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how do you make it? can you upload some pics of this "putty" you use. thanks man.

all you do is put small cut pieces of sprue into a small jar of like testors liquid cement. wait a while, i waited about 3 hours for mine to fully melt. all the plastic sprue pieces you put in will melt from the cement.

or take and pour a small amount of the liquid cement into a small jar, i use the small 1/4 oz ones. drop in your sprue pieces and wait. then when its "cured", and all melted ,just dab on a sink hole or whatever and it fills it right up and melts into the surrounding plastic. Then sand and you cant even tell the difference, unlike with putty

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After the sprue pieces melt completely, do you have to stir the putty/cement mixture at all? I've thought about doing what you did and I've read about it being used here on this forum. I wonder how long the putty mixture is good for (shelf life)?

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Steve (SBARC) put this up tip a while back see his technique. After getting into the ARC mainpage, go to > Tools n Tips, then to > Filling, then to repairing plastic, here you will see how he shaves the plastic the amount of glue he uses. The whole process from start to finish (including applying it to a kit and the results :tease::moai: .

Edited by Angels49
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After the sprue pieces melt completely, do you have to stir the putty/cement mixture at all? I've thought about doing what you did and I've read about it being used here on this forum. I wonder how long the putty mixture is good for (shelf life)?

I have a small jar i made up of it last Saturday. And i was gone all week and came back and the stuff was still ok. I made a fairly big batch of it, and so far its still good.

Like this one poster said. their might be air bubbles in it after you sand it down, but nothing a small swipe of regular putty can take care of. This method is really good also if you have a deep sink hole and you want to fill it up.

When i made mine. i just cut the sprue pieces up small and put them in the jar, poured a little cement in, enough to cover them up and let it sit. although the curiosity got the best of me, and ocassionally i went back and stirred it a few times.

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It is great method indeed. I use number 11 knife, and then chop up small pieces from the sprue. The sprue should be from the same kit as the one you are putting on the putty on. I use tamya thin glue to make it into a putty. Just remember, when you think you have enough of small bits of sprue, you don't. Chop up more than you think you will need. Here is an example of the use of that method:

Before:

Su-24M002.jpg

Su-24M005.jpg

After:

Su-24M009.jpg

Su-24M010.jpg

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I've only tried it once or twice, but never got it to work---I always ended up with soft, sticky bits of plastic swimming in cement----not "liquid plastic".

That is obviously because the bits are to thick. You should cut them to make them paper thin, or thinner.

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I've done this as well, I just get a long straight piece of sprue and shave it with a hobby knife. Take the shavings and grind them up with my fingers and add glue till I'm happy with what I have. It' pretty fast this way, I've been able to make a small batch up within 2 minutes for emergency repairs.

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I've done a slightly different method of using "liquid plastic putty." I put stretched sprue over the gap, then just glue it down until it's pretty much flat. That works too.

Ha, I thought I was the only one who did that!

Kev

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I am a model railroader and have been using this technique for a few years now. I made up a one ounce jar of this stuff using Testors liquid cement as the solvent back in 2005, and I'm using the same jar today! I mixed several different sprue shavings with no adverse effects or reaction (the were all the same type of plastic), and the overall color was gray.

They only disclaimer I must give is that if you have a fairly large or deep hole to patch, you'll have to let it cure for a few days so that the solvent has a chance to evaporate all the way out of the plastic. Be dissolving the plastic in the solven it becomes higly saturated and will remain soft days after application. Thin repairs can be sanded within and hour or less.

Donnell

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