chuck540z3 Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 (edited) "April 22, 1945. Target: Breman cities defenses. Ordered to abandon operation and returned to base, landing with full bomb load" It would appear the war is almost over. No sense bombing Germans about to surrender! Now to create some tiny bits that I wasn't sure how I was going to handle. If you look at the Lanc Merlin engines, they all have 2 carburetor intakes on both sides of the engines. On the kit engines, these intakes are very tiny and too small to scale. They are also inaccurate for another reason: They are all the same size. The inboard intakes should be quite a bit bigger than the outboard engine, no doubt for aerodynamic reasons. The Belcher Bits engines, however, have the correct sized ones..... Unfortunately, the BB engine kit doesn't come with the intake mesh covers, that keep large debris out of the intakes. If you check out pics, you will find that they have a rod-like ring as the surround with fine mesh within it. The kit intake covers are a waste of time, because they are very tiny and don't have much detail. So what to do? What would geedubelyer do? Well this isn't exactly up to Guy's standards of scratch building, but I think it will do the trick. The hard part was finding mesh fine enough to look half-way accurate for 1/48 scale. Snooping around the house, I found a re-usable mesh coffee filter with just the right size of mesh- ultra tiny. After extracting it from the kitchen without my wife seeing, I cut the sucker up and added the remaining mesh to my stash for a future project. Shhhhhh! Meanwhile, I cut up some copper wire and made oval rings by wrapping the wire around the smaller outboard engine intakes as a guide. If you check pics of these intake covers, they are all the same size for all the engines. They fit the inboard intakes perfectly, but they're quite a bit too big for the outboard ones. One size fits all I guess. I then used CA glue to adhere them to the mesh...... And then cut the excess mesh off with scissors. Voila! -Intake covers! Now I need to paint them.... I also got the tires ready too. With a little weathering wash in the inner wheels, they'll look pretty good.... Edited August 11, 2010 by chuck540z3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 (edited) Now for the really hard part- That Nose Art! Fortunately, my cousin's husband Grant is a pretty good artist and he's also excellent with computers, so I recruited him to get me as close a rendition of the nose art my uncle took a picture of. To refresh your memory, here it is with that huge white ball with a cherry and "Virgin Vickie" written to the right of it. That white paint looks fairly new- and very big...... Well Grant did a pretty great job of trying to replicate that picture, so I took the art and shrunk it on my computer. One challenge was that the large white ball had to be printed on white decal paper, so I split the decal into two parts, leaving the "Virgin Vickie" to be printed on clear decal film. I wasn't sure of the right color from the black and white photograph, so Grant made a yellow letters and then I "airbrushed" with my computer a red outline instead, then printed them both on clear decal film...... That yellow should really stick out on that black background right? Wrong! I just learned the hard way that home made decals on either ink jet or laser printers need a white background for the color to show up on dark paint, especially light colors like yellow. Here's what I mean. For fun I put the red decal on the left and the yellow decal on the right on black electrical tape. Where did the decals go?.... Struggling for a solution, I decided that since I couldn't print these letters on white film without them looking very different and weird from the photograph, I would just place a red decal on top of the yellow one instead. Note how the decal on the right "pops" out a bit, although it's still not great.... Checking for a solution in the Tools 'n' Tips Forum, I decided to just go with it, even though it's not what I had planned. The only real solution short of having professional decals made is to print the letters on white decal film, apply them to the fuselage, then paint all the white areas black. Since the fuselage is already heavily weathered, there's no way I can hand paint black around those tiny letters and not make a big ugly mess. Anyway, here's how it turned out after making at least 20 prototypes to determine correct size of the decals. The white ball looks a little bit too big (22 mm), but a slightly smaller one (20 mm) also looked too small as well. Note the faded lettering, even though I placed a red decal on top of a yellow one...... That pic of my uncle's again..... and a similar angle of the model. Getting a decent pic is very hard with all that shiny Future all over the place.... Even though it is far from perfect it will have to do. Sometimes in modeling you just have to suck it up and move on- although I think the next step, the Weathering Wash, will make everything look more uniform and that faded letting just might look OK after all in the weathered scheme of things. This is a good time to let those decals and another coat of Future dry for about a week while I go on vacation. "See" you in a couple of weeks. Edited July 30, 2010 by chuck540z3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian lanc Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I've never understood why the resin nacelles don't come with the mesh covers. nuff' said ! ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jgrease Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 I know it may seem obvious, but what about going over the lettering with a lighter shade of red paint and a fine tipped brush? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted July 30, 2010 Author Share Posted July 30, 2010 Well, so much for "moving on". I couldn't sleep last night wondering how I was going to fix that lettering. Who said modelers were compulsive! :wacko: The nose art for this build was supposed to be the highlight and not the problem, so I went with "Plan B". Since what I have isn't accurate anyway, why not just go with what I want, keeping the spirit of the nose art in tact. I recopied the decal onto some white decal film, cut out each tiny letter as good as I could, then applied them over the existing lettering. I like this version a lot more. The big white ball is overpowering as it is, so the white letters don't look too out of place IMO, and every time my uncle looks at it, "Virgin Vickie" will jump out at him rather than make him hunt for it. I'll let these dry over my holidays, then use some black paint to edit the edges of the lettering before I add another layer of Future to smooth things out. To be continued..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prop Duster Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 You have got it now- it shows as it should (even if the original was less vivid). You may want to try a micro tip pen (they used to be used in drafting) instead of a brush, to blacken the white, a very small .00? tip would be more controllable, I think. Regardless great work so far - have a happy holiday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 You have got it now- it shows as it should (even if the original was less vivid).You may want to try a micro tip pen (they used to be used in drafting) instead of a brush, to blacken the white, a very small .00? tip would be more controllable, I think. Regardless great work so far - have a happy holiday. Thank you Mr Duster. I know that many will think I'm nuts, but I promise, this bird will look very good when I'm done. Every model has a crisis stage and I usually find a way to make things right. That pen idea is terrific. I use it all the time on my fighter cockpits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beaconroot Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Chuck, I really like what you are doing with the Lancaster. Great work! Makes me want to start my Dambuster soon. Keep up the great work! :wub: Jim Root Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 "April 25, 1945. Target: Berchtesgaden, Hitler's hide-out. This was the last raid by Bomber Comman. Regrettably, one of our crew was ill, so we missed out on this operation." Thanks Guys! Now for a little update, but I'm not going to show too much, or I'll spoil the "Unveiling", hopefully within a couple of weeks. I'm getting close now!- but all those tiny little details will take some time still, like formation lights, aerials, aerial lines, engine pieces and other tiny stuff. Oh yeah, that bomb bay with bombs now rocks! Anyway, without being too much more full of myself, here's a little taster of how this kite is finally coming together in the last paint and weathering stages. Since my last post I've "fixed" that darn nose art (well sort of, but it will have to do), used ProMoldeler washes, added engine exhaust markings and then dull-coated the entire model. For the engine exhaust stains, I've been studying several photographs for weeks in order to get it right, so I hope you agree...... Thanks for looking in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Chuck! WOW! You really made that nose art match up BEAUTIFULLY with the level of detail/weathering over the rest of this incredible build. And with the white! Well done. My only advice, if I may, is that the panel lines inside the white ring should be darkened. Being able to see the panel lines because of them being a clean white line doesn't seem right, there's just somthing about it. I'd use a dark/medium gray for the lines... nothing overboard, but just a touch darker than the rest of the white, to highlight the panel lines and give the effect of shade/shadow to capitalize on the depth/dimension of those lines, continuing them from th camoflauge above them right through to the bottom. The exhaust looks spot on as well! Can't wait for the unvailing Chuck! Cheers! Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 My only advice, if I may, is that the panel lines inside the white ring should be darkened. Being able to see the panel lines because of them being a clean white line doesn't seem right, there's just somthing about it. I'd use a dark/medium gray for the lines... nothing overboard, but just a touch darker than the rest of the white, to highlight the panel lines and give the effect of shade/shadow to capitalize on the depth/dimension of those lines, continuing them from th camoflauge above them right through to the bottom.Cheers! Mark. Thanks Mark, I'll do that. Unfortunately with artificial lighting, the panel lines don't show up as well as they could and my uncle's pic (below), doesn't show much relief either, although it's an old pic. I just dirtied up the decal a bit, but I'll still try what you suggested with pastels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 (edited) Ah yes, pastels... gods gift to weathering! I still have to say Chuck, your Lancaster - the work, detail, devotion to it - is causing me to push mine further and further to the bottom of the "to do" list. Hahahaha... should be motivating me instead, right? The amount of work you're doing is incredible to say the least. Such effort to recreate one particular, specific a/c with such meaning is always a great project to watch. Then how you solve problems that come up, and do it well (such as the colour within "Virgn Vickie") and make it work... this is one build, that as you've noted... I cannot wait to see an update of yours! glad I'm planning on only making a dambuster... hahaha Cheers! Mark. Edited August 11, 2010 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnS Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 (edited) Wow, your Lanc looks better and better each time I look at the pic's. Can't wait to see the "unveiling". Edited August 11, 2010 by JohnS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian lanc Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Stop it Chuck i can't take any more ! ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shawn M Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 your finish on this is superb! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nipponts Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Amazing Chuck ! I see the impressive thread of Helldiver two year ago and now this in giant Lancaster. Very nice your drawings ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prop Duster Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Great Job I like what you have done The nose art looks very good with your weathering, thou, a slight darking of the pnl lines would give it a more painted on look vs the decal look. I was surprised at the exhaust stains, was expecting the ubiquitous black/brwn stain seemingly resulting from a giant oil spray gun. Yours looks OUTSTANDING, very subtle and almost wispy. they look like they were the result of hot exhaust gas flowing over the wing. looking forward to the next installment I'm going to go cry myself to sleep and hope tomorrow I'll be able to build a model too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MaxPower Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 I just found somebody selling the1:48 grandslam version on kijiji for $40. This thread and watching a Lancaster take off the other day, as well as the smoking deal, have inspired me to build one too!! I fear it will be OOB however so shall not compare to yours. If I can pull off a paint job that looks half as good as yours chuck I'll be happy!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) "May 3, 1945. Rotterdam, Holland- Operation MANNA, food supply. 284 bags (5,016 lbs) were dropped from 500 feet. "Thank you RAF" was spelled out in tulips, not far from the drop site." Wow, the war is fianlly over. I bet dropping food was a lot more fun than dropping bombs! I'm in the back stretch now boys- BOMBS, BOMBS and more BOMBS for my bomb-aimer uncle. I took some of your advice and added a little graffiti, some of which I found in pics like the chalked numbers on the nose (thanks Ian). This one I made up, but I found a lot of other examples that were similar on the 4000 lb "Cookie".... A few more pics of those beat up bombs. Note the hinges on the bomb bay doors.... Now this part really turned out the way I wanted it. Those bomb bay doors are almost always beat up from wear and tear, so the salt weathering did it's thing again and those rivets I added look pretty good, if I do say so myself. Spot painting with an airbrush or a paint brush can't touch this random effect. Meanwhile, "Virgin Vicky" got a little dirty and I pulled off the masking tape from the canopy. Whew! No over-spray! If some got inside the canopy things could be really, really tense around the Sawyer household right about now. Fortunately, I left the front blister off, mostly to prevent over-spray inside it, but also to give me an entrance to the cockpit for last minute dust and debris removal before I seal everything up. The putty along the canopy seam with added rivets is a lot more realistic than just plunking on the canopy at the last minute. Those exhaust stains across the wing were a little too intense, so I toned them down a touch with some charcoal spray, then sanded them lightly with 4,000 grit sandpaper. As with the salt weathering, randomness is the key to realism. I've seen a few Lanc builds that made these stains look like D-Day stripes..... Now for some really fun stuff. I'm taking my uncle and son to Abbotsford to their annual air show this weekend. The main reason is that the Mynarski Lancaster will be flying there, one of only 2 Lancs that still fly. I'll take some pics and post them here. This should give me some ideas for further detail before I wrap this project up. Thanks for your continued support. Edited August 13, 2010 by chuck540z3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 HOLY CRAP!!! I'm speachless Chuck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ian lanc Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Chuck ! You've put the words ''cookie for adolf'' upside down ! Think about how the aircrew/groundcrew would have written those words whilst the cookie was on the bomb trolley. amazing work buddy. Send me a PM when its up in the display section please ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kostucha Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) Chuck ! You've put the words ''cookie for adolf'' upside down !Think about how the aircrew/groundcrew would have written those words whilst the cookie was on the bomb trolley. Good point... but... couldn't these be rolled by accident too? Say... written on the ground? Or by personnel up in the bomb bay doing final 'secure checks' and just couldn't resist adding the final touches? I'm just saying... Hahaha... there's always something. Edited August 13, 2010 by Kostucha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shawn M Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 my god I love this build. Im looking forward to using the techniques you've shared here when I paint/weather my Corsair. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chukw Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Really coming together, Chuck- I'm impressed by the constant adjustments and improvements on your improvements. WIN! Cheers- chuk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 (edited) Thanks a lot guys for the kind words guys! Chuck ! You've put the words ''cookie for adolf'' upside down !Think about how the aircrew/groundcrew would have written those words whilst the cookie was on the bomb trolley. ian. Damn! There's always something! Oh well, at least this way people can read it, rather than have it buried at the top of the bomb where they can't. A ground crew member could still chalk the words on right after he attached those fuse lines at the front after installation, couldn't he? OK, I'll fix it anyway (and thanks for pointing that out). Speaking of those fuse lines, the Tamiya instructions are wrong for the position of the 3 fuses at the front of the cookie. If you assemble the cookie as instructed, the fuses will be vertical rather than horizontal. I learned this from the Eduard photo-etch brass instructions and many pics of the bomb bay. The cookie should look like this when installed in the bomb bay (more or less).... Enough modeling for a day or two. I'm off to see a REAL Lanc fly! Edited August 13, 2010 by chuck540z3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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