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It depends. I usually just go ahead and paint if it's flat pain. If it's gloss I paint it flat first. Like I faint flat white then yellow or gloss black then silver. It all depends on the situation. A primer coat helps find flaws you would other wise be paintitn your finish coat onto.

Curt

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Hi, Skully

I know yould like to have a definitive answer, but nothing is definitive, and much more in modeling.

Try to read this topic

Besides, if you brush-paint, priming isn't so necessary as if you air-brush.

Tamiya rattle can (gray or white) is for me "definitve" the best and expencive too.

Euge

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Have to agree that if you are going to prime, then as suggested above, Tamiya rattle can primers are great. Do you have to prime? No. I like to at times to find flaws and I will shoot some Tamiya primer for that. I also will prime areas that I paint white.

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... usually with Mr. Surfacer 1200.

If I prime, I use Mr. Surfacer 1200 or Tamiya Fine Surface primer. I will prime a model if I am planning on applying the topcoat directly to this layer. With WWII aircraft, I like to apply metalizer to the bare plastic, clear coat, and then top coat so that I can then do paint chipping by picking off the top coat to expose the underlying metal (unless the structure is made of wood!). With modern AC, AFV, and game figures, I usually prime all of these.

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Hi, Skully

I know yould like to have a definitive answer, but nothing is definitive, and much more in modeling.

Try to read this topic

Besides, if you brush-paint, priming isn't so necessary as if you air-brush.

Tamiya rattle can (gray or white) is for me "definitve" the best and expencive too.

Euge

Hey! I asked that question sometime ago. I would definitely recommend priming, if the bare plastic is molded in a dark color, it will take lesser coats of paint if u paint on a primed surfaced, compared to painting on bare plastic where it will take more coats.

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