M-551 Sheridan in Progress UPDATED

[Flyingfortress]

I'll be doing an M-551 being I've never done one plus it's just a cool little tank. For the photos,I switched to ImageShack because my Photobucket screwed up again! Anyway,I found this picture and was trying to figure out how to replicate the chain link fence they used to defend against RPGs. I found a splatter shield the wife uses to keep grease and stuff from splattering when she cooks. I 'borrowed' a piece,wonder if she'll notice?

Now I wonder which one I should build?

Body Count

Canary Cage

******** 7

Edited February 28, 2010 by Flyingfortress

[Dave Shaw]

Wedding veil is a good replication if you can find the type that is square. That should be no chore in a fabrics store… Hey I’m a poet and don’t know it!

What you have doesn't look too bad if not a little on the thick side. I have seen where it was rolled up and stashed on the track somewhere and then unrolled around the track when they set in for the night. if you are going to have it rolled I would go with the veil because it is easier to work with. I also put a piece of stiff wire in the roll so I could bend it a bit to get a nice sag in the middle.

Let the games begin...

Whose kit?

Dave

Edited February 13, 2010 by Dave Shaw

[smutz]

Hi, Verlinden do a fine vynl type mesh think its for helmets & camo netting that might do the job, BTW are you going to add on any of the legends stuff for the sheridan?

Andy.

[Huey Gunner]

Still waiting on that M-42?

PS- Canary Cage

[jeffryfontaine]

The wedding veil material is called Tulle and that is what you need to ask for at any fabric shop. They will take care of you. It is cheap and definitely a better value for your modeling money than anything offered by the model accessory and conversion concessions. This material is available in a variety of colors with the same size mesh pattern.

Edited February 14, 2010 by jeffryfontaine

[Murph]

Another option for "mesh" are the small fish nets sold at pet supply stores.

Regards,

Murph

[Dave Shaw]

Thanks guys! Any tips on fabricating the frame work the 'fence' attaches to or just use some L angle styrene stock?

Well when I was in the Army we didn't have any chain link fence but we did carry concertina wire and we used "U" shaped pickets to hold it in place. Our Bradley’s were issued 7 pickets a piece (IIRC). I would venture a SWAG that they would have used the same thing back in Viet Nam. Don’t forget, you'll want to include a "picket pounder" with your BII (basic issue items). A detail often over looked when modeling. A picket pounder is nothing more than a heavy piece of steel pipe, about two feet long and a big enough diameter to fit over a picket, with a plate welded on one end and grab handles welded to the side. Don’t worry about exact size, these are made from scrap steel and no two that I ever saw were exactly the same.

What I read… along time ago was that the fence was put up only at night so they wouldn’t need anything fancy.

I suppose they would also put it up if they were in an AA (assembly area) or pulling guard on a fire base or something of that nature. If the latter is the case, more than likely the track would be sitting “hull down†in a fighting position.

Okay enough rambling…

Dave Shaw

[Dave Shaw]

Cool info! Ramble away!

Just found this pic of a couple of GI's from the 1/77th AR pounding some pickets...

http://www.steeltigers.org/gallery_iraq06.php

Brings back the memories in more than one way, My first unit was 5/77 AR.

Dave Shaw

[Wayne S]

For chain link fence, I do not have anyway of checking now tho. If I recall right the bags of potatoes with the netting works good.

[HeavyArty]

The kit itself is OK. There are many issues with the angles and shape of the turret. The worst part of it is the tracks though. The track is molded without the rubber track pads in place. The empty squares on each track block should have a rubber pad in it. They can be fixed by a lengthy process of replicating each pad with a piece of sheet plastic, putty, or I have heard liquid gasket making material works well too. Another option is to get the Fruil metal tracks for it. They look good, but are as much as or more expensive than the kit itself. Also, you could replace the track with the old Tamiya M551 Sheridan tracks, but these lack all details on the inside face. So either way, you are left with inferior tracks.

This pic will illustrate the tracks issue.

Here is a very in-depth review of the Academy M551 kit at Armorama.

Good luck.

[Dave Shaw]

Wow Sean,

That is looking REAL good. You sure have come a long way in a short time from the Sherman that made me forget about aircraft. Your paint job is looking great. I like the fading, it looks just right.

Keep up the great work Buddy,

Dave Shaw

[Tank]

Looking good, I would rework the back shield on the commanders hatch to remove the ejection pin marks. You can sand down (a small set of files works great for this) or use a blade to remove the raised ones and fill or add a thin sheet of plastic to cover up holes.

[HeavyArty]

Looking pretty good. One quick note though. The tail lights are off. Only the upper left oval should be red. The others should have black slits. They are part of the blackout drive/marker light system. It should look the same as the M113 below.

Edited March 2, 2010 by HeavyArty

[Ro-Gar Hobbies]

B) Wow Sean, it came out nice. I love how you simulated the fence on the bow of the vehicle. Great job! I have used that thread trick many of times way back when the only Panther available was the old Tamiya kit with the rubber tracks, glad it worked out for you.

Robert

[smutz]

Hi, great job after seeing the slagging off this kit took on Armourama mine went in to the loft it's coming down now.

Andy :(

[ChernayaAkula]

Nice work, Sean! Came out beautiful!

[HOLMES]

COOL!!!

Lovely Job Sean......

[GreyGhost]

Sean, your skills are getting better and better with each build !

This is looking fantastic ....

Gregg