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I sell Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck and some Grex airbrushes.

What sort of airbrush are you looking for / what sort of painting are you doing / which brush has the lms suggested ????

I'll try and help point you in the right direction.

Paul

little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes

Most of my interest are Camouflaged aircraft. So fine painting would help. My LHS just showed me some grex and told me its the new rave. The other one that i seem to have picked up form the thread is the Iwata HP-CS

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Most of my interest are Camouflaged aircraft. So fine painting would help. My LHS just showed me some grex and told me its the new rave. The other one that i seem to have picked up form the thread is the Iwata HP-CS

I use the Iwata HP-CS for nearly all my airbrushing, alot of it camo schemes on 1:48th scale aircraft. It works equally well at spraying hard edges as well well mottled camo. I highly recommend it.

HTH

Ernest

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Most of my interest are Camouflaged aircraft. So fine painting would help. My LHS just showed me some grex and told me its the new rave. The other one that i seem to have picked up form the thread is the Iwata HP-CS

Grex do a range of traditional generic double action brushes, they have a good reputation and are well made, but suffer from the tiny paint nozzle that most of the Iwata brushes have. They have some slughtly different brushes, the Genesis XA which is a east yo use good quality single action brush.

And a couple of trigger action brushes the Genesis XT which is a general purpose brush and the Tritium TS & TG, these are a top of the range trigger brush with a choice of three needle/nozzle combinations are east to use and clean. The TS is a side feed and the TG a gravity feed.

The brushes you mention are all double action, yours is currently single action. On your pasche you adjust the amount of paint that comes out by adjusting the paint tip. On a double action brush you press the trigger down to get the airflow (as on the Pasche), but you then pull the trigger back to make the paint flow. The more the trigger is pulled back the more paint flows. It is the needle inside the brush that moves, rather than the cap at the end of the brush.

Iwata have the Eclipse CS which has a general purpose 0.35mm needle/nozzle and a large 9ml cup.

The smaller 1.8ml cup version is a a little small for most prople building 1/48th, but ok for 1/72nd.

There is no fine detail needle/nozzle available and a I have found over the years a lot of customer end up buying a seperate brush for detailed work.

Most of my new customers that want a brush for large area work and to do fiddly camouflage got for the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution fPc Two in one.

It gives you everything you need, without to many bells and whistles straight out of the box and it is a reasonable price.

It is a tradirional double action brush with a top feed paint cup. There are several advantages it has over the Eclipse.

The paint cups are removable, in this set you get a 2ml and a 5ml, you can also get a 0.5ml cup for fine detail work (so you can see the end of the brush eaier) and on the larger side a 15ml 50ml and even a 100ml paint cup.

The brush can take any of four needle/nozze/head combinations, 0.6mm for very large areas, 0.4mm for large area, 0.2mm for medium for fine and 0.15mm for fine to very fine.

The fpc two in one is complete with the 0.15mm needle/nozzle and head for very fine work and a 0.4mm set for larger area work.

The brush also has a needle restrictor on the handle to pre-set the distance you can pull the needle back to ensure that you always get the same amount of paint out. This is useful for detailed camouflage work where you need all the squiggles the same size.

It also has a secondary air regulator on the brush. The idea is you set your main regulator pressure so it is a little more than you need, then fine tune the pressure using the second regulator on the brush. It makes it easier to set the brush up for fine detail work.

The harder and Steenbeck nozzle is very easy to take out and clean and spares are reasonably priced. The back end of the brush omes apart in sub assemblies, so fully stripping the brush down is very simpler compared to the Iwata. Tey also produce their own cleaning needle and metal reamer to dit the brush and nozzles.

The price in the US is about $200 (about the same as I sell them for in the UK), the Eclipse looks to be about £120. But you do get a second needle/nozzle/head set in with the H&S that is about $50 of the difference.

I have details of both brushes on my airbrush catalogue if you want to read up on them: www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes

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Just recieved a Grex Tritium TG.2 as an early Christmas present. Still breaking it in, but so far I like it a lot better than my Iwata HP-CS. I have never been able to get comfortable with any double action brushes - never felt in control of the action plaus they felt ackward in my hand for some reason. So I stuck with my Badger 200 single action and let the Iwata and a few other doubles I've purchased over the years set on the shelf. The Grex with the trigger mechanisim is changing that. Very comforatable in my hand and the air/paint mechanisim works well for me. Build quality seems equal to the Iwata. I think the grex is a keeper :thumbsup:

Anyone know if you can add a trigger mechanisim to an Iwata HP-CS?

-dave

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Dave,

Simple answer is no. grex do a handle for the Eclipse that makes it easier to handle: http://www.grexusa.com/grexairbrush/products.php5?id=GGS1

Better for larger hands, so try before you buy!

I stock the trigger brushes for two groups of people, those that use spray guns in their professional work and those that can't get on with a traditional double actioned brush. It's suprising how many people just put up with a double action.

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Don't discount the new Paasche Talon. It comes standard with a .38 tip/needle and can be fitted with a .25 and .66 tips and needles. I purchased the TG-3F set that has all the tips and needles plus a new fan cap for the large tip/needle. It's performance with the different needles gives you the capability of all the other airbrushes at a fraction of the cost.

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/newpatagrai.html

You might also read this:

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....t&p=1874932

Edited by terryt
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Dave,

Simple answer is no. grex do a handle for the Eclipse that makes it easier to handle: http://www.grexusa.com/grexairbrush/products.php5?id=GGS1

Better for larger hands, so try before you buy!

I stock the trigger brushes for two groups of people, those that use spray guns in their professional work and those that can't get on with a traditional double actioned brush. It's suprising how many people just put up with a double action.

Too bad. Not sure what I'll do with the Iwata in the long run.

-dave

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  • 2 months later...

I use a badger 100 gxf with a fine tip for detail work and switch to a med. for general work.Btw their customer service is the best.They just overhauled my brush with a new needle, tip and head washer for no charge and even paid for return shipping.

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I second the Paasche Talon. It is a fine precision instrument. I'm actually surprised that it doesn't get more praise. It's as fine as Iwata.

I third the Paasche Talon. It's a great airbrush that feels great and sprays great, yet it doesn't cost and arm and a leg.

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Could you please explain what you mean by that?

I'm genuinely curious.

Thank you.

Karl

I can't find his original post, but I bet he's referring to the little threaded nozzle (see cut-away here). I've read that people sometimes strip the threads or break them off in the body of the brush.

Don

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QUOTE (little-cars @ Dec 22 2009, 07:19 AM)

... suffer from the tiny paint nozzle that most of the Iwata brushes have. ...

Could you please explain what you mean by that?

I'm genuinely curious.

Thank you.

Karl

Richard is refering to the Iwata nozzles that looks like this:

hiline_assembly.gif

Other brands, Grex, Badger etc. use similar design for their internal mix airbrushes. It is tiny and needs a special wrench from the maker. It is easy to lose or stripe the thread.

The Badger Patriot and Iwata Eclipse use a cone nozzle. It is still small, but is held in place by a larger nozzle holder which is hand tightened and much less prone thread striping.

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You won't be disappointed.

Here is a link for the best prices I've found on the Talon, plus free shipping.

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/newpatagrai.html

You should read some reviews of them before deciding. Here is one on the Talon. It is interesting that the reviewer said, "The trigger was comfortable but had a rough feel on the backstroke". It sounds like that it needs a little "break-in" before it will work more smoothly. This is not unique to Paasche. My Badger Patriot had the same problem. But my Iwata Eclipse and Harder & Steenbeck Evolution worked silky smooth from the first day. It is best if you can try out the different options at the LHS before the purchase.

Also, the Talon has a larger paint cup which makes it head heavy compared to other airbrushes. You may want to try holding one in your hand before final decision.

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You should read some reviews of them before deciding. Here is one on the Talon. It is interesting that the reviewer said, "The trigger was comfortable but had a rough feel on the backstroke". It sounds like that it needs a little "break-in" before it will work more smoothly. This is not unique to Paasche. My Badger Patriot had the same problem. But my Iwata Eclipse and Harder & Steenbeck Evolution worked silky smooth from the first day. It is best if you can try out the different options at the LHS before the purchase.

Also, the Talon has a larger paint cup which makes it head heavy compared to other airbrushes. You may want to try holding one in your hand before final decision.

I have 3 Talons and didn't have a problem with the trigger(s) and they didn't require a break-in period.

Edited by terryt
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