Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 (edited) Hey dudes, Pressing on with the intake stuff-I opened up both access panels and threw some details in there. Here's the right side so far. Some of this stuff is attached to the support frame, and some to the intake. Getting it to all line up and fit was fun. That center strut needs to come out and be re-done. That is just not in straight or cut straight.. :) The Aires nose wheel well is too short-Also, the way the Aires part is molded prevents you from locating the nose gear strut using Tamiya's nice positive locking setup. To remedy both problems, I cut off the Tamiya nose well frame just aft of the strut locating point and grafted it onto the Aires part that I also cut. A length of strip hides the awkward junction of the two parts I also started detailing the nose gear strut- And continue to skin the spine- More to follow in a day or two-Thanks for looking! Pig Edited October 23, 2009 by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skyking Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 *Sticking a 3 x 5 card to my forehead and giving my best "Great Karnak" impersonation...* I see another future Judges Best In Show in the works. Great looking work so far Pete. Whatcha gonna do this one as? Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 ~gasps audibly~ Staggering Pig, just staggering...... :D Looking mighty fine......(again ;) ) The fact that you've converted more than one of these big Tammy Vipers blows my mind. The fact that you've managed that task so effortlessly has me totally in awe :lol: Great job buddy. Thanks for taking the time to remind everyone of your intake painting technique too, it certainly gives superb results. I'd love to have a big spine, two seat Viper on my shelf fitted out with CFTs but I'm not bold enough to start hacking up a £100 kit. I'll have to wait until Tamiya bring out their version but, in the mean time, I'll continue to enjoy your excellent build up. Keep up the great work ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony in NZ Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Pete, you sir are truly an artist when it comes to everything modelling. I am constantly impressed with the work you do and how you teach us along the way. Cheers Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Very nice start, Pete! You certainly are the F-16 maestro. How many F-16's do you have in your finished collection? Cheers, Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) How many F-16's do you have in your finished collection?Cheers, Marcel Hi Marcel- this is number 6 for 32nd scale. I haven't built a 48th scale Viper in a long time-Some day! Hey Skyking-If you go up a few posts, Chuck posted a picture of the UAE block 60F. It'll look alot like the Polish jet you saw at ROCON, but with a few differences unique to the block 60.. Geedub, Anthony, Jin, Gregg, Aigore, Holmes...All you guys-Thanks for the encouragement! Posting these pictures helps me too-It's amazing how different your work looks when photographed. I thought the detail in the open panel looked OK until I saw the photos and then I was like "eee-gads!" So you get to see the warts and blemishes too... Regards, Pig Edited October 24, 2009 by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jester292 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Still looks sweet though, give us more! Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fireman Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 It's not fair, Pete!!! Not fair to do ANOTHER great masterpiece in progress. Jees, I whas gone for some months, but this this...I'm back again and following your tips and great scalling skills. Keep up the good work m8!! Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
agelos2005 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Pete always a pleasure to follow your builds! Just AMAZING!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) Wow this is one amazing build!! I have a 1/32 tamiya F-15 but always wanted the F-16. I think you have just inspired me to get it! David (I like this edit thing!) I just read that you have done more of these. do you have pictures? Edited October 25, 2009 by dpwatson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 (edited) Hey dudes- ..This looks a little better. The intakes aft of the access panels are from the Isra Sufa set- There is some new panel scribing and some rivets that you'll need to accomplish with these vents-You'll also need to fill those tiny aux-air intake doors (the "D" shaped ones) as these aren't on the block 60- It is really easy to forget to install the intake strut..I usually write a reminder on the top of the the intake with a Gunze paint marker-I'll see that before I glue-up the intake assembly. Don't ask how I know this...The little hole in the forward strake above the intake is an attachment point for an intake screen. FYI & often a missed tiny detail... So this is about ready to assemble and fit to the Aires main wheel well- Pig Edited October 27, 2009 by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 . Pig Amazing as always Pig. I'll be very interested in how you attach that front lip to the intake above. On the one hand it's much easier to paint it separately and then attach it later since it's a darker color, but on the other hand the join gap can be rough and ugly. As an aside, I also learned the hard way to be careful fitting the bottom intake to the upper fuselage. I put lots of pressure on it to make it fit, but I wound up breaking that central intake splitter by compressing the intake too much. BTW, What exactly do you mean when you say you are "skinning the spine"? It sure looks like a lot of picky work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Amazing as always Pig. I'll be very interested in how you attach that front lip to the intake above. On the one hand it's much easier to paint it separately and then attach it later since it's a darker color, but on the other hand the join gap can be rough and ugly. As an aside, I also learned the hard way to be careful fitting the bottom intake to the upper fuselage. I put lots of pressure on it to make it fit, but I wound up breaking that central intake splitter by compressing the intake too much. BTW, What exactly do you mean when you say you are "skinning the spine"? It sure looks like a lot of picky work. Hey Chuck! I've always had good luck getting that intake ring to just drop in-Hopefully this time will go smoothly too! Regarding the spine, rather than scribe the resin spine, I find it easier in this case to make a thin outer shell on the vac form machine, then cut out each individual panel from that shell, and attach it to the resin spine. The spine will end up being .007 or so thicker in all dimensions. The panel lines that result are very thin. The sheet styrene is much easier to rivet than the resin. Most times I simply push the rivets in with my scribing tool, then sand away the resulting "volcano" rim that you get when you push vs. drill the rivets. I'm also able to get a nice stressed skin effect by riveting the panels off the model on a sheet of balsa. The soft balsa underneath the styrene gives just enough to "quilt" the plastic around the rivet. I don't do this on every panel, just those on the spine that display a little oil can around the rivets. The viper is a pretty tight airframe, and doesn't typically show any quilting around the rivets other than the spine- HTH Pig Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonB Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 It is really easy to forget to install the intake strut..I usually write a reminder on the top of the the intake with a Gunze paint marker-I'll see that before I glue-up the intake assembly. Don't ask how I know this...Pig Yeah, one reason my Sufa build has been relegated to the back burner..forgot to intall the support before attaching the intake to the fuselage. So I thought I might be able to drill out the cockpit floor where the rear seat would cover the hole and gain access to it that way. No go. Because of the angle, I would have to drill a hole right about where the back seaters feet would rest on the floor, and I'm not going there! My current mental state doesn't allow me to attempt to insert the support down the intake,because if I mess it up, the bird is gonna take flight. "Serenity now"... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Awesome work Pete! Wish I can make my intake as flawless as yours......I´m seriously scared about it! @Jason Sorry to hear, Jason....was starting to wonder when the next update was due. :( Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rafael Winter Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Awesome Pete... you always inspire me... cheers Rafael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Amazing work man. Great work. Love the scratch building. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OldGuy Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Amazing work as always Pete! I'm ready to paint the intake on my block 50 and I'm going to try the paint dump method. I just have a small question if you don't mind. Does the paint fill in the mounting holes for the intake strut and if so how do you clean it out without messing up the surrounding paint. TIA. Tommy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eastern Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Amazing job, Pete! Nice scratchwork and tnx for very useful tips! Cheers and happy modeling! Alexander. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 Amazing work as always Pete! I'm ready to paint the intake on my block 50 and I'm going to try the paint dump method. I just have a small question if you don't mind. :lol: Does the paint fill in the mounting holes for the intake strut and if so how do you clean it out without messing up the surrounding paint. TIA.Tommy No Tommy, you should be OK- I stick a spot of clay in the hole that the strut goes through (from behind) and take it out right away after the paint runs out the back...before the paint dries. If it covers over with paint, just blow some air on it from behind before it dries and it'll clear- HTH Pig Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Youngtiger1 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Pete, what can I add to what already has been said and done. You sure know how to build F-16s. I really think you should let someone cast your parts because I think you can make a lot of us happy. Wouldn't you like to see that? Oh please, Viper God bestow upon us mortal modellers the gift of building a 2 seat Viper. We really want a F-16B/D in 1/32. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 (edited) Hello Gents- Work progresses on the intake. The large vents are from the Isracast Sufa set. Some rescribing was needed to match my reference photos. I also moved an access panel and added some rivets: Smashing away on the spine too. The vents are built up from U shaped styrene rod and sheet. More adjustment needed here, but getting there- The block 60 has the ACES II seats with the folding pitot booms. These are the kit items, modified with fuzzy seat covers, folding pitots, and lead foil straps. Note that the seat for the rear cockpit has the data recorder on the left side removed- The Block 60 has formation strip lights all over the airframe. They are mounted on odd shaped panels. Here you can see the panel for the vertical tail-mounted formation light from sheet. These were sanded to a curved contour on a sheet of glass prior to attaching. The RHAW extension on the top of the tail is longer on the block 60. A plug was inserted and blended to shape. Also, the RHAW antenna that was lost during the seam clean-up was replaced with a punched-out disc of .010 sheet- Thanks for looking- Pig Edited November 6, 2009 by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Breathtaking detailing, Pete! Inspireing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I love seeing your step by step progress Pig, which has inspired me to try the same in my build. It's the picky details that make the difference and it's great to learn how you achieve perfection. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Lovely work Pete!! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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