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1/48 CH-46E detailing project


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Everett:

Extraordinary scratch-building. Modellers today are blessed with a dazzling array of after-market parts, decals, and conversion sets. It's truly a pleasure to see that the art of turning plastic and wire into miniature details is not dead. Keep up the great work, this is the kind of craftsmanship that gets me back to my workbench!

Marc

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Everett:

Extraordinary scratch-building. Modellers today are blessed with a dazzling array of after-market parts, decals, and conversion sets. It's truly a pleasure to see that the art of turning plastic and wire into miniature details is not dead. Keep up the great work, this is the kind of craftsmanship that gets me back to my workbench!

Marc

-Hear hear ! (well said)

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Thanks everybody for the kind words, it does mean a lot that you guys are enjoying it as much as I am! Quick update here; wanted to show where I am at, working on the aft pylon area again, adding more to the CC resin peice where the oil cooler is, running Hydraulics and wireing, more still ahead. Also finished the push/pull arms that go up the rear bulkhead, they are part of the flight contol and go to the swash plate and take the pilot's cyclic input. No fly by wire here! As a former crew chief told me in an e-mail "state of the art in the 1960s." Also if you look you can see how I have left stretched sprue from some of the Hydraulic lines hanging, this gives you an idea of my method, glueing it into place one section at a time and going slowly. I also am not 100% sure how it goes up and over the syncro drive shaft, anybody out there have a photo you can share? Thanks for looking, Everett

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finishing up the rear pylon/ intake bulkhead area, as can be seen lot's of brass and stretched sprue (blue), and evergreen plastic card and tubes! I am not 100% happy with the mount for the EAPS filters, the brass steps that are in the center, the angles are a little off as is the support tubes underneath but I after 3-4 tries (starting over with new parts) I think it's close enough! Right now I am stumped over the last two Hydralic lines and where they go, they are not installed yet. Anyways onward and upward!

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Thanks again for the support guys!

I don't know if you guys remember that I bought a vacuforming machine a few months ago, I finally decided to give it a go while I waited for paint to dry (gave it a coat of yellow zinc oxide) and had a small disaster! I went to remove plastci sheet from the oven (you have to warm it first) and at that exact moment the hose from my dyson sliped from the kitchen counter and sent the forward pylon doors that I wanted to form (I was using the kit parts as masters) flying into the bottom of the oven where they melted before I could reach them (burned my oven mitts on the heating element)! Ahghhh! On top of that the vacuform machine did not work very well (I had a rotor head part to form also), I don't think it was sealed well, the Dyson vacums have a weird hose that has a handel right next to the tube so it was hard to make it work. It sucks! A little vacuform humor. I will give it another go next week when I have the time.

Luckly I have that extra kit to take the doors from, today I cut out the doors and I started to use the heat and smash method to copy them, so I will be OK I hope! The first tries looked OK, but it has such a complex curve and is hard to get right.

Everett

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Thanks again for the support guys!

I don't know if you guys remember that I bought a vacuforming machine a few months ago, I finally decided to give it a go while I waited for paint to dry (gave it a coat of yellow zinc oxide) and had a small disaster! I went to remove plastci sheet from the oven (you have to warm it first) and at that exact moment the hose from my dyson sliped from the kitchen counter and sent the forward pylon doors that I wanted to form (I was using the kit parts as masters) flying into the bottom of the oven where they melted before I could reach them (burned my oven mitts on the heating element)! Ahghhh! On top of that the vacuform machine did not work very well (I had a rotor head part to form also), I don't think it was sealed well, the Dyson vacums have a weird hose that has a handel right next to the tube so it was hard to make it work. It sucks! A little vacuform humor. I will give it another go next week when I have the time.

Luckly I have that extra kit to take the doors from, today I cut out the doors and I started to use the heat and smash method to copy them, so I will be OK I hope! The first tries looked OK, but it has such a complex curve and is hard to get right.

Everett

Sorry to hear Everett. But at least you had a backup option. I'll be following your vacforming progress with interest, need to do some of my own.

Hopefully you'll get the bugs worked out and have some progress before too long. :(

BTW, damn nice work so far.

mason

Edited by doupnik
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  • 2 weeks later...

Posted this in the Tools 'n' Tips section but wanted to ask you guys too;

Anybody out there use the MICRO-MARK PRO-ETCH PHOTO ETCH SYSTEM? I have wondered about it for a long time and put it on my x-mas list this year (don't know if the wife will go for it) is it hard or easy to use? I imagine you use MS Paint to "draw" the design but how do you know what size it will be wthout printing it out? Can you use a flat scanner (not that I have one) to scan in an image of the kit or part and then use that for the correct dimensions? I am getting more and more into scratch building and even though I am working with brass I would love to be able to make PE parts for my projects. Is this as easy as they say or huge headache that takes lot's of trial and error to pull off? Or somehwere in the middle. Thanks for the info, Everett

You can buy it here:

http://www.micromark.com/MICRO-MARK-PRO-ET...YSTEM,8346.html

This how to doesn't explain much:

https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instru...3123proetch.htm

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Sorry to hear about your mishap.

As I'm about to try my thermo-forming machine for the first time you scared me just a little bit.

Thanks for the link PE-tool; indeed a very interesting product.

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Posted this in the Tools 'n' Tips section but wanted to ask you guys too;

Anybody out there use the MICRO-MARK PRO-ETCH PHOTO ETCH SYSTEM? I have wondered about it for a long time and put it on my x-mas list this year (don't know if the wife will go for it) is it hard or easy to use? I imagine you use MS Paint to "draw" the design but how do you know what size it will be wthout printing it out? Can you use a flat scanner (not that I have one) to scan in an image of the kit or part and then use that for the correct dimensions? I am getting more and more into scratch building and even though I am working with brass I would love to be able to make PE parts for my projects. Is this as easy as they say or huge headache that takes lot's of trial and error to pull off? Or somehwere in the middle. Thanks for the info, Everett

You can buy it here:

http://www.micromark.com/MICRO-MARK-PRO-ET...YSTEM,8346.html

This how to doesn't explain much:

https://www.micromark.com/html_pages/instru...3123proetch.htm

Looks interesting. As far as drawing the parts, I would use Illustrator or another vector drawing program to draw them at the dimensions that you need. You could do a combination of scanning and redrawing with Photoshop and Illustrator. I haven't used MS Paint, so I don't know what you can do with it.

The set looks interesting, but I think some of those chemicals are pretty vicious.

mason

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A small update on where I am at, and also a small reply to Oliver, by the way looking good with the cowling. I am working on the cabin heater and have the front and center but wanted to show the rear part in it's raw form. I saw Oliver talking about green squadron putty and told him how I like Bondo and here it is. First I started with the evergreen tube that I bent over a cabdel and then glued bigger sections in a steping fashion to get a taper, covered in bondo now. I like how I can use Tamyia thin glue to blend the bondo into shape after I apply it, it saves on sanding chunks of it off, you can even wipe away excess with a paper towel easily. I will be sanding the part latter but there is the begining of the shape. Also here is the PE bending tools I got, they work well but the Tamia plyers don't fit together that well and have a small mismatch, not very precise for $30+ but they are useful.

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http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o217/evnewsphoto/IMG_3098.jpg[/img

Happy thanksgiving everybody!

Edited by evnewsphoto
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A small update on where I am at, and also a small reply to Oliver, by the way looking good with the cowling. I am working on the cabin heater and have the front and center but wanted to show the rear part in it's raw form. I saw Oliver talking about green squadron putty and told him how I like Bondo and here it is. First I started with the evergreen tube that I bent over a cabdel and then glued bigger sections in a steping fashion to get a taper, covered in bondo now. I like how I can use Tamyia thin glue to blend the bondo into shape after I apply it, it saves on sanding chunks of it off, you can even wipe away excess with a paper towel easily. I will be sanding the part latter but there is the begining of the shape. Also here is the PE bending tools I got, they work well but the Tamia plyers don't fit together that well and have a small mismatch, not very precise for $30+ but they are useful.

IMG_3104.jpg

IMG_3099.jpg

IMG_3102.jpg

IMG_3101.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o217/evnewsphoto/IMG_3098.jpg[/img

Happy thanksgiving everybody!

Hi Everett.

I use a blade instead of the provided plastic blade.

Good progress.

OLiver

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A few little things, a rework of the forward transmission to correctly show the rotor brake and the number 1 reservoir, thanks to some great new photos I got from Randy Smith (thanks again!). Also I have finished the cabin heater but have to paint it first before I install it. In case you are wondering the "tank" at the top of the heater is supposed to look crumpled and beat up, I think it must be made of cheap tin on the real thing and seems to get banged up over the years. The really hard part of the heater was getting the correct texture on the main tube part in the middle, I wraped it in brass mesh then used Aluminum foil over it, I am very pleased with the result since it closely matches the real thing. The part sitting next to it on the fueslage is some sort of fluid reservoir that mounts on the upper supports faceing backwards. Also more Bondo, this time I was blending in the edges for the cover on the the APU bay so I can paint it again and finish up the rear pylon. I will close the small gap where the APU exhaust is after I finish installing it since the part will not fit otherwise. Thanks for looking! Everett

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Edited by evnewsphoto
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