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Resin vs. Photo-etch Fins


Resin vs. Photo-etch Fins  

24 members have voted

  1. 1. Which do you prefer?

    • Photo-etch (no trimming of resin)
      19
    • Resin fins cast integral to body
      5


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Gents:

I'm looking at additional subjects for the Spectre Resins line. These weapon shapes have fins that can't be cast as the real deal. The cast in place resin fins would require the modeler to shape the fin as shown in the sketch. The modeler would only need to locate and glue the phot-etched ones.

The costs:

Photo-etch and resin body about $9.50for two shapes in a package.

Resin body and fins about $6.00.

B43comparisonwithnotes.jpg

Mark

Edited by Mark S.
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it would be far easier for me to glue on the fins than to "back cut file" without nicking the shape's body (ack, and then fill, let dry, and try again?,,,,no way, lol)

nice to see that subject coming someday, too

and if you do Mk 7's someday, use separate fins there too, 3 deployed, and one folded

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Hi! That was one problem I had with resin fins, even if they are seperate from the main body. Usually theyre molded too thick, and despite being softer than PE, its a chore to file/shave off excess.. and to do that well. What would be nice is if the fins themselves were made from some thin PE. Additionally sharpening of leading edges etc could be done and is certainly a treat - but its an extra expense. Tiny tiny resin "feet" could be added at the base of the fins for those that have them (Aim-9l/m) - but its so small... im not sure how many people would actually care. For rivet counters, maybe...

Just some thoughts, hope this helps. My votes in already :thumbsup:

Thanks for the post!

David

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My first thought was that I would rather do the cutting myself and save a few dollars, IF the fins are able to be molded thin enough for accurate thickness. But then I realized some schmuck like me is gonna try the quick method and use a sprue cutter or other side nipper to cut the notch and POP, the whole fin will crack right off the body. There won't be enough material there to withstand the forces that are going to get applied to it one way or another. Better to go with photo etch.

Rick L.

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How about you include little dimples in the resin where the fins should be, and corresponding "pegs" on the PE fins? Modelers could drill locating holes, and have a positive location for the fins. AND, you could include a resin jig to make sure everything's at right angles.

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