Model Master Chrome Silver

[Ant]

I am going to try a NMF, i will be using MM chrome silver. i have been doing a bit of expermenting with the airbrush, thinning, pressure ect. the main thing i have found is that the airbrush tip seems to clog up a lot. i have tried thinning the paint more and higher pressure's. no difference. so a few questions for anyone who has used this paint.

1. do you need to undercoat?

2. how thin should the paint be, i normally use 50-50

3. mist coats or just hit it?

4. drying time between coats, i know it takes a long time to cure

any other hints would be great.

p.s i dont want to use alclad or other types as this is a one off. thanks

[Old Blind Dog]

Are you talking MM enamels or Acryl? With MM Acryl, a primer coat is pretty much a necessity.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

[Ant]

Are you talking MM enamels or Acryl? With MM Acryl, a primer coat is pretty much a necessity.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

sorry enamel

[Don Wheeler]

I've sprayed it thinned 1:1 with lacquer thinner at 15 psi with no clogging problem. That was with a Badger Anthem which has a good size nozzle. If your airbrush tip is .3mm or smaller it might tend to clog. Needless to say, you have to mix it well. I've heard that the metallic particles settle in a gravity fed brush and can clog. I sprayed one coat with a couple passes over bare plastic and it covered well. It's very fragile and I don't know if it ever completely hardens.

Don

[k5ikl]

It's very fragile and I don't know if it ever completely hardens.

Don

It doesn't harden. Way before Alclad that's what I used for NMF. Today if I pickup

one it still has a sticky feeling. I am talking builds from 15+ years ago. I would

recommend a primer and masking tapes will pull it up. Even Tamiya yellow tape.

Proceed with caution.....

Jerry

[hooknladderno1]

I am going to try a NMF, i will be using MM chrome silver. i have been doing a bit of expermenting with the airbrush, thinning, pressure ect. the main thing i have found is that the airbrush tip seems to clog up a lot. i have tried thinning the paint more and higher pressure's. no difference. so a few questions for anyone who has used this paint.

1. do you need to undercoat?

2. how thin should the paint be, i normally use 50-50

3. mist coats or just hit it?

4. drying time between coats, i know it takes a long time to cure

any other hints would be great.

p.s i dont want to use alclad or other types as this is a one off. thanks

Ant,

Even though it may seem wasteful to buy of jar of Aclad for a single project, the high performance characteristics, as well as avoiding the hassles of the MM Chrome are worth it. I have used Alclad for many non-aircraft subjects. It really is great stuff. As it is a lacquer, it dries hard, and handles well. Just my two cents...

David

[Frankhenrylee]

Try contacting Hawkeye's Hobbies about his NMF paints. I'd post a link, but I don't know how. He's helped me out numerous times. I haven't used them myself but from the looks of his work he probably provides the best NMF in an enamel.

[zeus60]

Hawkeye's Hobbies link

There you go.

[GGoheen]

As has been mentioned here already, using MM chrome silver enamel truly wouldn't be a fantastic choice as (1) it takes very long to harden and fully cure and (2) will most likely lift if any careful masking is done. I'd suggest a small investment of $8 USD for a bottle of Alclad II, whereas you can add a bit of black to whatever color you pick up to use for darker panel sections and not have such a monotone finish. Keeps the investment to a minimum this way for you and will surely work much better than using MM enamel chrome silver. Good stuff, by the way, for dials on instrument panels but not recommended for an overall exterior color.

Greg

[Hawkeye's Hobbies]

FWIW if you are applying any enamel silver or aluminum paint that can be applied by either brush or airbrush it generally has a very low translucency. Undercoating it serves no practical purpose except helping you find the flaws in the assembly process. By the time you spray the paint on, to get sufficient coverage, the undercoat is completely obscured. It wouldn't matter if it were white, black or pink; the MM enamel will cover it and no light will penetrate to reach and reflect off the undercoat.

I prefer to use a NMF as my primer color! As with any metal object, start with metal as the base for any scheme.

Ant-I've been shipping a lot of Talon to Australia, one of those guys should be able to show you it in action unless they are hoarder/collectors not modeler/builders. ;)

[Ant]

well after days of testing i seem to have come up with a formula.

1. gloss/flat black undercoat, i dont think colour matters, very well thinned, 2-3 mist coats

2. mix the chrome silver with gloss black about 80-20, depends on the shade you want, stir very well

3. spray on the chrome silver very well thinned, 70 thinner-30 paint

4. mist first coat so you can just see the undercoat, let dry for at least an hour or use a hairdryer

5. spray next coat to get the cover you want but dont go to heavy.

6. dry for at least 5 min with hairdryer.

7. for panel shadeing use straight chrome or different anounts of the gloss black.

i have found this way the chrome silver drys very well and is 90% resistant to fingers. i always where gloves after a model is painted so im safe. i have pushed my bare fingers on the paint and no marks, however like all paint if you hels it long enough it would smudge.

i will post a picture of my test aircraft and you can see what you think.

[Ant]

Ant-I've been shipping a lot of Talon to Australia, one of those guys should be able to show you it in action unless they are hoarder/collectors not modeler/builders.

Gerald, will you at some point have a store in Aus to stock your Talon?