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With decanting and airbrushing how does Tamiya Bare Metal Silver, Silver Leaf, Gloss Aluminum compare to Alclad? Also, I have bought some Mr Surfacer 1200/1000 in the jar, do I thin this with Lacquer Thinner for airbrushing on as a primer?

Edited by MESHER
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In my experience, the Tamiya AS and TS metallics are somewhat sturdier than Alclad II; you can use SnJ buffing powder on them and apply Future over a cured surface with ease. The Alclad at times can be rather fragile, and may even rub off if you're not careful. But the look of Alclad is incomparible; as good as the Tamiya metallics look, the Alclad is ever so much better.

With both Tamiya rattle can metallics and Alclad II, I prefer to apply several light coats of Tamiya TS 14, Gloss Black, for greater reflectivity.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

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I would also like to know what type of thinner to use for Mr. Surfacer. I also bought 1000 and 1200 in the jar and need to thin it for airbrushing a primer layer on my plane.

I use regular cellulose thinner

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Ideally Mr. Color Thinner, but I've never been able to find it, and as such use lacquer thinner to thin. Don't remember the ratio, but make sure you thin it plenty or you'll get "spiderwebs" all over your model. Test spray on something before pointing it at your model. Great stuff! I'm hooked on Mr. Surfacer

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Been using Tamiya laquer thinner with Mr. Surfacer with no issues so far. Only thing I had at the time and just kept on using it.

Have heard about using Mr. color but I can't find it either.

If I do not use Mr Leveling Thinner, with Mr Retarder, I get lots of cotton candy sprayed out. Rainbow10 is a great place to get this stuff.

DaveT

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If I do not use Mr Leveling Thinner, with Mr Retarder, I get lots of cotton candy sprayed out. Rainbow10 is a great place to get this stuff.

DaveT

Sprue Brothers also carries the line if you want to go domestic US

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Yep, tons of cotton candy unless their Leveling Thinner is used, SB has it stateside.

Only time I get the "cotton candy" or "spiderwebs" as I call them, is when there's not enough thinner in there.

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Only time I get the "cotton candy" or "spiderwebs" as I call them, is when there's not enough thinner in there.

Having thinned Mr Surfacer with both Mr Color Thinner and generic lacquer thinner, I've found you don't have to use anywhere near as much thinner with the Gunze stuff as compared to the generic thinner. Bear in mind though that generic hardware-store lacquer thinners vary wildly, as will the results.

Kev

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Having thinned Mr Surfacer with both Mr Color Thinner and generic lacquer thinner, I've found you don't have to use anywhere near as much thinner with the Gunze stuff as compared to the generic thinner. Bear in mind though that generic hardware-store lacquer thinners vary wildly, as will the results.

Kev

I'd prefer to use what the manuf. recommends, but I don't want to double the cost of it by paying for shipping. If I can find some local, I'd love to give it a go.

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I use Automotive Two way thinners from PPG, you should be able to get it the stuff from your local PPG Paint agent. I thin everything with it.. Mr Surfacer and Mr Hobby paints.. Never had a problem.

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Personally....I don't think Tamiya is even remotely close to the tonal quality and durability one gets with Alclad. As for thinning Mr. Surfacer....just plain ole lacquer thinner from the hardware store....mix approx. 3:1. GSI/Creos Leveling Thinner, believe it or not, is NOT a prerequisite either.

~Greg

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GSI/Creos Leveling Thinner, believe it or not, is NOT a prerequisite either.

You're right, it's not. But using it allows me to get away with thinning Mr Surfacer at 50:50 or so, just like normal paint. As I keep saying, not all generic hardware store lacquer thinners are created equal, and you really need to try what's available to you to see if it will suffice. With the stuff I can get, I have to thin to at least 5:1 to avoid spiderwebbing, and by then it's uselessly thin.

As a bonus, I find Mr Color Thinner is brilliant for thinning both Tamiya and Gunze acrylics too.

Kev

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