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How to dis-assemble model?


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Question is quite simple:

How to take model apart without breaking it too much?

Model was glued using Testors plastic cement, so parts are glued togheter quite good.

I would like to remove wheels (with struts!) and engines (it's a civil bird).

Also, what is a best way to remove (from top to bottom) future, decals, paint?

For Future I would use Windex.

What to do with decals?

Any advice?

Thanks,

Leo.

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Leo,

Did you use the tube cement or the liquid cement? The tube stuff is easier to break apart IMO. In either case, the best bet is to carefully score the joint with your hobby knife until you can either flex the joint loose or until you've cut all the way through. Even with the cement, it's fairly easy, if tedious to re-kit your model.

Once you've gotten it apart, get down to your local auto parts store or Wal-Mart, and get a gallon jug of Super Clean Degreaser. Dump it into a rubbermaid-type container that will fit your largest parts, and drop them in. Let 'em sit about a day or so, and the SCD will dissolve most of the paint and decals away. It's what I swear by when I need to strip something. After your parts have been in a day, use an old toothbrush to lightly scrub the parts, especially in the crevices, then bathe them in lukewarm water and soap.

Only caveat: wear rubber gloves when you use the stuff - it will eat your hand if you don't.

Mike

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If you want to entirely strip the model of paint and take it apart, try brake fluid. I've stripped finished models before using brake fluid and had a bonus of some of the parts separate at the joints. It will also remove putty and not harm clear parts or other plastic parts.

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If you've used tube glue, place the model in a plastic freezer bag and then store it in the freezer overnight. This makes the joins very brittle, and they literally just snap apart with a bit of twisting.

Kev

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i repair and rebuild my old models by using MR.MUSCLE to strip the paint and than verry carefully i dissasemble the kit with a verry sharp modeling knife.i use CA glues all the time.

here is a thread to see how i rebuild a model..

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....hl=dragan_mig31

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Atlant,

To disassemble models I use this stuff called Glue Zapper. It's a clear liquid that smells like fuel oil. I buy it from a place called Classic Hobby (www.classichobby.net) for about $10 bucks a bottle.

Its great stuff. I love it.

For stripping paint, I use old school Easy Off oven cleaner. If you choose to use it, use the regular strength stuff, not the fume free cleaner. Fume free doesn't cut it. Oh yeah, don't forget to wear gloves and eye protection when stripping. Nasty stuff

There are other less offensive products out there that strip old paint and decals just as well. Simple Green comes to mind right now..

HTH,

Cheers, Ian

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Time ago I also used Mr. Muscle to dis-assemble some models.

It works quite good, but has a little problem. It damages clear parts sometimes.

So you must be very carefull with them.

Fischer

i have restored more than 15 models and never mr muscle damaged any clear parts...

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1. Old plastic stored in a freezer really makes those seams POP. Stuffing the model in a big ZipLok bag prior to freezing helps collect all those annoying little bits that drop off unexpectedly.

2. Scalecoat II Wash Away (available in the model railroad section of your LHS) and a good scrub with an old toothbrush will lift just about any paint, clearcoat and/or decal. As a plus, its only half as nasty as brake fluid.

Phil

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how long does the freezer trick take?

Overnight ought to do it.

The freezer trick works because untouched styrene and styrene that has been infused with solvent contract/expand at different rates. The stress this sets up actually weakens the glued bond at the microscopic level. After 12 hours in the freezer, your plastic is about as cold as its ever going to get.

Phil - insert shivering smiley emoticon

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no joy....I had that thing in the freezer for almost a day.....it is just as together as it was before.

I built it using the good old fashion orange tube Testors glue....maybe try something else?

It won't just fall apart, mate...you've got to 'encourage' it. Once it comes out of the freezer, start twisting it gently this way and that, until you feel some of the joints start to give. Once you've opened up a crack here and there, you can start using various tools to pry things apart a bit more. The last model I tried it on came apart in about 10 minutes, with only one (very minor) area of damage.

Kev

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  • 2 years later...

I discovered this by mistake, I placed a old model kit in a bag (it was a anti static bag used for avionics) and sprayed non toxic oven cleaner in there and placed it in the garage. Well I forgot all about it and it sat there all winter long. When I got to it not only did the paint strip after brushing it away, the model literally came apart at all the glue joints!!!! I was so amazed that I used this method several times to take apart old model kits. It came apart with very little damage or none at all sometimes.

It won't just fall apart, mate...you've got to 'encourage' it. Once it comes out of the freezer, start twisting it gently this way and that, until you feel some of the joints start to give. Once you've opened up a crack here and there, you can start using various tools to pry things apart a bit more. The last model I tried it on came apart in about 10 minutes, with only one (very minor) area of damage.

Kev

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  • 1 month later...

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