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Academy Su-27S 1/48 - Eritrean splinter "608"


  

208 members have voted

  1. 1. Would you stretch this Academy Flanker to proper length, if you could?

    • Yes, I want an accurate model in scale
      80
    • No, it's a small error - only 3.5% in length
      129


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There are some pictures of my set of Wolfpack wheel bays (early). I don't think there is any difference with the "late". In fact, I don't know what "late" means at all.

Thanks, Kasatka!

:doh: Yup, my deepest fears came to light - Wolfpack messed their wheelbays upgrade sets!!!

"Early" contains late resin front wheelbay, while "Late" has early design in the box

Early front wheelbay (you can get it with LATE wheelbay set)

- you can see that front 2/3 has a flat ceiling with numerous piping etc., while only last 1/3 is a half circle

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Late front wheelbay (you'll get it with the EARLY wheelbay set)

- ceiling is half circular thru whole front wheelbay - piping and avionics above are covered with metal sheet

- your picturee shows us two additional major mistakes on this master : front part of the front wheelbay is not deepen as on my Flanker, and the bumper for the front strut is missing!

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I've read Gordon's book today, to search for additional info about early vs. late production batches for Su-27S:

Early production batches and some prototypes:

-forward fuselage reinforced with external plates

-horizontally cropped dielectric fin caps

Late production batches:

-transverse frame added to cockpit canopy to facilitate production

-antiflutter fin weights deleted

-forward fuselage beefed up (no more external plates)

-raked fin caps

-from batch 18, new, lengthen and wider tail stinger for additional chaff/flare dispensers

-additional 2 hardpoints under the wings

-since payload and MTOW increased, main gear oleos were reinforced, too

(-upgraded N001 radar and AL-31F engines)

(-inner reinforements for horizontal stabilisators)

(-secondary strike capability)

However, I didn't found any data on the front wheelbay upgrades ;)

Wolfpack wheelbays are full of details, some of which I won't even have on my Flanker, a bit crude for my taste, but I doubt I'll ever buy them ...

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I dont' know what you're talking about

i just got the "late" version, and I say i'm quite pleased with it,

the front wheel bay is the same as in my Su-27 walkaround from Squadron Signal (the one you said is "early" (one without the metal sheets cover) is identified as "late" in the book)

-----------

just saying, i'm no expert

Edited by TheBruin
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I dont' know what you're talking about

i just got the "late" version, and I say i'm quite pleased with it,

the front wheel bay is the same as in my Su-27 walkaround from Squadron Signal (the one you said is "early" (one without the metal sheets cover) is identified as "late" in the book)

-----------

just saying, i'm no expert

@TheBruin: no hard feelings here, mate! OK?! This is a hobby... I just want to clear some things out...

I'm not an expert either, but if I'm wrong, this would mean that I have 2 possibilities:

- either to change front wheelbay completely (which doesn't make any sense at this stage)

- or to shorten the tail stinger and finish it in ... Let's say Ukrainian 08 blue ?!

Anybody else willing to contribute to this discussion? Any experts out there?

I'm willing to delete/edit my last two posts but I want a proof first ... :banana:

I was just thinking ... Would this mean that you're actually forced to buy Wolfpack late wheelbay set everytime you want to make Flanker with bigger stinger, as on Academy kit? How come Mr. Duffey never mentioned this in his Flanker models review? I mean that front wheelbay is completely wrong and that it should be the one without metal cover?

I'm confused ... :banana:

If somebody is willing to help, and not just to "lurk around" as usuall, this is your chance now... :nanner:

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@Uncle Uncool and everybody else: check that Sergei's Su-27UB (a.k.a. Loong). You could learn a thing-or-two. Besides, that's only stretched Academy Flanker I found out there.

Yo, Tomi! :wave:

Me's real fine with Sergei's build, only that me doesn't like the two-seat Flankers 'n' then again, "them" windshield is sorta inaccurate.

Heh, "improved"... :D If you want to "improve" it, pick a correct nose, replacement cockpit and nozzles... This,... Well I think this deserves a different word... How 'bout it Uncle Uncool? Anything popping up in your dictionary?

Well, only word which comes to mind right now is...

bazinga_by_arselife.jpg

But me might look up for a better word after lunch if so ya like. :P

Something new, I'll update this thread with the photos from another topic...

I started sanding master on Sunday ...

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:blink: Noooiiiceee...!!! Will ya please vacuum-form one copy of "them" finished master for the Viking Lady? Me's purchasin' Yufei's (aka Haneto) example when it's ready. The Dragon Sheila is makin' a review of both windshields/canopies on a local modellin' forum. Says she might purchase yers if ya will, ya hear?

I have to ask: who are those girls??

WhereVinceWhere.jpg

Cheers, Tomeo!

Unc²

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WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW! I can't believe that I missed this whole thread when you started it. This has been an amazing journey and the best part is it isn't done yet. Can't wait for your next update, don't keep us waiting!

Jeremy

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  • 2 weeks later...

:rofl:Tomy! Learnt 'bout the latest news, bloke? Seems the lil' teaser made the grade! Zotz has just released a 1/6th scale figure of her; lookie there!

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:yahoo:Jesus... I'm SO cooked now; there's no stoppin' the bloody teaser from showin' off endlessly... :taunt:

I have to ask: who are those girls??

CatalinaGonzlez.jpg

Cheers,

Unc²

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4th and 5th upper cut ... +2 mm each... 4th cut wasn't planned, but while I was cross-checking the model with drawings, after and before each new cut, this cut was inevitable.

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6th and final upper cut ... This time I cut 4 mm strips to avoid interference with Aires cockpit ... I also lengthten cockpit spine ...

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Rear canopy cannot be closed properly anymore, due to pins added to the front canopy.

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Final dryfitting ... Replacement nose and nose probe, lengthen upper fuselage and stinger...

All-in-all I added some 20 mm styrene for 16 mm difference... As said earlier, some cuts were unplanned (meaning more cuts needed), and the rest ate Tamiya saw ...

There were 7 cuts (6 for fuselage and 1 for stinger).... + new nose

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Awesome work your doing, can't wait to see the finish product, also thinking of that same direction on my next build, keep up the great work! Tonal

Edited by tonal
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  • 4 weeks later...

On February 10th, 2010 I started this topic, here on ARC. A year has gone. And maybe 1.5 years that Flankerstein is on my bench. This update bring some crutial and critical decisions, which will form it's final stage, but also some stuff you all already saw, but this time well improved or being corrected. As always.

First thing: camo. Since Linden Hill anounced some new sheets being launched these days, I asked them what about Ukrainian new splinters, they announced for Q4,2010... Yesterday, I got reply it's being moved to late Q2, 2011. So, it's going to be Eritrean. Period. No further discussions, please. Some good soul posted here on ARC a link to new photos of Eritrean Flankers, taken after overhaul and painting at Zaporhozhye facility (link). At least for me, these photos were unknown, which brings some details to be bugged with.

First of all, 608 is a single seater, while 609 is a twin seater. There are several finished Eritrean Flankers, here on ARC, which are single seater, but 609. And I understand this, since good photos of Eritrean Flankers are rare. So, modelers thrusted decal instructions.

Second, twin seater has different shade used for pale green on upper side. (OK; I'm not working on UB, but, nevertheless)

Third, font used for fleet no. is not the one you'll get with Begemot or HiDecal sheets. It's ordinary Arial font. I'll try my best to reproduce something useful on Expert's Choice foils (link), but I didn't work with them before. If this doen't work, I'll use SB006 and SB024 decals from Begemot Flanker Family part 1 for Indian Su-30MK, and make 602 or 604 out of them.

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Paints My long awaited MM Duck Egg Blue (acrylics, no. 4748), came from USA, and I tested it on my testbed Zvezda Su-27 in 1/72. This was my first choice for underside paint ...

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Rather useless greenish ... No blue here ... :bandhead2:

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Hitting next post ...

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Next day I mixed some enamels ...

When looked from below: on the right side half I brushed MM 2130 Flanker Pale Blue (which also turned greenish, color C). Then I mixed it with 50% MM1562 Flat Light Blue, and got the color B. This turned blue, but too strong for my taste. I added another 50% of MM Flanker Pale Blue (color D). Color A represents MM Duck Egg Blue, from day before.

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It was sunset already, so I apologyze for bad light. Late that evening I sanded whole paint down (plus some raised panels on the underside)

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and started all over with MM Flanker Medium Blue (2131), and said this is it! :bandhead2:

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So: this is how it stands right now:

MM2131 (Flanker Medium Blue) - undeside

MM2130 (Flanker Pale Blue) - RWR, nosecone

MM1728 (Light Ghoust Grey) - Wheelbays, intakes

So, intakes got them all: First Ghoust Grey

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then Pale Blue (RWR, covered with Tamiya tape), and some Medium Blue for surface tests

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To be continuted ...

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Surface details wasn't lost... And some nasty holes are already filled with putty...

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And this is Zvezda with both colors ...

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Speaking of colors, that glycol tank finaly got some Steel (Revell) on it. It's a good paint, but needs to be very thinned, to get that metalic effect

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And since I lowered the intake ramp, the ceiling was missing... This is already sanded and painted ...

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Now, it's about time to remove some paint ... Some modelers on local forum suggested to consider correcting cockpit, or better to say, to remove thick paint from some parts and to try to paint them all over ... So, Mr Muscolo got first set of parts...

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Cockpit tub and inner canopy frame are next ... Instrument panel went into acetone (nail polish remover, but oil-based, not the real medicine acetone)

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While working on main gear struts, I remembered another link: locking pin. And because of it I needed to make new holes for struts, one milimeter closer to nose. First picture is a dry test on original Academy. I already lost one pin, of course, which will end with more scratchbuilding.

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To be continued in a second ...

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CANOPY.... One of the balsa wood masters got several coats of wood varnish or lacquer... I'm going to used it as a testbed for vacuforming. Now I'm going to sand it and the reapply some more coats ...

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The real master got some thin coats of paint... Those scratches from files (on the fuselage, right beneathe the master) are already filled and sanded.

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Then I sanded the paint, and removed it from the fuselage. Now, that was a tricky surgery, but the patient survived.

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Then I polished it up to 2000 grid (you cant see the window reflection on it). It still need some corrections, though...

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I bought a cheap Domino set (4-5 USD), but not to play with it, but to use the box ...

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First I got two blisters driling a big hole for vacum cleaner

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Then I got clever, when I needed 2 mm holes for the web...

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Next post please ...

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After some 150-160 holes ...

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I also sealed all the inner corners with wood glue...

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It's still not finished, but it will be one day ...

WINGS ... I got them glued to the lower fuselage half... Port wing was glued 3 times and starboard twice...Drawings were used for alignment ...

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And for height I used UHU Patafix (plasticine not recomended - either too soft of too hard)

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Yet, 'cause of all nasty cuts I needed to invent several quick solutions, like this insert to raise leading edge on the starboard wing ...

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I already showed to you all that the port wing WILL BE A HEADACHE itself. Because of wide cut, and inspite of that big styrene block (3 mm in height) + several small ones, the weight of the wing alone dropped the outer edge for 3-4 mm when compared to the staboard wing (25% difference).

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To solve this problem, I took a piece of brass, and pushed it back inside the channel between the fuselage and lower wing... I took a piece of metal this time, beacuse I didn't want to melt it with glue... It's really a play of milimeter fractals (pushing it forward-backward) to gain 1-2 mm up-down on the wing outboard edge...

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Leading edge was another story ...

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This time I took a piece of sprue, but not any piece, just the one which would raise it (and hold position) thru it's whole length... And another thing is that I needed to watch for was the little space I had to push it in and rotate properly ...

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This is underside view after all this corrections ...

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Be right back !

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I also made a new set of hydraulic lines for starboard side in the front wheelbay. 3rd attempt, if I counted it correctly... Main difference when compared with previous attempt (bottom) - new one was made of 0.2 mm wire, instead of 0.3 mm.

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Now, you could ask yourself how the hell did he paint that 4th wire in black? 'Cause it looks so bloody perfectly painted... Who said I painted it? Somebody else did... I ordered thinnest coloured copper wire I could find on the eBay (used for another hobby - jewelry)

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Yes, you got it right... 175 meters od pale blue + 125 meters of black + 125 meters of silver = cca. 10 Flankers in 1/48 scale

Why not more ? Check your reference for pictures of main wheelbays on Flanker ... Do you see some coloured lines there? I do ... Plenty ... :D

Third, and also very important shipment were Plastruct round bars (0.5, 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 mm). Starting position ...

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4 (four) hours later ...

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Some enamels and pieces of coloured copper wire ...

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Dry test in front wheelbay ...

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And since I have all that Plastruct goodies, I finaly started with the port side for inner front wheelbay ...

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One more to come...

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Now did I say I'm working on the next pair of actuators?

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Gee, I probably forgot it!

fight.gifEmm, keep those comments coming... Or else there's gonna be a long no-new-updates period

Jman was first, but I want more ...

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Now did I say I'm working on the next pair of actuators?

P2060566_3.jpg

Gee, I probably forgot it!

fight.gifEmm, keep those comments coming... Or else there's gonna be a long no-new-updates period

Jman was first, but I want more ...

WOW, this is amazing to following, this has giving me way more encouragement, I don't know about others watching your work, but I'd pay for lessons in a heart beat!!

Tonal

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Jman was first, but I want more ...

:blink: Oh...?? Awlrighty then, Mista; ya ask, me delivers:

, Tomi...??? Nooooiiice tune! Ain't it?

Now, one thing we've almost come to blows with the Dragon Lady is regardin' yer fix to align 'n' raise the wing leadin' edge with respect to its proper joint with the fuselage at the wing root; says the Viper Sheila that the copper bit goes all the way through the wing halves, 'n' me says it's just a piece the size which can be seen on the pictures, actin' like a wedge at the wing root to fuselage joint... :deadhorse1: We got a tad rowdy dowdy 'bout it; she made me a double cross-lock to the neck, wrestler style, of which I set myself free with the greatest of ease, 'n' grabbed her at the back of the skull to bang her face against the monitor screen, to the sound of Posebno izdanje linked above for ya.

Tell us; ain't me right, Tomi? Or is the Vesper Lady right...? Bloody AE 'n' everythin,' yet she ain't able to tell the simplest facts 'bout her trade? So, all this time we had to wait for that friggin' #4748 Model Master Duck Egg Blue acrylic paint bottle, to finally find out it's of no use at all, bloke? :tumble:

Yer canopy master is lookin' awesome, Tomster, fella. Whut did ya glue the balsa to the fuselage with, woodworkers' glue or sumthin'? Me thinks ya should notice the Vicodin Lady that yer vac-form example will only fit an enlarged Flankerstein, with those extra four millimetres added behind the canopy half cone, aye? Or me is wrong once again?

Tomeo, bloke; the underside of yer Flankerstein is lookin' massive! Me can only dream of the day ya just add "them" intakes to it. Turtle-speed progress, but progress still. ;) How's everythin' goin' in relation to yer professional career, blokey, yeh? Chopped any heads off already?

Cheers, my dear mad mate from Karlovac, Croatia! :worship: Hope the next update beats December the 21st, 2012.

I have to ask: who are those girls??

WhutGurlz.jpg

Unc²

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Mista; ya ask, me delivers:

, Tomi...??? Nooooiiice tune! Ain't it?

Nope man, you missed it totally... It's

... I just love Faithless :wub:
says the Viper Sheila that the copper bit goes all the way through the wing halves, 'n' me says it's just a piece the size which can be seen on the pictures, actin' like a wedge at the wing root to fuselage joint...

Viking Lady vs. Uncle Uncool 0:1

It's just that small piece, some 4-5 mm long, nothing else. Wedge, well I missed this word for looong time... But that's looong story, too. You brought a smile upon my face :)

So, all this time we had to wait for that friggin' #4748 Model Master Duck Egg Blue acrylic paint bottle, to finally find out it's of no use at all, bloke?

It could be very useful for acrylic wash, once decals are sealed ... :thumbsup:

Yer canopy master is lookin' awesome, Tomster, fella. Whut did ya glue the balsa to the fuselage with, woodworkers' glue or sumthin'? Me thinks ya should notice the Vicodin Lady that yer vac-form example will only fit an enlarged Flankerstein, with those extra four millimetres added behind the canopy half cone, aye? Or me is wrong once again?

Viking Lady vs. Uncle Uncool 1:1

You could (ab)use it for an ordinary Academy Flanker... You'll still have another problem: that STEP on exit half cone...

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You forget that I added +4 mm to the rear half cone, but also I added +4 mm strips to the fuselage right below the canopy... (post #20, pictures 2-4)... You're losing it, man! Even tonal quoted them a few weeks back!

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Regarding glue... while working with balsa I glued it to the fuselage with wood glue. Currently I use Pattex wood express, but I think any brand or product will be useful. For epoxy master on the other hand, I took painter's tape (similar to Tamiya tape but cheap) to ease the separation, with glue side turned to fuselage (yellow stuff on the pic bellow). On top of it came epoxy putty, nothing else.

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Tomeo, bloke; the underside of yer Flankerstein is lookin' massive! Me can only dream of the day ya just add "them" intakes to it. Turtle-speed progress, but progress still.

?! For me the undeside is the same as before I glued wings back. It's just that I have less space for manouvering with the model and 2 pieces less on the bench. Turtle-speed progress, eh? At least I have a saw ... :taunt:

Speaking of progress, I bought Equipage wheels on the eBay, just the other day, I can't wait to get them ... I don't need to explain how critical it was to get those long out-of-production wheels... And then on eBay ...

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Exhaust nozzles from Dreammodel came the other day, too. 3-4 weeks from China... The clue was that Trumpeter molded it's 1/48 J-10 true-to-scale, and since J-10 uses AL-31F engines as on Su-27, this means these nozzles are 1/48 and not 1/50 as from Aires.

Many thanks to haneto for this tip :salute:

Based on some measuing and calculations prior bending, I need to add about 1 mm all around engine covers, to make Flankerstein fit for 1/48 nozzles... With this we come to more filling-sanding-rescribing thing...

The question still remains: how to bend those MFs? I posted this on the Tools 'n' tips section, too..

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Might I suggest drilling holes closer to the sides of the canopy in your vacuumformer to ensure that the warmed plastic pulls down snugly at the sides?

Why not? If you have some experience with vacuforming willing to share with us, please do. I'm always thankful for an advice.

These are 2 mm holes @ 4 mm apart in a row and rows are 5 mm apart from each other.

I tested vacuforming today, but more on this after I get some sleep (it's 1:20 AM here)

Just for the record: We breached 30 000 mark... Current poll results: 74:120 against stretching :P

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