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sounds like a certain type of movie script....

Ever notice how the music is always the same in those movies? And why does the gardener need to come inside for a drink of water? Can't he drink from the hose?

Does the battery have any stencil data on the real thing?

David

Hi David,

Yes, it does. This is the "old Style" battery, and not totally accurate for the block 60..but at least I got the color right! I'll use the Tamiya stencils for the battery and strut assemblies after a gloss coat

Regards,

Pig

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Nice going, Pete! :worship: Looks fantastic already.

sounds like a certain type of movie script....

Ever notice how the music is always the same in those movies? And why does the gardener need to come inside for a drink of water? Can't he drink from the hose?

Sherry in 'Logjammin': [on video] You must be here to fix the cable.

Maude Lebowski: Lord. You can imagine where it goes from here.

The Dude: He fixes the cable?

Maude Lebowski: Don't be fatuous, Jeffrey.

:worship:

Edited by ChernayaAkula
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Hey Gents,

Snip

I wrote a reminder to myself to make sure I dont forget to install the compressor face before I glue this sucker in

SDC11170.jpg

Thanks for looking!

Pig

Lurked on these builds for quite some time. Fantastic (and brave) build.

A question: I see you did the pour method on the rear section of intake seperately from the forward section... how do you handle the inevitable seam when you join the two halves together?

Thanks.

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A question: I see you did the pour method on the rear section of intake seperately from the forward section... how do you handle the inevitable seam when you join the two halves together?

Thanks.

Great question!

I accept the fact that there will be a seam, and dry-fit as best I can. If using the Tamiya parts vs. the Aires, I think you could clean up the intake its entire length. The fit on the Aires is just too rough, and requires a lot of adjustment to ensure the jet isn't "leaning". Taking the lesser of 2 evils approach, I'd rather ensure the jet is straight by ensuring proper alignment of the gear bay (which affects the main gear struts) This can really only be done by being able to rotate the gear well about the longitudinal axis of the model. If it were glued to the forward section of the intake, all bets are off. Plus,when viewing the model, alignment is much easier to notice than the intake seam, which requires ducking down and craning your neck to get a peek down the intake-

Not perfect, but I've had good luck so far!

Regards,

Pig

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I'm speechless.

:soapbox:

When I go to heaven, I hope to be able to do something like this... there's no way I'll do it in my lifetime!

I wish I'd read that comment/concern about leaning (due to wheel well rotation) before doing my 1:32 Academy Viper. Bit me big-time.

ALF

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Hey Pig,

All of your builds are an inspiration. I put you "up there" with John Wolstenholme and Guy (geedubelyer), which is saying a LOT! What I really enjoy about all of your builds is all the detailed instructions on what and what not to do. I've done the Tamiya F-16CJ before so I know the pitfalls and therefore I know for a fact, you are a Master Builder! Keep it up Man!- and thanks for all your pics of your progress. I'll never be able to accomplish what you do, but it's fun to think I could.

Anyway, you really have to tackle the Tamiya F-14. These Vipers are very cool, but C'MON, you need at least one Tomcat in your arsenal! I'll stay tuned with hope an Air Force guy would turn "Navy".

Edited by chuck540z3
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Pete,

In the photo below, the demarcation line is deeper in color than the body of the camouflage. Each time I see this technique posted I am curious as to how it's done, and, would like to try it out.

SDC11154.jpg

Could you tell me your technique to make the demarcation line deeper in color than the camouflage body.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Pete,

In the photo below, the demarcation line is deeper in color than the body of the camouflage. Each time I see this technique posted I am curious as to how it's done, and, would like to try it out.

SDC11154.jpg

Could you tell me your technique to make the demarcation line deeper in color than the camouflage body.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

Sure Mark!

Really easy-

First, spray the lighter color first with no mask...Just lay it down roughly where it's supposed to go.Then for the dark, I use Blue Tac to mask the demarcation between light and dark colors. Roll the Blue Tac into a thin sausage and run it along the demarcation line. Then, load up some Grimy Black and pre-shade the demarcation line-ie spray right up against the Blue Tac mask with the black on the same side as the darker grey will go. Leave the mask in place and let the pre-shading dry, then load up the dark grey and spray it, treating the pre-shaded demarcation line just like you would treat any other pre-shaded panel; spray over it with the grey, just let a little of the black show through-

That's it-

HTH

Pig

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When I go to heaven, I hope to be able to do something like this... there's no way I'll do it in my lifetime!

ALF

ALF, you are a fighter pilot-You can do anything!

Hey Pig,

. I put you "up there" with John Wolstenholme and Guy (geedubelyer)

Whoo- That's some fast company right there! I've learned a ton from both of them, plus they are true gentlemen-

Hornet looks awesome BTW!!

Regards,

Pig

Edited by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann
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Thank you very much Pete!

As always, I admire your work, skill, and your sharing nature.

I have something to share with you and your peers. To me, you, John W., and there are others here and on other boards who remind me of the Mercedes Benz. Every year when their new cars come out I think Wow! How can they top that design? But every year they seem to do so.

The work you and your peers do and share on this and other forums is like that to me. Wow! How can they top that?

But with each succeeding effort, they do.

Many thanks to all of you who share and inspire the rest of us with your efforts.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Up to your usual high standards I see Pete. Great work. Excellent job at picking out the details. As I told Guy below, you and him amaze me at your ability to pick out these tiny details and make them look like they were seperate parts, and not just painted on. I get near a paint brush anything smaller than 000 and I break out into hives. I don't have the steady hand for that detailwork anymore. One reason I stick to these old crates. There's less "stuff" to deal with..lol.

Keep the updates coming.

Cheers

Mike

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Many thanks to all of you who share and inspire the rest of us with your efforts.

Sincerely,

Mark

Thanks to you too Mark for the kind words!

I get near a paint brush anything smaller than 000 and I break out into hives.

Cheers

Mike

Ar you sure that's from a small brush? Maybe you are allergic to those chinchillas?

Anyhoo-

I've started noodling with the aft cockpit. I've decided to just go with the Isra pit vs. trying to guess what the back cockpit of the block 60 might look like-If you aren't aware, there are no images available of the secret-squirrle back cockpit...

SDC11223.jpg

SDC11224.jpg

Also started messing a bit with the front cockpit. The vents on the aft bulkhead need a little modification:

SDC11226.jpg

Here are the sidewalls for the front cockpit. You guys have seen this trick before-The sections of sheet plastic in the recesses hide some nasty ejector-pin marks that are impossible to remove

SDC11227.jpg

Not very exciting, but that's all I've got for now-Thanks for looking!

Pig

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Pete your finishing skills are second to none. Care to elaborate on the paints and thinners you use? You seem to be able to get such a smooth demarcation line between colours. Any retardants involved at all?

Well thanks Jake!

Well, lessee- I use the manufacturers thinner to get the paint about the consistency of milk, and add one drop of Windsor & Newtons painting medium per airbrush cup. Fine needle in the Iwata Eclipse with crown cap off, and whatever PSI works on that day given the atmospherics..

I shoot either MM enamels or Floquil enamels (Floquil is my favorite)

The demarcations are simply a product of using Blue Tac for the feathered mask between colors-

HTH

Pig

Edited by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann
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Pete,

if I may consider it, there is another way to get rid of the ejector pin marks on the cockpit sidewalls and get an even better result: Just sand the sidewalls on the backside with some coarse sanding stick until you have reduced the part by the thickness of the back walls and the glue sone thin sheet stock to the back and voila.... bye bye pin marks.

HTH,

Joerg

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Pete,

if I may consider it, there is another way to get rid of the ejector pin marks on the cockpit sidewalls and get an even better result: Just sand the sidewalls on the backside with some coarse sanding stick until you have reduced the part by the thickness of the back walls and the glue sone thin sheet stock to the back and voila.... bye bye pin marks.

HTH,

Joerg

Now you tell me~!

Pig

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