Brush Marks

[lordish]

I'm working on a Mosquito and I'm hand painting it for my airbrush is missing it's siphon tube.

How does one get out bad brush marks? Wet ultra fine sandpaper?

lordish

[HOLMES]

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/kalmbachcat...12257spread.pdf

Have a look and see if this helps...

HOLMES

[The Loggie]

G'Day Lordish. Yes - remove brush-marks with a fine sanding paper. Then, repaint.

To AVOID brush-marks, follows these rules:

1 - choose your paint carefully. Tamiya acrylic is only brushable by experience brushers. I brush with Citadel Miniatures acrylics (it appears to self-level) and dot with Humbrol acrylics. Dunno about other paint brands.

2 - brush from dry to wet (brushing from wet to dry CREATES brush-marks).

3 - plan on at least two thin coats. The first should be across the airflow. The last should be in the direction of the airflow.

4 - your call as to whether the coat needs a LIGHT (wet?) sanding between coats. Too often, sanding removes the paint from the high points and corners. A coat of Future can also smooth a brushed coat of paint, because it self-levels, too.

Experiment on scrap (or the inside of the wings) first. Good luck. George, out....................

[Thorsten Wieking]

The right typ of paint, the right viscosity(?), the right brush and two or more thin coats. To be honest - once you are used to the quality you can achive with an airbrush, you will have a hard time using a paint brush with results that satisfy you. The only time I am really happy with my results is on my Warhammer 40.000 miniatures, because for some reason I can hardly put in words, I can live with the brush painting on those models. Much harder to accept on models of "real" objects.

When using Tamiya paints - use their X-20A thinner.

When using Revell Aquas or Citadel Colors (or any other water based color) - try to lower the surface tension of the water (for thining the paint) by adding a small drop (actually the fraction of a drop) of dish washing detergent.

Put your paint on a "wet tablet"

http://www.fantasyladen.de/Suche/shop.shtm...kel=Fan_Palette

http://www.maxpaint.de/forum/kb-hilfsmitte...asspalette.html

If possible, try to either prime the model so that the color has something to adhere to or at least scrub the model with very fine steel wool. Scrubbing milk with an old tooth brush seems to work too.

And maybe most important - lower your expectations in regards to the quality of the paint job.

Cheers

Thorsten

[johnsan]

When using Tamiya acrylics, use their X-20A thinner AND their Paint Retarder (Acrylic). This is a fairly new product and makes brushing Tamiya acrylic paints very easy.

[hooknladderno1]

As above, it depends upon the paint that you are using. I have had success with PollyScale, and Testors Acryl and to a certain extent Tamiya. With the first two, add some Liquitex Retarder Medium, and a little of their Flow-Aid. You may need a little distilled water with the PollyScale or Acryl thinner for the Acryl as well. With the Tamiya, use the above Liquitex products, and a little of their brand thinner. The only challenge, is that the first coat of some acrylics will lift with the second application of a brush coat. This problem can be solved by a thin coat of Future between coats. Hope this helps.

David

[roccio]

Can the tamiya retarder be used with gunze colors?