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Been a long time and the last time I wanted to do a BMF, I got frustrated. However, I'm older and perhaps wiser. Plus, there are just too many nifty goodies for the 1/48 B-58 to ignore it. So, I set my jaw, got the kit and every bit of aftermarket there is. But, none of that can happen until I address the raised panel lines and make the surface of the model look right.

Step one, which will take many evenings of looking under the glass, is rescribing.

Scribing012a.jpg

This I've been doing with a sewing machine needle in a handle. It is omni-directional and doesn't have the tendency to wander off on its own the way the other scribing tools do.

Then, the riveting....a pounce wheel from Sprue Brothers, which I was skeptical of, at first but am now a confirmed believer. I thought the holes would be too aggressive but no.

Scribing016ab.jpg

Also, gleaned from these hallowed pages, I learned how to do a "stressed skin" effect and used a #2 scalpel blade to run perpendicular to the rivet lines to make the skin look "drawn in". I have to be careful not to overdo it as the Hustler was built like a destroyer. But the rippled skin is still there on the real bird. My first efforts may be too pronounced, but ....I don't care.

Finally, after wetsanding with 1200 grit, I make sure that there are no un-scale like gouges in the plastic, which is accomplished by polishing with MaGuires No.2 (red bottle) polish and both using the cotton wheel for the slow Dremel tool and by hand.

Scribing022a.jpg

Scribing027a.jpg

All parts will be rescribed, riveted and polished. Then assembled while correcting along the way. Should only take me...oh......two, three years.

I sit in front of the TV, scriber in hand, looking into my 10X lighted magnifier lamp and try to avoid sending the needle through my finger.

Scribing001a.jpg

Thanks for looking.

:woot.gif:

Edited by VADM Fangschleister
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Dude.

Holy Smoke. That is beautiful..Off to such a nice start, you can just tell where it will end up. This will be stunning.

Could you show us tell us more about stressing the skin? It'd be nice to see more of how it's done. Most of the narrative I've seen has been by modelers who spoke english as a second language, and for me I suspect a bit was lost in the translation-

Really awesome work!

Regards,

Pig

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I have never seen such shiny plastic! :jaw-dropping: great rescribing! how do you clean the freshly scribed lines?they look really neat and tidy awsome stuff!

cheers

brad

Thanks, Brad. Once the scribing is done, I take the part over to the kitchen sink and with my wet/dry 1200 grit paper, I wetsand the part smooth. First, to take down the ridges that rescribing always gives you and to also and simultaneously take down the "brick walls" of the original raised panel lines, which I used as a guide. Of Course, using DYMO embossing tape as a running fence to keep the needle on track. The biggest hassle so far has been with the needle trying to "decide" which side of the raised panel line to stay one. Sometimes it "railroad tracks" over it and then back. And being as I don't have the eyes I used to, I don't notice it until the groove is laid down.

Then, once the part is sanded smooth, I break out the toothbrush and toothpaste. Yup, dental hygiene for rescribing goes a long way. Actually, I get a blob of toothpaste on the brush and start scrubbing the grooves along their length. It cleans them out and sometimes I have to gently run the needle down it to further clean it out or make the line better (deeper) but it's all about moving slowly and checking the work as I go along. All of the tasks are kind of a "do then repeat" sort of thing. No need to rush to results. Slow and steady pays off in this game because once the line is there...it's there. Sure, you can fill it in with superglue if it's a huge flub...but...why waste the time and energy?

Beautiful work. Smooth as a baby's bottom. What are you going to use for the finish?

Paul

Thanks, Paul. I learned a long time ago that the key to a perfect NMF (or in my case, maybe just a "good" one) is preparation, preparation, preparation. The more perfect the basic surface to start, the better the finish. I plan on using Alclad over a base gloss white or black. I'm hunting for a "factory fresh" look to really show off the looks of the Hustler. I may experiment with different things just to play it out in my mind. Final course is undecided but I do have all the Alclad on hand already.

Dude.

Holy Smoke. That is beautiful..Off to such a nice start, you can just tell where it will end up. This will be stunning.

Could you show us tell us more about stressing the skin? It'd be nice to see more of how it's done. Most of the narrative I've seen has been by modelers who spoke english as a second language, and for me I suspect a bit was lost in the translation-

Really awesome work!

Regards,

Pig

Thanks, Pig. Means a lot coming from you. Hopefully I will not reach critical mass too soon and put it aside. There are various sub-tasks that can be done along the way and so far, I have one half of one nacelle done and the left vertical stab/rear fuselage done. Tonight will probably see the other half of the nacelle. I want to get an engine nacelle complete so I can build at least one "sub-assembly" complete with the afterburner (Aires) and the intake (Fisher Products) installed.

There is a great narrative on the stressed metal effect SOMEWHERE in these archives but I will nab some pics later when I am in the middle of it. The one thing that's the most "dangerous" is when the scalpel blade skips and the surface ends up looking haggard instead of nicely grooved out. Then, the wet/dry does its job but it's sometimes hard to see the "damage" which is why I polish the plastic at the end. It shows the flaws better than just the wetsanding.

It doesn't take long at all and I've been pleased with the results so far. I recently got the CD ROM of all the panel and structural details of the B-58 and.....looks like I have a lot of riveting to do. Looks like a row about every 14" or so. Plus all the removable access panels, etc.

But I can put together some sort of tutorial, I'm sure and maybe others will be able to get something out of it. It's really a hoot and when the final polished result is revealed, I squealed like a schoolgirl over the finish. (Scared the dog)

Once the parts are assembled, the puttying and blending will take place, then more line-repair/scribing, then sanding and polishing. Then....the base coat of gloss. No primer as it will ruin the shiny base surface. Then an inspection looking for flaws...then more repair, blending, polishing, etc.

Can't say as I don't have huge ambitions. Just hope reruns on TV will hold up while I do this intense bit of scribing. No football games and I don't watch basketball and the America's Cup was over in two races....*sigh*.

Cover me, I'm goin in.

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We'll go loose deuce, I've got your wing :jaw-dropping::cheers: , or you go low and take the pix, and I'll fly high cover for ya. I've got a "Hustler", next up in the queue so I'll definitely be watching closely. I don't know if I'm gonna go as deep into the AM as you have/are, but for the main build I'm watching, and my concern about re-scribing (I'm taking notes). Like it was said previously, that surface is as smoothe as or smoother than the proverbial baby's bottom. Pete said it, ya just know what this one is look like when finished. Mine not so much :cheers: .

Edited by Angels49
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I think your wet sanding sounds like a great idea..I did not think one could do that without ruining the plastic...

I will be following this closely too as I know Clif has gotten a Hustler and it is ONE of MY Favorites Jets...

Looking very good... :cheers::jaw-dropping:

HOLMES :salute:

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OK, so I got the other half of the nacelle rescribed and have started on the riveting. This post will give a brief overview and some instruction on how to do this. Starring: My fingers.

Starting with the raised panel lines as a guide, I lay down a fresh piece of DYMO label-making tape as a guide so I don't go "off-track" and then, starting with light pressure, I repeatedly score a new line...a gouge really and do this about four or five times to get sufficient depth. No need to try to get it all on one pass, you might break the needle (I have and it flew who-knows-where) as well as go "off-course" and find yourself with a panel line that shouldn't be there of a very odd shape as well.

I do all the lines in one direction first, then the perpendicular lines next. Odd shapes and diagnonals last.

scribing032a.jpg

For the odd access panel, I have a set of templates that I bought from Sprue Bros. They are indispensable. Although in the picture, I'm just holding it on one of the items I used it for, I actually tape it in place to keep it from moving around. Finger pressure alone isn't enough.

scribing033a.jpg

You can also see the raised edges of the rescribing. I will tend to that next.

Using 1200 grit wet/dry, I wetsand the whole part. It is important to put a couple of drops of dish soap in a bowl full of water as it speeds the process along and the paper doesn't gum up on you. I learned that technique in the auto-body business. But, work your way in one direction if possible and HOLMES, no...it doesn't ruin the plastic. Some kit makers have harder plastic than others so testing out different grits is advisable first. My experience told me that 1200 would be just fine, plus I had a lot left over in one of my boxes of "stuff".

scribing035a.jpg

The part after wetsanding. I did not include the toothbrush and toothpaste picture as I could not handle the camera and the messy part at the same time. But, you can also use a toothbrush and polishing compound to clean the grooves out. Works just as well as toothpaste. I just happen to like my model parts "minty fresh".

scribing037a.jpg

Then, I used the pounce wheel to get the rivets in. Every panel on this engine has a row of fasteners on it. And since straight lines are always desirable, I used the DYMO tape yet again. (omitted in this shot) The trick to this thing is that you slowly make one pass where you want to lay down the rivets, then, in short, raking motions, you do a short section at a time, sometimes going back and forth to get the depth. If you try to run it all at one time, you'll again go off track and get a parallel row of rivets. Ask me how I know. Also, it takes practice to know exactly where to put the DYMO tape as you'll want the rows of rivets/fasteners in the right spot. I'm still getting the hang of that. It's not easy. Too close to the groove and it plows right into it. Too far away and the row of rivets looks ridiculous in relation to the panel. Magnifiers also help because if you take the wheel off, you'll want to start back up again but won't easily see where the points line up with the holes. Working slowly with this is key.

scribing040a.jpg

So that's it for this time. Next time I'll show you how the skin is scraped with the scalpel and then polished and so on. I have to get all the rivets and "fasteners" done first as the scalpel is drawn right over the top of them, which makes them a little shallower and also provides that "drawn in" effect.

Thanks for looking.

:monkeydance:

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Thnak you for answerng MY query..that is a great help. :monkeydance:

I just like to say that your techniques of scribing is refreshing to read and I feel as If I slow down to read it

to take in what you say..Love the step by step follow thru..thank you for taking the time to show us that...

I can see this is going to be turning out really EXCEPTIONAL... :taunt:

HOLMES :D

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As one of my heroes would say " Fascinating", while raising his eyebrows, with that droll Vulcan monotone delivery. You have just given me with this less what amounts to a modelers valium.

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Well, I didn't get to the scalpel scraping, sorry.

I did however break out the drawings I got from Scott Lowther's website: Up-Ship with prompt and dependable service...

And, looking to rivet the vertical stab, this is what I ran into.

The drawing- (intentionally blurred)

scribing041b.jpg

The drawing scaled to the fuselage-

scribing042a.jpg

The drawing scaled to the stab-

scribing043a.jpg

In either case, the lines on kit part do not line up with the lines on the drawing. Hmmmm. So, I'm going to have to fake it on the one side and copy that fake on the other side. The kit part doesn't match the outline of the drawing, either...but I'm not so concerned about that. What I wanted was a good depiction of the structural stations on the airframe to give me guidance for the pounce-wheel riveting. Now, it looks as though it will be a close approximation rather than exact. Oh well. But, that's modeling. At least I can come up with something that will look the part. It won't be 100% accurate but it'll be close.

Thanks for looking.

:coolio:

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Looking really good so far! It's a great subject - I have always liked the B-58.

For what it's worth, the outlines on the drawings are not necessarily accurate either. The real value in these drawings are the numbers and dimentions. After using these types of drawings for my CAD drawings, the deviations you are seeing between the model and the drawing are not too far from deviations I have found when re-drawing plans like these. So my vote is you are good to go press on and let's see more great modeling.

Timmy!

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Hi there, VADM Fangschleister, mate! :woot.gif:

Also, gleaned from these hallowed pages, I learned how to do a "stressed skin" effect and used a #2 scalpel blade to run perpendicular to the rivet lines to make the skin look "drawn in". I have to be careful not to overdo it as the Hustler was built like a destroyer. But the rippled skin is still there on the real bird. My first efforts may be too pronounced, but ....I don't care.

Hey, me's been peepin' at yer work on here 'n' was wonderin' whether whut ya meant by "stressed skin" 'n' "draw in" look was this:

Hustler.jpg

If this is whut ya meant, that's an awesome effect! :thumbsup: Ya say ya've learnt that technique here on ARC? Hope ya show us how that effect is done step by step, mate. It's real to scale.

Keep the great job up, mate.

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Looking really good so far! It's a great subject - I have always liked the B-58.

For what it's worth, the outlines on the drawings are not necessarily accurate either. The real value in these drawings are the numbers and dimentions. After using these types of drawings for my CAD drawings, the deviations you are seeing between the model and the drawing are not too far from deviations I have found when re-drawing plans like these. So my vote is you are good to go press on and let's see more great modeling.

Timmy!

Timmy! Thanks! Yup, I'd have to agree...it's the distances. But the tail graphic lays out the substructure and it's not all that close to where the lines on the kit are that already exist. If I had known that, I would've held off the rescribing but, no matter. I'm chugging on through it.

Hi there, VADM Fangschleister, mate! :wave:

Hey, me's been peepin' at yer work on here 'n' was wonderin' whether whut ya meant by "stressed skin" 'n' "draw in" look was this:

If this is whut ya meant, that's an awesome effect! :thumbsup: Ya say ya've learnt that technique here on ARC? Hope ya show us how that effect is done step by step, mate. It's real to scale.

Keep the great job up, mate.

Yes, Uncle U. However, a correction. I did a Google search and found the original technique as posted by Klaus Herold on Hyperscale . Here

I was so interested in trying it that over the months I collected the needed tools to do it. On a plane such as the B-58, with so much substructure, there was only SOME rippling as compared to say, a Constellation or other more lightly built airplane. I say lightly built as in the B-58 was practically "overbuilt" because of the flight stresses it had to endure. You'll note, the Concorde is built similarly.

On aircraft, "stressed" skin means that the aluminum sheets are cut into panels and laid down and riveted, or "stressed" onto the structure within the airframe. Naturally, this riveting and fasteners draw the skin in tight and cause the rippling effect. It's most convincing on BMF's and I was really intrigued by Klaus's how-to article.

But all the credit goes to Klaus. His tutorial was easy for me to understand and the pictures made it all clear. I am but a mere rookie, going slow and trying not to booger it up.

On this bird I'm trying to just be subtle about it but may have some moments of overdoing it. I really don't mind. I'll just call it "creative modeler's license" or CML. There, a new acronym for us to bash around.

The one thing that can be pesky is with hard plastic, such as on a Revell/Monogram or Tamiya, Hasegawa kit, the scalpel blade can skip, causing unsightly marks that make the grooves look more like carved rock than a nicely dug out trough. So, I'm working on that and the best way is to scrap it in short strokes instead of one long one down the whole line. So it's "scrape, scrape, scrape" instead of "scraaaaaaaaaaaaaape".

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Yes, Uncle U. However, a correction. I did a Google search and found the original technique as posted by Klaus Herold on Hyperscale . Here

:) Nice tip, VADM F, mate! Thanks a lot for the link! It's so fascinatin' 'n' interestin' to me. Gonna have to practice this technique a lot first on scrap before attemptin' it on a model.

Hey AMT's 1/48 A6M5 lousy kit... me is comin' to get ya... ya hear? :lol:

I was so interested in trying it that over the months I collected the needed tools to do it. On a plane such as the B-58, with so much substructure, there was only SOME rippling as compared to say, a Constellation or other more lightly built airplane. I say lightly built as in the B-58 was practically "overbuilt" because of the flight stresses it had to endure. You'll note, the Concorde is built similarly.

Yeh, I'd seen these "stressed skins" on real planes lota times, but I always thought the ripplin' effect was due to perhaps excessive heat or torsion, ne'er for my life had I considered it was owin' to the way aluminium was riveted onto aircraft structure. So I appreciate the explanation as well. :woot.gif:

But all the credit goes to Klaus. His tutorial was easy for me to understand and the pictures made it all clear. I am but a mere rookie, going slow and trying not to booger it up.

<_< Hmph... one hell of a talented rookie ya must be then. My next birthday gift, I think I'll ask to be HALF as a shrewd 'n' dedicated rookie as ya are. Say, how long have ya been modellin' for, again?

On this bird I'm trying to just be subtle about it but may have some moments of overdoing it. I really don't mind. I'll just call it "creative modeler's license" or CML. There, a new acronym for us to bash around.

Well, yer Hustler is goin' awesome so far, 'n' this is sumthin' every mate on here will agree with. Aside from the stressed skin effect, me's especially liked the attention ya're puttin' on rescribin' 'n' rivetin.' The way ya've polished plastic too.

Me's gonna be followin' yer build, VADM F, mate.

Cheers :cheers:

Unc²

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I did however break out the drawings I got from Scott Lowther's website

Please note, those drawings are *not* to be considered accurate scale drawings!! They are not intended as such by the manufacturer, and having looked at dozens of such drawings of many different aircraft, I can tell you that not one of them has been to scale. They are only intended to provide maintenance troops with a general reference. The dimensions quoted on them will be accurate, but not necessarily the drawings themselves. They are only rough guides. The only thing you should trust there is the dimensions.

J

Edited by Jennings
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Thanks Jennings.

Well, I got them because the nearest B-58 to me is probably 1500 miles away in Indiana. Or, possibly Texas. When I lived in Tucson, I lacked the foresight to bring my measuring tape with me when I went to the Pima Air Museum and stupid me, I never got the rivet patterns from it either. If only I'd known that Monogram would make this kit.

So...back to the position of having fun...not attempting to nail the accuracy to the micrometer and use the drawings as a guide, as you suggest. I can make it look close but short of getting all the photo documentation I would need (not gonna happen) I'll use my integillence and my brianpower to make edcumated guesses as to where the rows of rivets go.

Just the same, I would've assumed that engineering drawings would be more accurate but, I suspected already that they were guides and not real blueprint-types. I spent enough time on the flightline with similar items to recognize pretty quickly that they weren't suitable for carving any scale renditions from. But I had hoped....I had hoped....

No worries. I'm just having fun with my riveter and watching reruns on TV. The occasional DVD. I might order the B-58 DVD's I keep seeing on Amazon. I've watched bits and pieces on YouTube. Interesting.

Thanks everyone for the encouragement. I will have more photos later on. I got my casting materials so I can now make the correct size compressor faces for the engines. The Fisher resin is great, but the telescoping tube for the shock cones and the J-79 engine faces are about 20% too big....pics to follow

Fang

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This is lookin' really good. I think you can sand off the raised panel lines and still see a ghost of where they were. That'll solve the problem of having your scriber wander off either side of the fence. Just a thought.

Jerry

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This is lookin' really good. I think you can sand off the raised panel lines and still see a ghost of where they were. That'll solve the problem of having your scriber wander off either side of the fence. Just a thought.

Jerry

Hey Jerry!

Thanks for the tip. I know that works on the silver plastic kit but this one is molded in gray. I just decided to live with it and work more carefully. Also, better placement of the DYMO tape helps.

Currently casting the J-79 faces. Actually, copying the Dmold units. They will get cast then altered to the B-58 and an extension over the accessory section for the telescoping tube for the intake spikes. Not planning on reproducing them for sale...no. Just my own use.

Right now the silicone is curing and tomorrow, I should have a new mold for the parts. (4-6 hours)

Sorry, no pics this go round. Hang in there.

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My bad....didn't know some Hustler kits were molded in gray. I must have an older kit that's molded in silver. It took me 2 weeks to rescribe but learned alot. Can't wait to see more progress.

Jerry

No worries, Jerry. It was helpful.

Did some casting last night and will have Dmold copies to modify for the engine faces once the nacelles are scribed.

As you can see, the Fisher Resin nacelle parts are nice. I like the trunking and shaped intake so that it reproduces the "chute" as it is on the aircraft.

ResinPartses008a.jpg

But, oddly, the N1 compressor face is about 20% too large. So I had to find something else. Short of scratchbuilding my own, I found Dmold's product to be exactly the right diameter (Gee, a 1/48 scale J-79 engine front to boot) So I grabbed the casting kit and had at it. The Fisher compressor face is on the right, my copied casting of the Dmold engine front is on the left.

Resin005aCut.jpg

The area slagged off in red will be removed and the back side of the intake trunk will get cleaned up and I'll have a nice resin intake to go with the (OUTSTANDING) Aires exhausts.

Now, as an important aside, I am only casting the Dmold parts for my own use. And they are getting hacked up anyhow. I had planned on scratching my own part, then casting that but this is, naturally, easier.

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Have been working on the intakes. This is a continuation of the Fisher/Dmold adventure.

I shaved all the parts on the J-79 engine front that I didn't need and checked the size fit at the back of the Fisher resin intake. It needed some enlarging with a slow Dremel tool with the small sanding drum on it.

The parts then went together thus:

Resin021a.jpg

It's easy to see the engine front without the shock cone installed.

Resin002a-1.jpg

But, just like the real airplane, there isn't a whole lot you can see when the cone is installed. If the lighting is just right (And I had to work at it to get any light in there at all) you can see the compressor face. I may opt to leave the telescoping tube out that in real life, moves the shock cone back and forth. But it would be invisible here.

Resin009a.jpg

So, three more of these...

Thanks for looking.

Fang

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