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Uggggh. Today's work is becoming mind numbing. This incredibly hard but brittle red plastic did not take well to the liquid cement, and hardly dissolved at all. So instead of having a small, nicely welded minor raised seam, I have these incredibly stubborn tiny gap-lines that refuse to go away. I'm on about my third application of a mix of Tamiya putty and Mr Surfacer 500, depending on what part of the model we're talking about. Coupled with the alternating raised/recessed detail, sanding these down is becoming very frustrating.

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Uggggh. Today's work is becoming mind numbing. This incredibly hard but brittle red plastic did not take well to the liquid cement, and hardly dissolved at all. So instead of having a small, nicely welded minor raised seam, I have these incredibly stubborn tiny gap-lines that refuse to go away. I'm on about my third application of a mix of Tamiya putty and Mr Surfacer 500, depending on what part of the model we're talking about. Coupled with the alternating raised/recessed detail, sanding these down is becoming very frustrating.

Whiner!! :worship:

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Uggggh. Today's work is becoming mind numbing. This incredibly hard but brittle red plastic did not take well to the liquid cement, and hardly dissolved at all. So instead of having a small, nicely welded minor raised seam, I have these incredibly stubborn tiny gap-lines that refuse to go away. I'm on about my third application of a mix of Tamiya putty and Mr Surfacer 500, depending on what part of the model we're talking about. Coupled with the alternating raised/recessed detail, sanding these down is becoming very frustrating.

You're going to need welding gear, I don't care if it's acetylene or propane. You going to need a soldering station, you're going to need helmets, you're going to need goggles, a smelting cup, you need two sets of precision tools...

movies_fa07b81fc2b8e09e3a0b847b93a8a036.jpg

Edited by Tony Stark
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awesome job so far Waco! there was one of these built up at our local contest this past weekend. he reposed his and opened up some (i guess they'd be) flaps? on the calves. seeing how much trouble it seems to be cutting this thing, i'm even more impressed now. i didn't get a chance the ask the builder, but it looked like he used gold alcad undercoat and oversprayed the main areas with a nice deep red. came out with a beautiful candy apple. i think i snapped a few shots of it, i'll try to sned you some if you're interested and looking for paint ideas.

keep up the strggle and posts!

Bill

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've actually gotten quite a bit accomplished here, but hit one major setback. In an attempt to keep my voltage/resistance calculations simple, I was attempting to use the same size LEDs through the whole kit. Unfortunately, the MkI chest piece looked....well, a bit undersize. Even when illuminated in the highly reflective tube I'd constructed, it still looked like a small LED in a big tunnel.

MkI chest piece:

IMG_1405.jpg

IMG_1406.jpg

So then I constructed the MkII chest piece. Essentially, I attempted to squeeze three LEDs into said tube, wired in parallel, and sanded to fit. It almost worked...almost. Here are the lessons learned: 1 - 1 minute epoxy, when not completely cured, will conduct electricity extremely well. 2 - 1 minute epoxy fumes, while curing, are extremely volatile. 3 - partially cured 1 minute epoxy is also flamable....and still surprisingly fluid, even after 5 minutes or so, if applied in quantity. 4 - burning heat shrink insulators smell really bad.

So, thus ended the MkII chest piece. I now have a large, high intensity LED on order. Here's a look at the evil looking little device before it went up in flames:

IMG_1407.jpg

Fortunately, no damage to the actual kit. Continuing along, I managed to get the seams mostly cleaned up, prime the kit, and scribe out segmentation on the hands to match the movie suit:

IMG_1427.jpg

IMG_1428.jpg

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After priming, the main transducer feels sluggish above +40 altitude and hull pressurization is problematic, I'm thinking icing... So, I connected to the sysco, reconfigured the shell metals using the gold titanium alloy from the seraphim tactical satellite to ensure fuselage integrity while preserving power to weight ratio.

Here's the render using proposed specifications:

IMG_1430.jpg

IMG_1429.jpg

IMG_1431.jpg

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When I first noticed the Gold Titanium color, looked like C3PO meets Iron man.

Truth in advertising at this point. Despite the movie quote and "specifications," I found Alclad "Gold Titanium" to be far too pale. It was very, very light. So I ended up respraying with Testors Metalizer Brass....which was the next closest "gold" color I had on hand. I actually had a rattle can of gold lacquer, but I'm glad I tested it first. It was one of those flecked, car finish type colors. Essentially, Tony Stark would've been flying around in an armored suit in gold flecked lowrider paint!

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Ahh Caprisun, the official drink of all F-22 drivers.

It mixes well with vodka. Stir up a good sized batch, start drawing schematics, and eventually you'll end up with the plans for the PAK-FA.

Edited by Waco
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It mixes well with vodka.

And serve with F-5Es, grilled with Chipotle and a cool Cucumber Salsa.

Having just found the thread, I dig this project. The 'off the beaten path' ideas are more appealing to me than ever before.

Somewhere I've got buried one of AMT's old Speeder bike kits. I was stopped for want of skill in modification of pose; I wanted the Imperial trooper somehow with one leg on the ground while seated on the bike. A steel bar up through his leg would make the suspended bike appear to hover. But I couldn't get the pose to look natural, especially as his armor didn't permit an easy biker "slouch." I'll work something out someday, I imagine.

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And serve with F-5Es, grilled with Chipotle and a cool Cucumber Salsa.

The F-5Es are for later. Right now I'm just rescribing them while waiting for parts of the MkIII to dry.

Better be properly prepared for the rest of that meal:

chipotlaway.jpg

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Alclad transparent red over the brass. I do recommend going very slowly when doing this, as you have to be careful to layer the red evenly over the whole kit. I need to go over the back of the torso, as it looks more "orange-ish" than the rest of the kit. I guess I didn't put as much transparent red down there.

Now I just have one major problem left: the chest piece LED. Until I get that, well, the technology to power the suit? Sir, it doesn't actually exist.

IMTech.jpg

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Thanks guys! A bit more work left...need to add some of the small silver details, finalize the wiring (once said elusive power source arrives), and complete the assembly. After that, attach to the base (which is mostly complete).

As much as I don't WANT to, I think I need to clear coat the model. The brass is not as durable as I'd like, and I chipped a piece off this morning by accident. Nothing serious, but...

Also, a couple decisions ahead. I'm trying to decide if I use a wash to highlight some of the panel lines or not. I also need to decide whether I'm going to weather him up a little or not.

Decisions, decisions...

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I'd weather him just a bit anyway ... He got pretty dirty in the fight scenes ... Scuffed up a bit too ...

The clear coat will give a bit more shine than the finish the Alclad has too ...

Gregg

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