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For the first time ever, I tried Mr. Surfacer (I know, I know, how did I do without it all these years?). It was the 1200 version.

If I told you that - when I sprayed Mr. Surfacer today (at about 12lbs), it behaved like I was a movie special effects guy and was creating a scene for a horror picture, where the room required cobwebs everywhere, would you know what I'm talking about? I mean it was a cobweb spinning free-for-all.

Too much air pressure? Anyone else experience this?

Larry

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No thinner. Tried it straight from the bottle. I don't have any lacquer thinner.

Paint thinner didn't work, alcohol didn't work, acrylic thinner didn't work, acryilic cleaner didn't work, nail polish remover didn't work.

I see a trip tp the hardware store coming...

Thanks guys. Thought i was seeing things for awhile there!

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Larry,

Everyone is wrong.

You are now Spiderman. Don't deny the gift you have been given. Spinning webs can be useful and helps when swinging from buildings.

Go forth and do good for humanity!

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Do you think I can use regular lacquer thinner to thin 1200? I have a Klean-Strip brand lacquer thinner I got from Home Depot. Will that work? I see people tend to use Gunze's levelling thinner (which I have no access to) so I shyed away from 1200.
Regular lacquer thinner will do just fine.
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Larry,

Everyone is wrong.

You are now Spiderman. Don't deny the gift you have been given. Spinning webs can be useful and helps when swinging from buildings.

Go forth and do good for humanity!

Ahhh! It all makes sense now! My growing interest in flies, my silk undies... my recurring nightmare of a giant shoe stepping on me...

I'll change my screen name to Arachnidman.

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Trying using Surfacer 1000, it gives better results in a way. Thinning is a must and with lacquer thinner is the only way..50:50 ratio and if it stills spins webs...pour the mixture back into the jar and try again. For initial, spray at the edge of a newspaper or something, it will show the mixture is good or not...or its "Welcome Spidey!!!" :taunt:

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I love Mr Surfacer 1200, and Mr base white too. I use Mr leveling thinner, and you might want to order some Mr Retarder too, as even thinned Mr Surfacer can create cobwebs that the Mr. Retarder calms down.

DaveT

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OK, having been around the block a time or two with Mr Surfacer, I'll give you the lowdown.

Firstly, if you're using the stuff out of the jar, it has to be thinned. Secondly, only lacquer-based thinners are really effective with it. However, there's a caveat. Hardware store-grade lacquer thinners are not created equal. It's very important to understand this, or you could end up cursing every second piece of advice you get about thinning Mr Surfacer. Some guys swear by their local generic lacquer thinner as being perfect for the job, but these products are not all the same. The stuff I have access to only stops the spider-webbing when the thinning ratio reaches about 5:1. By then it's too thin to be useful for anything except runs and splatters.

My world changed instantly when I tried using Gunze's own thinners (in my case, Mr Color Thinner). I can now thin at around 50/50 quite happily, though a little more is better. You can use the standard thinner or the Levelling thinner - it doesn't really matter. If your pressure is too high or your mix too thin, you'll get billowing clouds of noxious vapour instead of spider-webbing, but it'll still go on fine.

A final note. For priming large areas (like a completed airframe for example), the stuff goes on gloriously straight out of the rattle can, thereby saving you the hassle of airbrushing it. It absolutely must be done outside though!

Kev

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I'm the same as Big_Kev. If I'm doing a large area I will use the rattle can because it's super easy. For smaller parts like subassemblies, airbrushing gives better control. I think all the advice you've gotten here already about thinning is going to help you out a lot.

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I love Mr Surfacer 1200, and Mr base white too. I use Mr leveling thinner, and you might want to order some Mr Retarder too, as even thinned Mr Surfacer can create cobwebs that the Mr. Retarder calms down.

DaveT

I have acrylic retarder. Will that work on its own?

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OK, having been around the block a time or two with Mr Surfacer, I'll give you the lowdown.

Firstly, if you're using the stuff out of the jar, it has to be thinned. Secondly, only lacquer-based thinners are really effective with it. However, there's a caveat. Hardware store-grade lacquer thinners are not created equal. It's very important to understand this, or you could end up cursing every second piece of advice you get about thinning Mr Surfacer. Some guys swear by their local generic lacquer thinner as being perfect for the job, but these products are not all the same. The stuff I have access to only stops the spider-webbing when the thinning ratio reaches about 5:1. By then it's too thin to be useful for anything except runs and splatters.

My world changed instantly when I tried using Gunze's own thinners (in my case, Mr Color Thinner). I can now thin at around 50/50 quite happily, though a little more is better. You can use the standard thinner or the Levelling thinner - it doesn't really matter. If your pressure is too high or your mix too thin, you'll get billowing clouds of noxious vapour instead of spider-webbing, but it'll still go on fine.

A final note. For priming large areas (like a completed airframe for example), the stuff goes on gloriously straight out of the rattle can, thereby saving you the hassle of airbrushing it. It absolutely must be done outside though!

Kev

Thanks Kev. I'll give it a try.

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Rattle can my man, I am a recent convert. Try Gunze or even Tamiya. I have the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and it is awesome. I am sure the gunze is just as good but the key here is....RATTLECAN!

i think I'm getting the message here. I'll put the rattle can on the shopping list!

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