers grasp the part? I apologize if this should be posted elsewhere, but was hoping to get answers from those who specifically build rotorcraft. Thanks in advance. Sincerely, David Hi David Glad to hear you are building your first helo.....Welcome.. As far as Future goes there are several ways to handle future. This is what I do with mine. I understand you might get other modelers to write back with various tips. 1/ The first thing I do is to clean the clear part with eyeglasses cleaner. Next I always leave a piece of small sprue attached to the clear part so that I can handle it with tweezers. Once I dip the part in future I l wipe the extra future(on the edge side) on a piece of paper towel. I let the part dry flat on a some kind of stand making sure that nothing touches that clear part. I usually put the clear part a in box that I can close to keep the dust away. I let it dry for several days before I remove the extra sprue part. From that point on no clear part is handle without gloves(latex). I hope this helps. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hooknladderno1 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Oliver, Thanks for your reply. I took your advice, and dipped all of the "glass" in Future. Shook off the excess, and blotted any remaining Future that pooled at the edge. Set them aside to dry per your suggestion. I also left them on the sprue, so that they wouldn't get marks from the tweezers. When cutting away the sprue, I plan to cut as close to the part as possible. Do you then just file any remaining stub, and apply Future to the bare spot? Sorry for such elementary questions, just want to get it right... Thanks. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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