sharkey Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Are there any panel lines left on this kit? That's a lot of hacking and sanding. Crazy amount of work. Nice one. Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) Are there any panel lines left on this kit? No, I think not... Except for the ones, rescribed on the horizontals ... Especially after I tackle engines ... It's getting warmer here, so I hope I'll airbrush this weekend (forecast says +15 deg C and sunny), but first let's drop an eye on those Equipage wheels (right) vs. Aires (left). Equipage rims are yellow... First thing first ...These grooves are representing inner side and ring no.2 is outer while ring no.1 is inner... These are just a few hints, which are not so obvious from instructions ... I started with the ring no.2, since it has some annoying little pieces of metal which need to be bend ... I bent them with the knife, while a piece of thin wire was used as an applicator ... This is ring no.1, glued ... Socket wrenches, as suggested by Viking Lady, were not used, since they are quite heavy - it would be easier to mess those tiny PE parts, than to make something usefull I used ordinary AAA battery and a flat piece of styrofoam instead ... To be continued ... Edited March 9, 2011 by supergru Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 After both rings were assembled, I proceeded with the shutter no.6 Cowl no.4 goes over the rings ... while cowl no.3 comes over cowl no.4 Here are some shots, when the first nozzle was dryfitted to the fuselage and directly compared to the Aires one ... BRB Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Dreammodel instructions tells you to use part no. E6 from Trumpeter kit, but I don't have it, and never will. So, I'm going to borrow that inner section from Aires ... This is a testfit of screen no.5 and Aires inner mantling One more thing: if you mess up glueing (as I did several times), just drop PE parts into acetone and max 30 minutes, you'll have no clue that it was glued with CA before acetone bath... 2nd nozzle at various stages ... Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Remember that aircon tape, I used to rebuilt details on the main legs? Well, I used it again, to bond inner and outer rings... It looks like a nozzle for Space Shuttle, isn't it? Last comparison ...Goodbye, Aires... See you at 1/50 scale... I think 3 parts are minimum needed for assembly and painting, everything else is glued or taped .... Where's that NEXT POST button??? Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Heh, 8 members & 6 guests at the same time ... :D Anyone willing to leave a comment, maybe? And now, both nozzles attached to 0.8 mm wire ...Left one has some parts from Aires test fitted (PE screen is missingon the pictures)... Am I only one who thinks those nozzles are so big in true 1/48 scale, that they look like they're taken from MiG-31 and not from Su-27? Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Last time I wrote how I stripped paint from various parts, cockpit mostly... So, in all that rumble I managed to lose two PE parts for the K-36 seat (arrows on the pic), so you'll se even more scratchbuilding here :wub: At least I managed to finish something: that port inner side for the front wheelbay ... Here still in assembly line ... ... and here with my paper scratches... Yeah, that's me: you can find the biggest ideas on the smallest pieces of paper, newspaper, etc... Okay, this is supermacro mode on my camera, and those details will cover area not bigger than a 50 x 3 mm strip ... And with some more wire and Revell 48 paint... Paint went onto styrene, too, but it's better so, than the paint went onto the model itself ... To be continuted ... Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 I also did some sanding on the wings ... Port wing got another extra layer of putty for lateral cut... Starboard wing got some bad luck :wub: I was so focused on one tiny spot, that I missed messed whole inner trailing edge ... I recovered this with a pieces of 0.25 mm styrene and putty ... Test fit with the flap: O.K. :wub: That's all from me for this update, now it's your turn to hit "Add reply" button ... Link to post Share on other sites
Pinguis Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 I pressed the button, but I am also at loss for words. Not sure if that was what you intended. Link to post Share on other sites
Aggressor Supporter Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 :lol: That detail wire work is amazing! Link to post Share on other sites
tonal Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) OMG!!, again, I've check in to check out your progress and it blows me away, all I can say is that you rock, the work your doing speaks of a certain state of mind, I can only hope to have learned a great deal from following this thread. Tonal Question on canopy Supergru, what tool are you using to apply holes around the canopy, if not a tool are you doing this free hand? Edited March 11, 2011 by tonal Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 I pressed the button, but I am also at loss for words. Not sure if that was what you intended. Well, you can always leave a comment here, on MnN (link), since you are from Portugal OMG!!, again, I've check in to check out your progress and it blows me away, all I can say is that you rock, the work your doing speaks of a certain state of mind What state of mind you mean? Insanity? Neh, I leave this to Uncle Uncool ... He's crazy as much as I am ... Question on canopy Supergru, what tool are you using to apply holes around the canopy, if not a tool are you doing this free hand? You mean these holes? Back then I made them with this engraver... It's quite heavy with a pointy tip... I ordered it from HLJ, but I can't find a link on their web page anymore... In the meantime I got some riveters for pattern holes (like the horizontal stab, intakes, etc...) I took them at modelimex.eu .... Very good product, worth every cent! This is just for punching holes - for scribing panel lines, I'm using another set of tooling from the picture below (shown while scribing horizontals) Link to post Share on other sites
tonal Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Thanks for your reply's on tools used, and now to make a list:) In reference to state of mind, simply put, your focus and attention to detail. Tonal Edited March 15, 2011 by tonal Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Past weekend I finished 1st phase of tests, using balsa master ... I started first with just one tealight candle (but quickly changed to 2 pcs)... 'Cause of heavy flexible tube from vacuum cleaner, I used a screw clamp to balance it. A first I didn't use any frame at all, then I tried with a small ones (on the left) whose negative side is being hardly larger than the master itself... I'll come back to bigger ones, later on ... Whole summary is visible on the pic below... So, let's start, one by one ... (1) First row are shots made from overhead projector foil - thin, cheap, available, but useless - it just wrinkles ... (2) 2nd row are shots made from some packing foil ... Tealights, small frames... I had enough for three attempts and no more - promising, but still ... (3) 3rd row were attempts made from another packing foil, but this time I used oven, preheated to 150 deg C, and bigger frames... To be able to use bigger frames, I made another web from plywood - this time holes are longitudinal positioned ... From camera furthest (on the pic above), let's call it 3A, was first one... This was 0.4 mm foil and upper part was quite good, but no sidewalls were present ... Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 (3B) in the middle, this time vacuum cleaner was at it's maximum, and oven was set at 175 deg C. Sidewalls of the canopy are present, but the frame is still missing ... (3C) camera nearest, I used 0.5 mm styrene sheet, and raised the master... So, from this ... I came to this: Next post please... Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) This is the result: foil came even UNDER the master... OK, this was expected to happen sooner or later... I almost crushed the master, while trying to remove the foil from it ... The frame itself needs to be repaired ... (4) I tried 0.25 mm ordinary styrene sheet, under same conditions (175 deg C, big frame, max vacuum) bad idea ... (5) Same foil as 3A and 3B, but with raised master... It's hardly visible, but I got the edge of the canopy frame, partially. With it I finished my testing with the balsa master, and now I'll proceed with the epoxy master. All parameters are set, but the catch 22 is the foil - each packing has it's own foil (density, thikness, material, ...) so it's no use to have 2-3 test shots and then just 1-2 left for "real thing". I'll probably order 0.3 mm styrene sheets to end this. Edited March 21, 2011 by supergru Link to post Share on other sites
tonal Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 AMAZING Tonal :) Link to post Share on other sites
Kazım GÜRHAN Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Dear supergru ; There are too many holes on your vacubox and they are too close. And if you use your kitchen oven to heat up your transparent sheet you will get a better final product. Be patient during this process and let the sheet loose down completely in the oven. Link to post Share on other sites
Kazım GÜRHAN Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Dear supergru ; I'm gonna answer your question in private message from here for all the other users of this forum.... You can divide your plywood web ( top plate ) into squares which are 2 cm. x 2 cm. ( or 1.5 cm. x 1.5 cm. )in dimension. And then drill out the intersection points. In other words you should spread the holes in a balanced way according to your web's geometrical shape. For heat up process 160 - 180 C. will roughly be enough and your waiting time should be approx. 3-4 min. for thicknesses up to 0.5 mm. / 5-6 min. for 0.5-1 mm. / 6-7 min. for 1-1.5 mm. / 7-8 min. for 1.5-2 mm. These numbers may seem too much at first but for materials like polystrene, acetate or plexiglass it will work efficiently. And as I said before take your time and let the sheet loose down completely to form a reverse bubble towards the bottom of the oven and don't forget to turn on your vacuum cleaner before taking it out ..............Good luck Link to post Share on other sites
supergru Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Kazim, thank you on your support. In return I present you new web, with fewer holes @ 1.5 cm, baked that foil for 5 minutes or so at 175 deg C. Still needs to be raised, and maybe 1-2 staples more... Link to post Share on other sites
Kazım GÜRHAN Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 To minimize the wrinkles you can use a couple of more staples. If it doesn't work slightly widen your web. As far as I can see from here the final product is getting better.................... Link to post Share on other sites
Simonov Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Hi Supegru. I went through the same process with vacu forming. And of course through the absolute same results. On the end I used stove on the highest temp. Only High temperature worked for me. No wrinkles at all. But I have to say that I can see some “flow patterns†on the surface of the plastic. Maybe it was too much heat. I hope that clear would help. If someone can comment on this I would appreciate it. Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Topic closed as per request of OP Link to post Share on other sites
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