Hasegawa 1/72 T-33 Shooting Star

[centuryfan]

Hi,

it's been quite a while since my last postings here. Recently I've finished my MA so now I have a bit more time on my hands (you can't search for jobs 24/7). To fill this gap I re-activated a build that I had started about two years ago: Hasegawa's T-33 in 72nd scale. Hasegawa's T-33 is one of their early kits. Nicely done but with no great detail whatsoever and, of course, raised panel lines. Two years ago I had already rescribed all the panel lines. Like that I was now able to pull a T-33 with engraved lines out of my to-do stash which was very good for my motivation

I started with the cockpit where I replaced the kit seats with resin parts from True Details - a major upgrade!

Additionally, I used an old Airwaves PE-set for the instrument boards etc. I think the set was originally designed to be used with the Heller T-33, but with some tweaking it fits the Hasegawa T-Bird, too.

The completed cockpit section was then glued into one fuselage, along with some extra weight in the nose to prevent my T-33 from being a tail-sitter.

After the two fuselage halves had been put together, I had to re-rescribe some of the panel lines at the joints - no big deal:

And last but not least for today, the complete fuselage:

I'm planning to use an old Microscale sheet on my T-33. It has markings for a very attractive Guatemalan T-33, sporting a big shark mouth. Unfortunately, the decal instructions are not very trustworthy concerning the color callouts. For example, they want you to paint the T-33 overall grey - it should be NMF instead. I got this and other valuably pieces of information over at the forums of www.laahs.com, a website that deals with Latin American aviation history.

That's all for now. Next, my T-Bird will get a nice nose job...

[johnsan]

Never see enough T-33 models. Like what you're doing so far.

[Papa Sierra]

nice work waiting for news

[singeri]

very nice...keep posting.

[centuryfan]

Thanks for your comments! Just a quick update here: I completed the nose job. Hasegawa's T-33 nose has almost no panel lines at all on it, so I scribed some according to scale plans. Furthermore I had to add the two guns that are visible on my reference photos of the FAG T-33. Hasegawa's nose is just flush with no gun openings - which is correct for many T-Birds. But I had to drill out one hole on each side and put some stretched Q-tip in it.

Next I'm going to glue the nose and the intakes to the fuselage.

[Sean Bratton]

Great work on your T-bird so far. The work on the cockpit is light years ahead of what's in the kit and should add a lot to the finished model. I'm looking forward to seeing more of this one.

Cheers,

Sean

[dragan_mig31]

nice progress s ofar.where did you get this kit?i am looking for it for years and i can't find it....

[centuryfan]

nice progress s ofar.where did you get this kit?i am looking for it for years and i can't find it....

Thanks!

I bought mine several years ago on ebay. But Sword has announced a new T-33 in 72nd scale. I would rather wait for that one than to buy the old Hasegawa kit. That's also one reason why I'm now hurrying to finish mine: I think my motivation will drop once there's a new kit available.

[centuryfan]

Let's see...I've attached the nose to the fuselage. I didn't use any putty here but there was some sanding involved. The intakes however needed filling as you can see. I tried to make my own putty by dissolving scraped sprue bits in plastic glue. This paste was then smeared into the gaps. You've to pay attention not to use to much glue in order not to dissolve to much of the surrounding model once the paste is applied. The idea is that once it has dried - which takes quite some time - you can work on the filled seam as if it was plastic and not putty (that's because it actually is plastic... :) ) So you don't have to fear crumbling putty...

The insides of the intake areas had already been painted aluminium before they were glued in place. Gloss black was used at the "wall" - that's where the intake would normally go into the fuselage/engine. I use gloss black because it's easier on the eyes. When you're looking at a flat black wall you realize immediately that it's there. A gloss black wall takes a nanosecond longer till your brain has a clue that it's a wall and not a dark black hole leading into the fuselage... At least that's how it's supposed to work.

Next the wings will be glued to the fuselage.

[centuryfan]

The wings are now attached to the fuselage. At the "root" there was some filling required. In order not to spill any putty where it's not needed I first masked around the gap before the putty was applied.

After that the masking tape was drawn off.

During the rescribing process I had slipped several times with the needle, so I had to repair some scratches. I used super glue for this task.

Now I have to mask the canopy before it can be glued to the fuselage. I decided to close the canopy, because it cannot be displayed in the open position without some major plastic surgery (which I just don't feel like doing): Hasegawa's clear canopy part does actually not represent the complete canopy. The rear, solid part of the canopy is molded to the fuselage. At the actual thing this is one piece with the canopy and opens up, too.

Well, masking will be a bit difficult as there are barely any struts visible on the clear part

[ST0RM]

Very nice work on the rescribe job. And in 1/72, it's even more impressive. I'm looking forward to trying out your technique with the plastic scrap and glue filler.

Please keep posting your progress.

[centuryfan]

Thanks Storm!

Well, here's a photo with the masked canopy. It's not glued on yet though. What you can't see: On the inside of the canopy I painted a fine silver brace(?) about there where the aft instrument panel is located. This was visible in the photos that I have of the Guatemalan T-33 I'm building. Some T-33 canopies have this extra inner brace, some do not. I've also installed the True Detail seats. To fit the canopy I had to sand off some millimeters of their bottoms. And you'll notice the horizontal stabilizers are also glued on. The brickwork is done, so to speak :)

Not I have to attach the canopy, fill the unavoidable gaps, and then it's time to paint!

[dragan_mig31]

the t-33 looks great.i love how the cockpit looks

[centuryfan]

Some more progress for you and me I've painted the model with Revell Aqua Color 99 Aluminium after the canopy gaps had been filled and sanded. When the color was dry - and it dries litteraly instantly - I airbrushed a coat of Future.

Next, I drybrushed panel by panel with Revell Enamel 99 Aluminium to give the metal skin some structure. I think NMF surfaces are often a bit too clean on some models as the real thing has scratches and dents from the operational use. At least it's a difference if you want to depict a polished NMF showbird à la Thunderbirds or a plane that is less looked after. But that's only my POV and I already had some debates whether the resulting effect of this drybrushing method is too heavy or not (in fact, I think in this case it may be a bit on the heavy side - but we'll see how it looks after a washing and the final coat of Future).

And here it is after the drybrushing had been completed. Now it's time to paint the black nose and anti glare panels on the tip tanks and the black fin tip.

[centuryfan]

Painting resumes... The masking took so much time that there was none left to take any photos of it Anyway, here's how it looked after the first session where I painted the black nose, fin tip and anti glare panels on the tip tanks. Almost forgot: the panel around the guns was painted in another shade of metal (Revell 91) because that's how it looks on my reference photos.

Next, the anti glare panel in front of the cockpit was painted in a slightly brighter shade of black. And here's also the first "real" color: red. I'll now spray a coat of future and then it's already time to mess up the decal work.

[dragan_mig31]

the painting looks perfect.the masking is great too.i can't wait to see the decals and some weathering.

p.s. i still can't find a 72 t-33 for myself :S

[ByronLeal]

Hi Bernd: I am sending you this picture of an FAG T-33, hopes it helps in your building.

I just do 1/48, but your model looks good!! :)

Byron

Edited August 23, 2009 by ByronLeal

[centuryfan]

@ dragan: Thanks! Wait for the new Sword T-33! I guess that will be easier to get than the old Hasegawa or Heller kits, and, of course, it should have recessed panel lines and more detail (resin parts like Sword's P-80).

@ByronLeal: Thanks for the photo! That's almost exactly the paint scheme I'm going for. The only difference I see is the red fuselage ribbon. My T-33 will have a white-red-white ribbon instead (and it's not FAG 728 but 735).

[pkrasna]

Beautiful work, like your ideas how you made guns and drybrushing the metal structure.

Primož

[centuryfan]

Thanks Primož

The decals are on! The white-red-white ribbon and the shark mouth needed a bit more decal softener, but in the end they worked fine. The only kit decals that I used were the black walkways on the wings. They were very troublesome as they tended to break up into little parts due to their age. In the end I had to do some touch-up work with a fine brush.

Here's an absolutely not staged photo of the decal work :)

And that's how my little Tweety looks with all decals applied. Now it's time for a washing with grey all paint. But before I have - you've already guessed it - to spray on another coat of future...

[Papa Sierra]

excellent work and very good advice

[richter111]

Looks nice!

[centuryfan]

@ Pappa Sierra and richter111: Thanks a lot!

I forgot to mention three little but important details - at least important for my FAG bird: Before I started decaling I painted a red ring around the two gun openings. This is visible in one of the reference photos of FAG 735 I'm using. And, to make this T-33 FAG 735, you have to split up the Microscale decal. Microscale supplies the tail code 753. But over at laahs.com they are sure that there never was a FAG T-Bird labeled 753. So I changed it a bit and now it's 735, of which photos exist. Another painting detail on the nose is the covered second pair of gun openings, behind the open ones.

[dragan_mig31]

:worship: :D :jaw-dropping:

[ReiRei0]

That model is the most attractive FAG I've seen in some time.

You, sir, are the FAG-master. And you can quote me on that.

Edited August 23, 2009 by ReiRei0