Softening scribed lines

[Mr Sworld]

I've heard you can 'soften' the resulting lines after you've re-scribed panel lines. How is this done?

I've got a pot of Tamiya extra thin and I presume you just let a little of it pull itself along the panel lines.

Is this how it's done and is Tamiya strong enough?

Many thanks,

Mike

[dragonfly]

Not sure I would call it soften...but I do what you describe to clean out any sanding debri/dust that remains in the panel line. Tamiya extra thin works just fine, but would imagine just about any liquid cement would work. A small spotter brush is helpfull to draw out the liquid cement. Be carefull to stay in the line.

Jerry

[Chorse6]

I'll use laquer thinner on a brush and let capillary action clean them out. Also can use an airbrush with water cranked up to about 30 psi.

As for "softening," you can add some primer or thinned out Mr. Surfacer. Usually, a couple coats of primer will soften them.

[JasonB]

You can also go over them with fine steel wool or fine green scratchy pad to round them off a bit. I prefer steel wool. Brush out any residue with a toothbrush, then I give them a quick 'dressing' of Testors liquid glue to finish them off

[Andy Gudbergsson]

Brush out any residue with a toothbrush, then I give them a quick 'dressing' of Testors liquid glue to finish them off

.

What he said, but I will add, that before I add the Testors liquid glue and after I have brushed out any residue with a toothbrush, I wash the model in warm water and then let it dry in a dust free environment, then apply the Testors liquid glue.

Cheers

Andy G

[thegoodsgt]

Here's my process:

1. Scribe the lines.

2. Lightly sand the surface area with 600 grit sandpaper.

3. Lightly sand the area with fine steel wool.

4. Apply a little liquid cement or lacquer thinner down the length of each panel line (and allow to dry).

5. Lightly sand just the panel lines with fine steel wool.

Usually that suffices. If necessary, a little water worked into the panel lines with a stiff bristle brush will get any remaining residue out.

This is why some people prefer models with recessed panel lines!

[Mr Sworld]

This is why some people prefer models with recessed panel lines!

I know.... However I wanted to do it on my Airfix 1/48 Hurricane Mk1 for the experience! :D

Thanks for all the tips guys.

Kudos, as ever,

Mike

[TXCajun]

Here's my process:

1. Scribe the lines.

2. Lightly sand the surface area with 600 grit sandpaper.

3. Lightly sand the area with fine steel wool.

4. Apply a little liquid cement or lacquer thinner down the length of each panel line (and allow to dry).

5. Lightly sand just the panel lines with fine steel wool.

Usually that suffices. If necessary, a little water worked into the panel lines with a stiff bristle brush will get any remaining residue out.

This is why some people prefer models with recessed panel lines!

After scribing but before the glue treatment, I clean out the re-scribed lines with a soft toothbrush under running water. That way, if there's a goober in the scribed area, it doesn't melt back to fill in the line.

[MarkW]

I'm curious--exactly what is the point of all this? Is it remove pushed aside styrene or something?

Thanks!

[JasonB]

When you scribe a line, it produces a shaving of plastic, and the edge of the line is sharp and sometimes a little ragged. Hand scribing doesn't produce a 100 percent even result. The sanding/steel wool and clean up treatment removes the burrs and shavings and smooths out some of the imperfections, and the application of a dressing of glue lightly melts the surface around the line, and the line itself, back into a smooth, shiny surface that more closely matches the factory lines. You can also polish the plastic with an appropriate plastic polish to achieve some of the same results of applying the glue. A raw, unrefine panel line will be apparent when its right next to a molded panel line.

[caudleryan]

This is why some people prefer models with recessed panel lines!

Hmm, you should try rescribing a Monogram B-36 like I am. That will put some hair on your chest!

I used the glue method on the B-36 and it worked really well. Below are some pics of where I applied Tamiya extra thin cement into the panel lines after I cleaned them out with a toothberush. I hope you can see them alright as I don't have the best camera for stuff like this.

I had just scribed these panel lines when I took this pic.

RYAN.

[khmerog]

Hey JasonB, why cant some just use a needle or a nail to scribe lines? I just bought this "pen wih a sharp metal point". Im just wonderong whats difference between -this tool i have or a needle or a nail- AND an actual scribing tool?

[Andy Gudbergsson]

Here's my process:

1. Scribe the lines.

2. Lightly sand the surface area with 600 grit sandpaper.

3. Lightly sand the area with fine steel wool.

4. Apply a little liquid cement or lacquer thinner down the length of each panel line (and allow to dry).

5. Lightly sand just the panel lines with fine steel wool.

Usually that suffices. If necessary, a little water worked into the panel lines with a stiff bristle brush will get any remaining residue out.

This is why some people prefer models with recessed panel lines!

What he said. And what I said. Works perfectly.

Cheers :)

Andy G.

Edited September 9, 2009 by Andy Gudbergsson

[MarkW]

I use a slightly different process, and while I do remove the raised ridge, I've rarelyly needed to smooth out the interior of the trench. Usually if I mess that up, I'll end up filling in the line with superglue/talc and rescribe.

Here's my process:

1. Lightly scribe the lines using the back of a #10 blade or the back of an Olfa design knife blade with the tip broken off. Depends on the profile I need.

2. Lightly sand the surface area with sandpaper.

3. Lightly rescribe 1-2 passes--truly feather light touches--to clean out the debris left by the sanding.

Unless I am dealing with some truly aweful moldings where the styrene has set up with a "grain", for lack of better words, this is more than enough to produce even lines indistinguishable from the kit lines.

Just an alternative...