B-17 guy Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Hey folk, I've been using squadron whity for my seem filling, I'm not the biggest fan. I find it tp be a pain in the butt to work with. Seems to dry very quickly which makes it very hard to work with, it get's all dry and gritty and doesnt want to fill seams easily being that it doesnt stay plyable very long at all. I've been using nail polish remover w/acetone to help with that but it's still a pain. Is there something better? Mr. surfacer perhaps, do they have a putty specifically? I've used shaved styrene mixed with liquid cement before for bigger seams but this can get sloppy. Just looking for something better is all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Greenghost Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Mr. Surfacer 500 is Ok for small cracks, give Tamiya Putty a try. You can type putty in the search box and will find a lot of recommendations. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spongebob Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Acryl Blue Baby! Way cheap, dries fast and sands down fine. Spongebob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shawn C. Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Bondo spot galzing putty. Just like you'd use on the old '83 Camaro! A $6 tube at the auto parts store will last about 2 years. The q-tip w/ nail polish remover trick works so incredibly well with this putty. I also like Mr. Surfacer 500 for small spots. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Karl Sander Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I've had good success with squadron green. I also have a tube of Tamiya I got on a fellow ARC'er recommendation that I'm anxious to try, and I've bookmarked Sponge's link now too... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonB Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I still use the Squadron Green just because I an find it 'locally". I did however, get some Mr. White putty and am trying it out. Its a very smooth, creamy consistancey, like cake icing. Seems to dry fairly fast, though its a bit more rubbery than the Squadron stuff. It seems to stick very well to both plastic and resin. Squadron Green does well with plastic, but since its solvent based, has a tendancy to flake off resin while sanding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-4Silverfox Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Me and Sabre have been useing NAPA Lacquer Glazing Putty No. 6394 Red Oxide for over ten years. His tube is about half gone and mine is about one-third gone. Stuff is sandable in fifteen minutes, never pits and takes any kind of paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bryan Dewberry Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Like Shawn, I use a auto glazing putty called Nitro-Stan. A big tube should last you for years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
panthergreen Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 milliput superfine white, can be shaped with water, easy to sand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex.B Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 I use Tamiya regular putty and Squadron Green. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Good luck finding Tamiya putty anywhere now in the US, it's gone. Sadly I'm on my last tube. I'll move on to Acryl Blue or Bondo spot glazing. I've used the Bondo in the past and know that works well. Admittedly however I use CA for most of my seam work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Berkut Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Squadron green is a great putty, but the cap for it is utter crap imho. It is way too short. In that way there is always putty on where you are supposed to screw it on, and the putty dries up because the cap won't attach properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dkobayashi Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 I use squadron green and tamiya putty. the tamiya putty is pretty cheap too, if i remember about a dollar-something off luckymodel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomcatFanatic123 Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 I use the Bondo Spot Glazing putty. Haven't had any problems with it as of yet, and I'm less than 1/4 of the way through my first tube...that I've had for a good year-and-a-half now and used quite consistently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BOC262 Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Another vote for Acryl Blue--great stuff! I used to use Squadron Green, but after trying Nitrostan and then Acryl Blue, I would never go back to Green. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingoalie Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Acryl Blue Baby!Way cheap, dries fast and sands down fine. Spongebob Couldn't agree more with Spongebob! This stuff is great, especially for 1/144th stuff. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Hey there B-17 Guy, I use CA Glue for most seam work. If I need to putty an area, I use 3M red glazing putty or Evercoat Eurosoft. The Evercoat product needs a hardener mixed in that comes with the putty. The Evercoat is also more expensive, but I like it better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mackie Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 As much as possible I like to use ribbon epoxy. Some brands are Citadel / Games Workshop 'Green Stuff', Epoxy Sculpt, and I forget the brand I'm using now but it's tan and white. It's the stuff sculptors make miniatures out of but it works great for filling in seams on wing roots and fuselage halves, making molds / casting small parts (extra 40mm bofors ammo on my 1/35 PT Boat), etc. When it's dry you can sand it, file it, drill it, tap it, paint it, and maybe even eat it. Here's a link that can explain the stuff better than me: http://www.bananaking.net/cento/workshop/conv_green.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
icekj Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 I have gotten away from the usual putty and CA glue for filling gaps. For smaller gaps in harder to reach places I use MrSurfacer and remove the excess with nail polish remover and a q-tip. For gaps along fuselage seams and places that are easy to reach with a sanding stick I now use Testors Tube Glue in the orange tube. It takes a day or so to fully cure. It can be sanded, scribed, and polished. It strengthens the joint that is used upon. I find it easier to work with then CA because it does not get as hard. The down side is the fumes and the curing time. I used it on a DML 1/72 P-38 for the boom/wing joints and it worked like a champ. HTH and God Bless, Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Happy New Year to All, I forgot about one of my other favorites, Mr. Surfacer. I started using it about a year ago, and it works great for scratches, shallow seams, and other small jobs. CA is still my favorite for fuselage seams. I've tossed all of my white putty that you are asking about. It dries too fast. I have even mixed it 50/50 with nail polish remover, and it still dries too fast. It seems to dry do fast that it can't "grab" the plastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Two Mikes Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 CA glue mixed with talcum powder!! It is the best kept secret in modeling!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Walker Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 how exactly do you mix the talcum with the Superglue??? Pre-mix, or apply glue then sprinkle?? Have heard of this but never tried it...... M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomcatFanatic123 Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 how exactly do you mix the talcum with the Superglue???Pre-mix, or apply glue then sprinkle?? Have heard of this but never tried it...... M Yeah, I'd be interested to know as well...sounds interesting :). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonB Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 (edited) Apply the glue then sprinkle on the powder is how I always did it, but I used baking soda, not talc. I personally don't like using super glue for filler. Too much sanding and lost detail is involved, and if you wait too long the glue can get really hard, and can be hard to smooth out without taking off too much plastic around it. I go with the 2 part epoxy paste that you can smooth and remove with a wet finger or other tool (I use a shaped wooden skewer and moist pointed tip cotton swabs), and just recently I started using Mr. surfacer and like it very much. I also use Squadron green and Mr. White putty for skim coating. No Arcyl Blue, but since its another color, I might try it just for kicks! Edited January 1, 2010 by JasonB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 What does appling the powder accomplish? Inquireing minds want to know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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