POMPEO Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 nice looking Sabre, i had one academy kit build in this version, your job are great cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 This is the excellent Hasegawa kit with Eduard photoetch and decals by Superscale and Aeromaster. Paints are Alclad II, Testor's Metalizer, and Testor's Model Master. What are you using to light your models for that superb photography? Thanks, Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 This is beautiful. Fantastic decal job over the nmf. Did you future at all or flat coat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gambler Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 WOW, I missed this one! What a beautiful piece of modelling, ....absolutetly superb! ;) Cheers, Jeff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sting Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L !!!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CrowTRobot Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 This is beautiful. Fantastic decal job over the nmf. Did you future at all or flat coat? Thank you. I applied the decals over a coat of 100% Future, then I sealed everything with a Future/Tamiya Clear Flat Base mixture to tone it down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CrowTRobot Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 What are you using to light your models for that superb photography? Thanks, but all credit goes to the camera- not the operator. The lights were 3 ordinary incandescent bulbs- (2) 100 watt and (1) 60 watt. I used a couple of articulated lamp fixtures plus one of those clamp-on fixtures with the big sliver reflectors that you can find at the hardware store. I did adjust the white-balance of the camera to compensate for the incandescent lighting. This makes a big difference as pictures turn out too dingy and yellowish otherwise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Wow very nice mate!!! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blunce Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 DAAAYYYYUUUMMMM!! That's beautiful! How did you go about the decals and stencils over the Alclad? Did you use any future before decaling? Or is it all dry rub transfers and painted artwork? Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CrowTRobot Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 (edited) DAAAYYYYUUUMMMM!! That's beautiful! Thanks! How did you go about the decals and stencils over the Alclad? Did you use any future before decaling? I applied the decals over a coat of 100% Future, then I sealed everything with a Future/Tamiya Clear Flat Base mixture to tone it down. Or is it all dry rub transfers and painted artwork? Therein lies a tale of woe. The wing walk markings are dry transfers, but everything else is a decal (except for the yellow FEAF bands- they're painted). I had a sheet of HobbyDecal dry transfer F-86F stencils, but I quickly discovered that dry transfers + NMF + Future = disaster. Dry transfers adhere best to a dead-flat finish. When I tried applying them to my glossy model I found I had to burnish the bejeezus out of them to get them to stick. The vigorous burnishing damaged the Alclad and caused it to lift when I removed the backing film. I wasn't about to flat coat my model just to get the transfers to stick 'cause I didn't think I'd be able to restore the finish when I was done. I ditched the dry transfers and used a sheet of Aeromaster stencil decals instead. Anyone want a slightly used set of HobbyDecal dry transfers for an F-86? Edited November 14, 2009 by CrowTRobot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blunce Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Hmm, she looks damn good considering you got Future on there. I was afraid to put Future on my P-47N (recently posted here), so I painted everything and used dry transfers except the nose art. The finish was smooth enough to lay down the decals without first putting down future. But I wanted to protect them, and sprayed them with a bit of flat Future. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CrowTRobot Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 I was afraid to put Future on my P-47N (recently posted here), so I painted everything and used dry transfers except the nose art. Did you have any trouble applying the dry transfers to bare Alclad? I was afraid the action of burnishing would damage the paint. Alclad is pretty smooth to begin with, but I guess it has more "tooth" than Future. This was my first experience with dry transfers, and if I had known about their affinity for flat finishes I may have approached the project differently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rocat Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 great work. realistic painting. bravo! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blunce Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Did you have any trouble applying the dry transfers to bare Alclad? I was afraid the action of burnishing would damage the paint. Alclad is pretty smooth to begin with, but I guess it has more "tooth" than Future. This was my first experience with dry transfers, and if I had known about their affinity for flat finishes I may have approached the project differently. None at all, a few needed a bit more convincing than others, but generally they went on like a dream. (also my first experience w/dry transfers. I really like em though!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary.Wickham Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 One word. Inspirational Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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