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Trumpeter 1/48 P-40B WIP


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EDIT: So rather than start a new thread, why not just get this one going as my WIP.. I know i can learn alot from you pro's out there.. Will Post pics of current progress tomorrow.

I am building my 2nd model, it is the 1/48th scale Trumpeter P-40B. There is a hole on the starboard side just behind the pilot, window will be over this part.

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This is no my picture but it shows what I am talking about.. Here are my instructions: (i have all my pages located here: instructions

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Any help would be great.. I haven't lost any parts and the instructions don't seem so show me anything.. any help would be great!!!

Edited by tragik
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Don't Panic Tragik. (Poet and didn't know it!) The hole is supposed to be there. It was there on the real plane, too.

Breath deep,

Jay

hehe, funny thing many many years ago when i was deep into gaming. my gamer tag was "tragikpoet"..

anyways.. thanks soooo much.. I was soo worried.. I have all the eduard PE on this thing (first time doing an airplane and PE at the same time) so i was worried i missed something or going crazy..

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So, I have started to build my first airplane and 2nd model. This is a Trumpeter 1/48 p-40b with eduard PE for cockpit, flaps and gauges. Also resin wheels and aftermarket decals. I hope these images are not to large and if they are please tell me..

The cockpit was done in these steps;

- put all parts that are to be painted int. green

- prime with tamiya white

- paint int. green

- add any parts that needed to be not painted

- tried to dry brush detail (lots of learning needed there!!!)

- used silver paint pen for simulated chips, didn't like result.. especially after wash step

- added oil wash to 'dirty' up cockpit (which destroyed/melted paint pen markings)

- wiped excess wash

- laid down a MM clear coat.. (here is where it kinda went south even more :) )

Side note, did add future to gauges to try and simulate glass. Sorry, the flash to the camera REALLY makes the mistakes STAND out.. lol

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Figure that is enough torture, or laughter for one night.. :)

Now, anything and everything I know of modeling I been reading through these forums.. Now, i am sure due to lack of experience is my failure and only time/practice will help me.. But if anyone has any suggestions or thoughts how i could improve next time or now don't be shy..

Thank you

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Great work so far, especially the PE!

Unfortunately, the fuel filler caps were actually on the port side. The factory photo is part of a series, several of which were accidentally reversed (look lettering on the toolbox and workstand.)

Also, the area under the rear windows should be the same as the rest of the exterior, rather than the cockpit color.

SN

Edited by Steve N
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Steve is right about the reverse image, the storage compartment door that is open on the fuselage is only on the left side of the airplane.

I could suggest that at least maybe go back and paint out the weathering on the leather headrest. Also, instead of a silver paint pen, use a silver colored pencil, comes out alot better than any paint pen mostly it would go on alot more flush. I use them, the trick is to actually strike the model with it, being careful to hit straight on so it doesnt glance off and leave stray marks which kill the affect your going for.

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Great work so far, especially the PE!

Unfortunately, the fuel filler caps were actually on the port side. The factory photo is part of a series, several of which were accidentally reversed (look lettering on the toolbox and workstand.)

Also, the area under the rear windows should be the same as the rest of the exterior, rather than the cockpit color.

SN

Thanks for the clarification regarding the color behind the windows.. i 'thought' i read that it was to be int color and not ext. colors.. I have not put on the windows so you saved me there! The part behind the pilot i was not quite done yet because I was still unsure of fit and color.. Thanks for the great words regarding the PE

Steve is right about the reverse image, the storage compartment door that is open on the fuselage is only on the left side of the airplane.

I could suggest that at least maybe go back and paint out the weathering on the leather headrest. Also, instead of a silver paint pen, use a silver colored pencil, comes out alot better than any paint pen mostly it would go on alot more flush. I use them, the trick is to actually strike the model with it, being careful to hit straight on so it doesnt glance off and leave stray marks which kill the affect your going for.

I will try and paint out the weather.. DUMB QUESTION time.. what if i laid down some future? The white started AFTER I sprayed down the flat MM clear coat.. Did i do something wrong? I did thin out the clear coat rather than spray right from the bottle. Has this happened to anyone before, spray flat clear coat and dries cloudy?

was afraid to post my progress/failures but so much I can learn from you guys/gals.

Thanks

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"Unfortunately, the fuel filler caps were actually on the port side. The factory photo is part of a series, several of which were accidentally reversed (look lettering on the toolbox and workstand.)"

Dang!!! I should've caught that. Glad the storage compartment hatch wasn't a snake! It would've bitten me! Nevertheless, some P-40s did have an opening on the starboard side as well. It was an opening: not the fuel caps as on the port. Page 68 in Bert Kinzey's P-40 in Detail (below) illustrates it quite well. The opening is clearly under the glass and has no cap. What it is, I don't know. Maybe a vent of some sort? If anyone knows, please speak up. Even more confusing is it isn't on every plane. The top three pics clearly show it but it isn't visible on the two bottom left pics.

Tragik - Looking good so far, especially your PE. Be careful, though, if you're using the kit cockpit floor. The Trumpeter kit is notoriously shallow. From your pics, it looks like the bottom edge of the PE sidewall extends below the attachment point for the cockpit floor. I hope it doesnt interfere.

Jay

P-40page-1.jpg

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Hey man!

I will be starting my own in progress thread soon. I think it will slow me down enough and will cause me to not rush and fail at my models like I have done for the last 5. All your work is looking really solid so far. Especially after only your second model. I have not yet ventured into the world of PE so I might ask you a couple things myself on that.

As far as the "cloudiness", I believe that is what people refer to when they talk about "frosting". I have had it happen to me twice while applying a flat coat. The first time was from pollyscale flat. Unfortunately, despite how good people said it was, there are a couple of bottles out there which I think were bad and thus gave out a lot of this frosting. The second time was when I sprayed my model with Tamiya Flat Base. That second one was completely my fault and also a big no no. Flat base is good for mixing with stuff like future or Tamiya clear and is not supposed to ever be used as a flattening agent alone. It will certainly ruin the paint job and make it all go white.

I think the problem arises when there is too much flattening agent. In your case it could come from a series of things. I am not familiar with MM but make sure to check that it is not a flat base like Tamiya's. Second I can think of is that perhaps you didn't shake it or stir it well enough to get it to mix. All the flattening agent could have perhaps settled to the top and you may have sprayed only the flattening agent while the reducer in the paint got left behind. Third, you may simply have a bad bottle in your hands. Lets let some other people chime in on this too and see what they have to say. I am not exactly certain what the causes of this problem may be.

To fix it, you may want to try to spray a gloss coat over the model. I have heard of people who have rescued frosting issues at times by respraying future, or any gloss coat to cancel out the effects of the flat. It might work in this situation. Give it a try and see if it works!

Carlos

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It wasn't mixed good enough. I have had this happen before. You can future it again, but that won't fix it all or you can try flashing it with some Lacquer thinner. Be very very careful with the second suggestion though! You can also wash it with some tan chalk abd say the canopy was left open in a sand storm...lol

Curt

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Dang!!! I should've caught that. Glad the storage compartment hatch wasn't a snake! It would've bitten me! Nevertheless, some P-40s did have an opening on the starboard side as well. It was an opening: not the fuel caps as on the port. Page 68 in Bert Kinzey's P-40 in Detail (below) illustrates it quite well. The opening is clearly under the glass and has no cap. What it is, I don't know. Maybe a vent of some sort? If anyone knows, please speak up. Even more confusing is it isn't on every plane. The top three pics clearly show it but it isn't visible on the two bottom left pics.

Tragik - Looking good so far, especially your PE. Be careful, though, if you're using the kit cockpit floor. The Trumpeter kit is notoriously shallow. From your pics, it looks like the bottom edge of the PE sidewall extends below the attachment point for the cockpit floor. I hope it doesnt interfere.

Jay

Sweet thanks for more reference pictures to ensure i am not crazy.. About the PE.. You are VERY correct.. but in the picture showing 'firewall' or back plate of the instrument panel you will see a L beam on the nose side. This is a PE part and it raises the wall to a new higher level. The instrument panel has a PE part that also raises that, if you look at the seat you will notice it is sitting on a PE block. Now, there is a REASON for all this raising up but the instructions from Eduard has failed to show why.. lol.. If you put the cockpit in like it should into the groves then the sidewalls are in the way.. But if you put the rear part of the cockpit into the grove and the front part of the cockpit UNDER the grove it fits.. I saw this fit error (when done by directions) it really made me second guess Eduard and all the parts. Then I asked 'why did i add the L part to raise this' and 'why is the seat raised and the gauges'.. I double and triple checked my PE placement and it was all correct. Then I noticed the back part fit ok just not the front and moved the front UNDER the grove.. Eduard, that was a mean trick to play on a noob.. lol..

Hey man!

I will be starting my own in progress thread soon. I think it will slow me down enough and will cause me to not rush and fail at my models like I have done for the last 5. All your work is looking really solid so far. Especially after only your second model. I have not yet ventured into the world of PE so I might ask you a couple things myself on that.

As far as the "cloudiness", I believe that is what people refer to when they talk about "frosting". I have had it happen to me twice while applying a flat coat. The first time was from pollyscale flat. Unfortunately, despite how good people said it was, there are a couple of bottles out there which I think were bad and thus gave out a lot of this frosting. The second time was when I sprayed my model with Tamiya Flat Base. That second one was completely my fault and also a big no no. Flat base is good for mixing with stuff like future or Tamiya clear and is not supposed to ever be used as a flattening agent alone. It will certainly ruin the paint job and make it all go white.

I think the problem arises when there is too much flattening agent. In your case it could come from a series of things. I am not familiar with MM but make sure to check that it is not a flat base like Tamiya's. Second I can think of is that perhaps you didn't shake it or stir it well enough to get it to mix. All the flattening agent could have perhaps settled to the top and you may have sprayed only the flattening agent while the reducer in the paint got left behind. Third, you may simply have a bad bottle in your hands. Lets let some other people chime in on this too and see what they have to say. I am not exactly certain what the causes of this problem may be.

To fix it, you may want to try to spray a gloss coat over the model. I have heard of people who have rescued frosting issues at times by respraying future, or any gloss coat to cancel out the effects of the flat. It might work in this situation. Give it a try and see if it works!

Carlos

Carlos, ask away man about the PE.. Thanks for the suggestions about the 'cloudy' effect.. I think you are correct on why, I don't think I mixed well enough or thin enough.. I remember it was VERY thick when i sprayed it..

Dude that is wicked nice work. Who you kidding callin' yourself a newb?

Looks like the Trumpy Warhawk "trumps" the old Monogram kit.

--------------------

DAVID

Thanks for the kind words on my work so far.. lol.. Well, when i get like more experience then i wont be so noob.. lol.. Well, i purchased the revell/monogram kit first and found that there was NO PE for it.. so i had to order the trump. kit from japan..

It wasn't mixed good enough. I have had this happen before. You can future it again, but that won't fix it all or you can try flashing it with some Lacquer thinner. Be very very careful with the second suggestion though! You can also wash it with some tan chalk abd say the canopy was left open in a sand storm...lol

Curt

Thanks that's what i did to fix it.. i painted future with a brush very thin.. It has helped but not fixed it 100% for me.. I will just keep moving forward. Will post pics later of the after effect.

Thanks everyone for the kind words and i am glad it isn't horrible looking..

Edited by tragik
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Some updated photos,

- first one is an example of the cockpit sits lower now with the PE.

- gave my windows a Future bath, first time trying not to bad.. Thanks ARC for all the tips in the forums.

- Gave the cockpit a future bath, but rather than spray it in a thick coat I brushed it on VERY thin.. Head pad looks a little better

- Metalizers (i have MM) are a fear of mine as well, the rear landing gear and nose guns were primed in Tamiya white primer, then Gloss Black and then aluminum plate for the landing gear and then gun metal for the guns. After this photo and the guns were dry I dry brushed Steel.

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Nice recovery, Tragik! I think all that work has given the cockpit an authentic "worn" appearance. Just remember to do it on all your models, now! :D

Jay

lol thanks Jay.. yea, but with each one i can only get better right?? ::: crickets chirping::: guys?? :doh:

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Nice work on the Cockpit! It seems like you rescued the forsting issues and actually somehow managed to come out as good as if it hadn't happened. Some call that luck. Modelers who know their trade know that it actually takes skill! Anyone can dig their way into a mess, it is good modelers who dig their way out.

I don't know how you think you are a noob though lol. Your work seems pretty legit to me.

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Thanks for the great comments and suggestions.. Last night I put the two halves of the airplane together and it fit pretty good.. Granted i remember reading/seeing a 'how to' glue them together in 1inch phases rather than just pour glue everywhere and then smash together..

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Tragik,

Here's a link to a thread on another forum where they are talking about the glass aft of the cockpit if you're curious.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/mess...t%3B+vs+P40+B-C

Jay

Thanks so much, that really shows me the difference and what everything is.. !! I have had my family over for the past 10 days and boy it has put a 'all stop' on my modeling.. I did get the fuselage put together with the parts on the nose done. It did NOT fit well and needed some love with putty.. Not to mention I was greeted with "sean, you never done re-scribing or rivets but welcome to it!!" lol.. Will post pics once i get going..

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