F-15 nozzles... ideas??

[Jennings]

So I've got the 'walks the dog & waters the plants' Aires F-15 nozzles. I think I've nailed painting the streaky interior, but I've never yet seen a model that I thought really captured the dusky brown-grey look of the outside of the real things. It's got a slight metallic sheen to it. I've tried tinting metalizer, but it comes out looking muddy. Anybody got any ideas??

J

[PNW_Modeler]

have you tried using one of Tamiya's Weather Masters sets over Metalizer?

Not sure how it would look, but I use it over Tamiya Aluminum and it still has a little sheen through it....could look pretty good with Metalizer

Edited January 26, 2010 by paul.nortness

[Sauragnmon]

Random thought - look up a citadel ink that might have the tone, apply it over the metal. An ink treatment over a straight metal have the more darkened metal look you're looking for that a paint-tinted metal might not catch. Just a random, quick thought.

[Jennings]

have you tried using one of Tamiya's Weather Masters sets over Metalizer?

Never even heard of it. Bear in mind that the nearest hobby shop worthy of the name is at minimum a 3 hour drive from my house.

J

[strikeeagle801]

You won't find Citadel paints in a hobby shop Jennings. Look around for a Games Workshop (Warhammer) and you'll find them there. They are the paints/inks that are designed by Games Workshop to be used on the figures and such. They are really, really good for brush painting. Unless you consider Snot Green to be an FS number, you'll not find paints easily matched to our uses, but they have a lot of colors and variations.

Aaron

[geedubelyer]

Hi Jennings,

I used Rotten Flesh (a very light green colour) in the "teeth" of the second layer of petals followed by a wash of black to make the detail pop too. It adds a nice contrast and breaks up the monotone blackness.

The best combo of paint I've found for the outside of the petals and actuators is Chaos Black dry-brushed with Boltgun Metal, both from Citadel Miniatures available through Games Workshop or on-line.

Unfortunately, Games Workshop in the UK have discontinued their inks choosing instead to offer a new line of washes.

The washes are far less intense than the inks so don't give the same effect anymore. The reason I was given was that the inks gave a gloss sheen whereas the washes are more matt.

Perhaps they'll realise their mistake and re-launch the ink range, fingers crossed.

HTH

Good luck.

[boom175]

Take a little burnt sienna, I use oil paints thinned with turpenoid. Gives a good burnt metal look.

[dmthamade]

I start with a flat black base coat, then give it a light Gunmetal coat. I then give it a random light wash with clear blue, clear orange, and clear red. The nozzles are then washed with a very dirty brown/black sludge wash. A very light dry brushing with steel, then a clear coat of semi gloss clear. The ring in front of the can is sprayed very lightly with clear blue base, then very light mist of clear red, green and orange.

Don

[Murph]

I start with a flat black base coat, then give it a light Gunmetal coat. I then give it a random light wash with clear blue, clear orange, and clear red. The nozzles are then washed with a very dirty brown/black sludge wash. A very light dry brushing with steel, then a clear coat of semi gloss clear. The ring in front of the can is sprayed very lightly with clear blue base, then very light mist of clear red, green and orange.

Don

Don,

I really like that effect. Is the gunmetal coat a highly thinned, and srayed coat?

Regards,

Murph

[dmthamade]

Don,

I really like that effect. Is the gunmetal coat a highly thinned, and srayed coat?

Regards,

Murph

Yes, the gunmetal is highly thinned and sprayed. The black acts as a preshade. I sprayed the gunmetal in very light coats until it looked "right" to the eye. Looking at the pic, it`s a lot shinier than it really is. HTH

Don

[blunce]

Don

Are those Aires or kit nozzles? They look amazing btw!

[dmthamade]

Are those Aires or kit nozzles? They look amazing btw!

They are the kit nozzles on a 1/32 Tamiya F-15E Strike Eagle. There is a tutorial in the Tools and Tips section under Weathering and Washes, Bare Metal by Paul Brown. I think it`s THE BEST tutorial for exhaust painting on jet engines.

Don

[Ken Middleton]

Don, great work on those nozzles

[blunce]

They are the kit nozzles on a 1/32 Tamiya F-15E Strike Eagle. There is a tutorial in the Tools and Tips section under Weathering and Washes, Bare Metal by Paul Brown. I think it`s THE BEST tutorial for exhaust painting on jet engines.

Don

Good to know, THANKS!

[JasonB]

I find that using dried up Metalizer (the residue/powder thats left behind) is excellent for drybrushing and making things look metallic. Just add the tiniest bit of thinner to get it on the brush and go to it. I do all my 1/16th and 1/9 weapons by painting them black and dry brushing them with Metalizer. The buffing stuff might be better to give the underlying coat a metallic sheen, as it smears a bit when rubbed out, but won't cover up the base color.

Another way to make something look metallic is to use graphic powder. The stuff I have comes in a squeeze bottle and is meant to be used as a lubricant for sliding metal parts where a wet lube wouldn't be good. I squeeze a little of it on whatever I want to look metallic, then use a cotton swab to rub it around. Works a lot like the powdered metallizer. The more you buff it the shinier it gets.

Edited January 27, 2010 by JasonB