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A good modeling putty


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Hey folk, I've been using squadron whity for my seem filling, I'm not the biggest fan. I find it tp be a pain in the butt to work with. Seems to dry very quickly which makes it very hard to work with, it get's all dry and gritty and doesnt want to fill seams easily being that it doesnt stay plyable very long at all. I've been using nail polish remover w/acetone to help with that but it's still a pain. Is there something better? Mr. surfacer perhaps, do they have a putty specifically? I've used shaved styrene mixed with liquid cement before for bigger seams but this can get sloppy. Just looking for something better is all.

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Bondo spot galzing putty. Just like you'd use on the old '83 Camaro! A $6 tube at the auto parts store will last about 2 years. The q-tip w/ nail polish remover trick works so incredibly well with this putty.

I also like Mr. Surfacer 500 for small spots.

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I still use the Squadron Green just because I an find it 'locally". I did however, get some Mr. White putty and am trying it out. Its a very smooth, creamy consistancey, like cake icing. Seems to dry fairly fast, though its a bit more rubbery than the Squadron stuff. It seems to stick very well to both plastic and resin. Squadron Green does well with plastic, but since its solvent based, has a tendancy to flake off resin while sanding.

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Me and Sabre have been useing NAPA Lacquer Glazing Putty No. 6394 Red Oxide for over ten years. His tube is about half gone and mine is about one-third gone. Stuff is sandable in fifteen minutes, never pits and takes any kind of paint.

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Good luck finding Tamiya putty anywhere now in the US, it's gone. Sadly I'm on my last tube.

I'll move on to Acryl Blue or Bondo spot glazing. I've used the Bondo in the past and know that works well.

Admittedly however I use CA for most of my seam work.

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Squadron green is a great putty, but the cap for it is utter crap imho. It is way too short. In that way there is always putty on where you are supposed to screw it on, and the putty dries up because the cap won't attach properly.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey there B-17 Guy,

I use CA Glue for most seam work. If I need to putty an area, I use 3M red glazing putty or Evercoat Eurosoft. The Evercoat product needs a hardener mixed in that comes with the putty. The Evercoat is also more expensive, but I like it better.

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As much as possible I like to use ribbon epoxy. Some brands are Citadel / Games Workshop 'Green Stuff', Epoxy Sculpt, and I forget the brand I'm using now but it's tan and white. It's the stuff sculptors make miniatures out of but it works great for filling in seams on wing roots and fuselage halves, making molds / casting small parts (extra 40mm bofors ammo on my 1/35 PT Boat), etc.

When it's dry you can sand it, file it, drill it, tap it, paint it, and maybe even eat it.

Here's a link that can explain the stuff better than me:

http://www.bananaking.net/cento/workshop/conv_green.htm

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I have gotten away from the usual putty and CA glue for filling gaps.

For smaller gaps in harder to reach places I use MrSurfacer and remove the excess with nail polish remover and a q-tip.

For gaps along fuselage seams and places that are easy to reach with a sanding stick I now use Testors Tube Glue in the orange tube. It takes a day or so to fully cure. It can be sanded, scribed, and polished. It strengthens the joint that is used upon. I find it easier to work with then CA because it does not get as hard. The down side is the fumes and the curing time. I used it on a DML 1/72 P-38 for the boom/wing joints and it worked like a champ.

HTH and God Bless,

Ken

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Happy New Year to All, I forgot about one of my other favorites, Mr. Surfacer. I started using it about a year ago, and it works great for scratches, shallow seams, and other small jobs. CA is still my favorite for fuselage seams. I've tossed all of my white putty that you are asking about. It dries too fast. I have even mixed it 50/50 with nail polish remover, and it still dries too fast. It seems to dry do fast that it can't "grab" the plastic.

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Apply the glue then sprinkle on the powder is how I always did it, but I used baking soda, not talc. I personally don't like using super glue for filler. Too much sanding and lost detail is involved, and if you wait too long the glue can get really hard, and can be hard to smooth out without taking off too much plastic around it.

I go with the 2 part epoxy paste that you can smooth and remove with a wet finger or other tool (I use a shaped wooden skewer and moist pointed tip cotton swabs), and just recently I started using Mr. surfacer and like it very much. I also use Squadron green and Mr. White putty for skim coating. No Arcyl Blue, but since its another color, I might try it just for kicks!

Edited by JasonB
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