Evolution or Infinity

[Calixis]

Having spent a long time (the past month) reading assorted Airbrush reviews, opinions on whether cheap learning brushes are a good idea or a false economy and assorted other such views on airbrushing, I've narrowed my choice down to two.

The Infinity (2-in-1) or the Evolution 2-in-1. The Infinity's pressure control seems like a good learning tool to help prevent mistakes, though the .15 nozzle is probably a bit small for what I'll mostly be using it for (Camo on 1:35 and 1:48 tanks).

The evolution isn't as well-presented, but is £60 cheaper. It hasn't got the same level of control as the Infinity but the price difference is enough to make me consider.

Ideally I'd love to hear back from anyone who has both, or certainly at least one on the long-term use of the AB, how they compare etc.

Thanks

[Patrick_Nevin]

Having spent a long time (the past month) reading assorted Airbrush reviews, opinions on whether cheap learning brushes are a good idea or a false economy and assorted other such views on airbrushing, I've narrowed my choice down to two.

The Infinity (2-in-1) or the Evolution 2-in-1. The Infinity's pressure control seems like a good learning tool to help prevent mistakes, though the .15 nozzle is probably a bit small for what I'll mostly be using it for (Camo on 1:35 and 1:48 tanks).

The evolution isn't as well-presented, but is £60 cheaper. It hasn't got the same level of control as the Infinity but the price difference is enough to make me consider.

Ideally I'd love to hear back from anyone who has both, or certainly at least one on the long-term use of the AB, how they compare etc.

I've got one of each: 0.15/0.2 Infinity and Evolution Silverline Fineline brushes. They're both great tools. Used the Evo for the last couple of years and Infinity for six months. Bent one needle (user stupidity), put a fair bit of paint through both, no sings of aging on either.

For my money, if I had to choose one I'd have the Evolution, with the Infinity front end on it (they swap.) There was an amusing discussion here not too long ago about MAC valves, which seemed to revolve around the concept of their being crap because such and such a manufacturer doesn't make one. I personally find the fpc MAC equivalent valve on the Evolution (you can get the Infinity converted to take one, but it's not off the shelf) is a useful gadget that is well worth having.

The two-prong Infinity front end is slightly nicer and more versatile than the circular Evolution one.

The Evo, well the Silverline one anyway actually has a finish that looks like it'll last longer than the anodised rear of the Infinity. Though the gold plated, drilled for lightness trigger cam is a delight on the eye.

Advise you invest in the cleaning brush and reamer that H&S do, either way. They're easy to clean, but the tools simplify this still further.

\2p, YMMV, HTH, Patrick

[terryt]

I have the Infinity and a XL2000, both use the same tips/needles/air caps. If I had gotten the XL2000 (older version of the Evolution Sliverline M) I wouldn't have gotten the Infinity. I would go with the Evolution for the price difference if price is a consideration.

[DutyCat]

I have been using a Paasche H and V combo for 20 years. I think the H is the finest general purpose airbrush made. However, even though I can get pretty fine lines with the V under optimum conditions, I feel that perhaps airbrush technology has advanced a bit. At JaxCon, there was a H & S rep who did a pretty convincing demo with the Infinity, and they had that slick little super quiet black compressor to go along with it. So I got them both and all of the little extras. It ended up setting me back almost $500. I have used the compressor once with my H. Nice and quiet and pushes over 40 PSI easy if you need it. I have yet to use the Infinity, but it is a thing of beauty and I am sure it will do what it is designed to do. I would hold them both in your hand and see which you feel more comfortable with. Regarding the comment above about durability of the anodized aluminum finish.....I would not worry about that as my two Paasches have plastic rear bodies and have been trouble free for 20 years. Airbrushes are precision instruments. They are not going to be subjected to abuse in the hands of a serious hobby craftsman.

I might also mention that I have been using a braided hose with an inline moisture trap forever, but I found the plastic clear one that comes with the compressor to be lighter and less burdensome. I am probably just going to stick with it unless it gives me trouble.

Edited February 28, 2010 by DutyCat

[richter111]

Thought this was a discussion on the early (2nd stage ) Journey albums...

[Patrick_Nevin]

Thought this was a discussion on the early (2nd stage ) Journey albums...

Who?

And DutyCat, sir - there's careful, and there's simple masochism. Anodised aluminium is for disposable wannabe racing motorcycles (and, I see in a particularly girly shade of purple, V-22 undercarriage.) For the rest of us in the real world there's stainless, the choice of champions. Although if H&S had an option in heat-treated Titanium, I'd be good for an extra $50, and I bet a lot of others would, too...

Patrick

[Chuck1945]

Infinity looks cooler, Evo works just as well. This from someone who has both. The Evo Silverline (at least mine) does have a needle pull adjustment as well as an air pressure adjustment. Personally, I dont use either since the outlet air pressure dial for my compressor is in easy reach and since I have been using double action airbrushes for almost 30 years, long before needle pull settings were added, I have never felt the need to start - old dogs and new tricks I suspect.

I build 1/72 aircraft and 80% of the time use a 0.20mm tip/needle combo, perhaps 5% using the 0.15mm set and the rest of the time the 0.4mm for general larger area coverage or applying Future. Fot 1/35 armor, I would think the 0.4 and 0.2 combos would work better for you.

One observation, the needles have a very fine taper meaning a long point that can be damaged if you are careless. I would encourage getting a spare needle, 'just in case', at least for the smaller sizes. The reamer tool is also worth getting, mixed opinion on the cleaning brushes - I use the small dental cleaning brushes and those seem to work fine, I seldom bother with the official H&S set of brushes.

If money is no object, get whichever you prefer, if price matters, the Evo is a wonderful airbrush. I quit using the Iwata HP-C I had the day my Evo arrived.

[MikeV]

I say neither. Get a Badger Renegade Velocity instead. :lol: ;)

Seriously though, only you can decide which airbrush you want.

Either of the ones you mentioned would more than do anything you will ever need in this hobby.

The only thing I do not like about airbrushes like the H&S and some others is the outrageous price tag. :blink:

Edited March 1, 2010 by MikeV

[MikeV]

There was an amusing discussion here not too long ago about MAC valves, which seemed to revolve around the concept of their being crap because such and such a manufacturer doesn't make one.

I read that thread and saw nothing about anyone saying they were, "crap because such and such a manufacturer doesn't make one."

Did I miss something?

[DutyCat]

Who?

And DutyCat, sir - there's careful, and there's simple masochism. Anodised aluminium is for disposable wannabe racing motorcycles (and, I see in a particularly girly shade of purple, V-22 undercarriage.) For the rest of us in the real world there's stainless, the choice of champions. Although if H&S had an option in heat-treated Titanium, I'd be good for an extra $50, and I bet a lot of others would, too...

Patrick

Yeah, but you see I am from dirt bike world, and my race bikes had anodized aluminim all over them for weight savings.

But I would also go for a Titanium airbrush body if I had the option!

[phantomfan]

Hello,

I'm only a good customer of H&S/HANSA airbrushes, I don't have anything related with them.

The first I bought was the Evolution 2 in 1 (0.2 & 0.4 neddle), with Quick Fix, it works for everything and it's very easy to clean, after 6 years of use I have not demaged anything yet... :)

Then, when the Infinity was released, I was mainly fascinated by the design, so i had to buy another one, this time the 2 in 1 combination provide 0.15 and the 0.4 neddles.

I suppose the 0.15 neddle is the finest available (Iwata stops at 0.18) but I personally think is superfluos for modelling tasks, because could be problems with many paints and the performace is very close to the 0.2 version.

Recently, for touch up works I bought a Grafo T1 at a bargain price, they are "contolled double action", it only cames with 0.15 neddle and fixed 1cc cup, but is very handy because when you fix the paint flow you need just to pull the trigger till you find the good paint/air mix.

One thing to say about all the above menthioned tools is that they have in common all the neddles/nozzles and almost every important parts, so the results are the same

Slightly different is my last acquisition, the Hansa Top Line 281, same manufacturer and quality, same "Fixed double action" system as the Grafo, with 0.2 needle and a 2cc cup I can say it's the most versatile and easy airbrush I have ever used.

So, if you like to give it a try, search for the Hansa Top Line series, cheaper than H&S, otherwise if you are looking for a classic double action my suggestion is to go with the EVOLUTION SILVERLINE 2 in 1 (0.2/0.4 neddle, 2&5cc cup), you can cover all your modelling needs saving some money for something else.

Hope this helps.

Regards.

Marco

Edited March 1, 2010 by phantomfan

[MikeV]

Yeah, but you see I am from dirt bike world, and my race bikes had anodized aluminim all over them for weight savings.

But I would also go for a Titanium airbrush body if I had the option!

Don't worry about it DutyCat, what material an airbrush handle is made of is inconsequential and why someone would bring that up is beyond me.

[gotarheelz14]

Don't worry about it DutyCat, what material an airbrush handle is made of is inconsequential and why someone would bring that up is beyond me.

I would go with the Infinity. They are quite nice and everything on them works just the way it should. With all the customizable options available to it, it can and will do anytying you need it to. If you can though, try and see if you know anyone that has one that you could maybe borrow or use for a few minutes. The trigger feel and overall feel of the brush is not for everyone.

[Patrick_Nevin]

Yeah, but you see I am from dirt bike world, and my race bikes had anodized aluminim all over them for weight savings.

But I would also go for a Titanium airbrush body if I had the option!

Ah, dirt bikes I can truly respect (intend to do some of that this year - deeply envy the seemingly standard skill you guys have with sliding the back ends around.) Over here at least though, there is a mini industry for tricking up road bikes with cheap anodised stuff. Every sports bike with the stuff on looks exactly the same, and the first time they get a bit of road salt on them they fur up and look plain horrible. Stainless doesn't rust, Ti doesn't rust and is light too (used to use Ti bolts - at a fiver a go - on the unsprung bits, glory days :huh:)

Mike, as you've said yourself after a fairly basic point the brushes are going to be better than the users. Past that point the some of the pleasure of using nice brushes is about look and feel. Surely? H&S feel expensive, IMHO. For my money, the Evo Silverline feels nicer than the Infinity though, hence remark...

Patrick

[Kei Lau]

One observation, the needles have a very fine taper meaning a long point that can be damaged if you are careless. I would encourage getting a spare needle, 'just in case', at least for the smaller sizes.

If money is no object, get whichever you prefer, if price matters, the Evo is a wonderful airbrush. I quit using the Iwata HP-C I had the day my Evo arrived.

Chuck, how would you compare the taper of the Evolution vs. that of the HP-C needle? Are the cone section about the same length?

All needle can be damaged if not handled carefully. I have had good experience with the Iwata needle. Would you expect the H&S needle to be more delicate, if so, why?

[Chuck1945]

Chuck, how would you compare the taper of the Evolution vs. that of the HP-C needle? Are the cone section about the same length?

the 0.15mm needle is more tapered then the needle in my HP-C, which has the standard 0.35mm tip. The first time I used the 0.15 needle with my Evo, I managed to bend the tip due to operator carelessness. Rolling it on a piece of glass did a pretty good job of fixing it, but the lesson was learned, care required!

All the cones for H&S brushes, whether it is the 0.15, 0.2, or 0.4 are longer, removable without a special tool, and in general less easy to loose then the cone in the Iwata HP-C

All needle can be damaged if not handled carefully. I have had good experience with the Iwata needle. Would you expect the H&S needle to be more delicate, if so, why?

H&S needles have a finer tip, therefore easier to damage. When not in use, I leave the needles out of the brushes now, storing them in plastic tubes with a little foam padding at the sharp end of the needles. While I have read some criticism regarding Iwata parts including needles, my own experience was satisfactory, the HP-C seemed pretty much indestructible.

[MikeV]

Mike, as you've said yourself after a fairly basic point the brushes are going to be better than the users. Past that point the some of the pleasure of using nice brushes is about look and feel. Surely? H&S feel expensive, IMHO. For my money, the Evo Silverline feels nicer than the Infinity though, hence remark...

Patrick

To each his own my friend. I look at the end result coupled with price to recommend an airbrush for someone.

Shiny and fancy don't mean much to me really. Coming from a family of master heavy equipment mechanics it reminds me of people arguing over end wrenches.

Some will say that Snap On are the best and they are nice and very shiny and all but they do not take bolts off or hold up any better than Mac Tools, Proto or any of the other well made wrenches out there.

Another example I use is watches. Yes a Rolex is considered the finest watch available for the most part but does it tell time better than a good Seiko or Citizen watch? Not really, it's all a matter of perspective and sometimes I think perspective clouds our rational thinking.

[MoFo]

Yes a Rolex is considered the finest watch available

Not by a long shot. But point taken.

[MikeV]

Not by a long shot. But point taken.

Not by a long shot? Oh brother I can't wait to hear the argument against this.

If the point is taken then why start out your post with an obvious rebuttal?

[little-cars]

Having spent a long time (the past month) reading assorted Airbrush reviews, opinions on whether cheap learning brushes are a good idea or a false economy and assorted other such views on airbrushing, I've narrowed my choice down to two.

The Infinity (2-in-1) or the Evolution 2-in-1. The Infinity's pressure control seems like a good learning tool to help prevent mistakes, though the .15 nozzle is probably a bit small for what I'll mostly be using it for (Camo on 1:35 and 1:48 tanks).

The evolution isn't as well-presented, but is £60 cheaper. It hasn't got the same level of control as the Infinity but the price difference is enough to make me consider.

Ideally I'd love to hear back from anyone who has both, or certainly at least one on the long-term use of the AB, how they compare etc.

Thanks

Just read the thread through, so thought I would give you my experiance as an H&S/Hansa/Grex/Iwata reseller and modeller.

The H&S brushes are very well designed, easy to clean and you can reconfiure the brush if your modelling type changes.

The 0.15mm needle/nozzle is really good for really fine detailed work, so may be of use if you are doing complex camo.

The infinity doesn't have an air pressure control, only a trigger pressure control, which is a little bit of an added gismo.

The reason it is so much more is the quick fix handle, a lot of work and engineering has gone into it.

I have asked if they can produce a version with the fPc valve, but get told there is no demand!

Most people in your position look at the Evolution two in one and the Evolution Silverline fPc two in one.

The standard Evo is a really good general purpose tool, has a fine and larger needle/nozzle/head set.

If you want need control for fine detail work the Evolution Silverline fPc two in one is the one to look at.

Like the Evo 2in1 you have the 2ml & 5ml paint cups and two needle/nozzle/head sizes.

It has the 0.4mm set for area work and the 0.15mm for more detailed work.

From the tests and feedback I've had there doesn't appear to be any problem putting the modelling paint this nozzle as long as it has been thinned corectly.

As well as the 0.15mm nozzle you also get the manual needle stop on the handle and the fPc control (mac valve) on the valve stem as standard.

So you get a fine needle, a backstop for the needle and a secondary air valve, and it is still a lot cheaper than the Infinity two in one .

The infinity head is bought by people (normally for the 0.15/0.2mm nozzle/needle), it gives slightly better airflow when you are close to the subject.

But I recomend that people buy the most appropriate brush and see how they get on.

You can always change the head, needle/nozzle, mac valve and paint cups once you know how the brush works in your situation.

The cleaning brush is brilliant, the right size for the body and nozzle, the metal reamer is worth buying later on if you find that you are clogging the nozzle.

Paul

www.little-cars.co.uk/airbrushes