ZAgocs Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Hi everyone! Thanks to all of you again! @Sunliner: nooo, I never count them (not necessary, there's one at every mm), so I'm not a real rivet counter... Putting riveting aside for a while I started to build the details of the airbrakes under the wing. First I cut the shapes and drilled out all the holes (yes, there's another piece created, it went wrong, let's call it a prototype): Then the unnecessary material was cut away to form the final shape: Rivet lines are drawn and the parts riveted: And finally the hydraulics were built (the rods will be cut to length later when the wells are also formed): I hope you like this. Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
agelos2005 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 excellent work mate! what tool did you ise for the rivets on the fuselage? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 excellent work mate!what tool did you ise for the rivets on the fuselage? Hi Periklis! Nice to see you here - as your FANTASTIC work greatly inspired me to start this project! Well, the riveting... I use a home-made "flexible ruler". This is a small metal stripe cut from a soda can, scribed a mm scale onto it and made the scale visible with a marker pen. Added some electric tape on it and it's ready. When it breaks, I make another one. And the riveter tool... it is an old dart (really, don't tell it to Phil Taylor ). It is not too sharp, and thus it makes shallow, large round holes that are not filled when I sand down the excess material around them. Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 ZAgocs, fantastic progress! I can not wait that you to finish the model! :) Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
copey Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Outstanding work, Can't believe I missed this one. mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Hello everyone, as always, thanks for the kind words. It's time to post a little update... The airbrake wells were created from plastic sheet, riveted and dryfitted into the wings: Then I checked the intakes. No details at all, and I don't think there are sink marks and locating pins in the real ones. It seems impossible to reshape the intakes so I decided to create intake covers to hide everything in them. I cut the basic shape from plastic sheet, and formed its inner "box": Then added some details and dryfitted them into the intakes: Hope you like this. Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ventura_kelley Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Belts also added to the bottom (I've checked a lot of photos but I'm still not sure how authentic these belts are...anyway, they give that "busy" impression I wanted): I hope you like this. Zoli What material did you use to make your belts? How did you cut the edge of the soda can so that your rivet lines are straight? The best way I've found to cut a soda can is with scissors, but my edges are never straight. Your work is absolutely amazing. I'm totally subscribing to this topic. Can't wait to see what you do next. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 What material did you use to make your belts?How did you cut the edge of the soda can so that your rivet lines are straight? The best way I've found to cut a soda can is with scissors, but my edges are never straight. Your work is absolutely amazing. I'm totally subscribing to this topic. Can't wait to see what you do next. Hi! The belts: aluminium foil from a green tea box - it is not flat but has a rectangular pattern pressed into it. I use it folded to itself - on the photo you can see the two layers. You can see a bigger slice of it on the aft sidewall - covered with the same material. Soda can cutting: scribe it along a metal ruler with your x-acto about two-three times using not too much pressure - you have to have a not too deep "panel line". After it you can break it off folding it back and forth and it will break along the scribed - straight - line. Hope this helps, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ventura_kelley Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Hi!The belts: aluminium foil from a green tea box - it is not flat but has a rectangular pattern pressed into it. I use it folded to itself - on the photo you can see the two layers. You can see a bigger slice of it on the aft sidewall - covered with the same material. Soda can cutting: scribe it along a metal ruler with your x-acto about two-three times using not too much pressure - you have to have a not too deep "panel line". After it you can break it off folding it back and forth and it will break along the scribed - straight - line. Hope this helps, Zoli Which brand of tea? I need some of that foil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Which brand of tea? I need some of that foil. This one: Twinings Gunpowder Green Tea Metal box, the tea is sealed with the foil I used here. Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 Hi everyone! As I mostly finished riveting the fuselage I started to paint the cockpit pieces (before that the sidewalls were glued into the fuselage halves). I sprayed Gunze Light Ghost Grey as primer first: Then, after careful masking I painted the black areas (and olive drab "boxes") and added some shadows to the sidewalls: Now I'll have to paint the small details using a very fine brush. For me this one seems the hardest part... Thanks for watching. Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Texan Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Zoli, you da man! Love what you're doing to the ole Italeri F-4! Great job! Will be watching your work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ventura_kelley Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Dude. Your work is stunningly good. And without resin. Incredible! I really like what you do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 Hi everyone! Thanks to everyone for the kind words. More than a week passed since I've posted the last pics. All the cockpit parts were detail painted since then. The results are acceptable at some places, but there are parts I wanted to paint better - but can't. The finished model will look good from half a meter away, but not closer. What I'm quite disappointed about is the rear instrument panel (the scratchbuilt one) and the side consoles. All these are missing the switches and buttons - I tried to paint the details, but as you will see, these are not look so well. I accept (and ask for) any suggestions from the scratch masters here about building switches and buttons... How can you glue slices of 0.2-0.4mm diameter stretched sprue onto the consoles? So here are the finished parts... Continued in the next post... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 ...continued from the previous post Cockpit tub, with the not-so-nice side consoles... Front IP, looks OK (the buttons, you now): Low quality rear IP: All the parts before putting them back to the box (as I have to build everything in the front wheel well before assembling this)... On this last pic you can see what I was saying about the distance - seeing from a distance the parts look good enough... I hope you like it and thanks for watching. Comments welcomed. Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marine4 ever Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 very nice stuff Zoli. I have this beast of a kit and was going to get rid of it. Now I have a very nice reference to add some details. Keep the posts coming. Semper Fi Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 very nice stuff Zoli. I have this beast of a kit and was going to get rid of it. Now I have a very nice reference to add some details. Keep the posts coming. Semper Fi Dan Hi Dan! Many thanks! If you are to use this build as a reference you must know that I would do (will do next time? ) it differently at least at one point: - the seat bucket (and the cushion) is too wide on the model - the upper and the lower parts have almost the same width on the real seat. The kit part is much wider at the lower part. If I could start it over, I would remove the excess material from the lower part of the seat (the cushion) and drop the kit part seat sides. Those would be replaced with thin plastic sheet using the original kit parts as reference. - doing this means the seat would be significantly (2mm about) narrower than the place it fits into the cockpit tub. I would close this extra space and make the side consoles wider by adding plastic sheet on top of the original and to the side of the tub. By doing these things it would look more like the original cockpit (and I would have more space to add details to the side consoles). Unfortunately I realized this after I've painted everything so I won't change it now... but maybe next time... Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 (edited) Hi everyone, time for a little update. This time I added some details to the front landing gear and wheel well. Started up with the original kit parts... there are many flaws including spartan details, ejector pin marks, flash and molding errors. Ejector pin marks on the fine riveting of the gear doors (don't know how to fix this...) Anyway, the whole thing is a bit rough and simple. The inside details were scraped and sanded flat: And using reference photos some detailing added: The front landing gear got the same treatment. All details were sanded: And added some scratched bits: Front landing gear dryfitted: This is it. I can tell you that scratchbuilding is quite addictive... I hope you like it. Thanks for watching. Comments welcomed as usual. Cheers, Zoli Edited May 28, 2012 by ZAgocs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blackcollar Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Very nice scratch building.. Kept in check, but very effective. -Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Fantastic Zoli,simply fantastic! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ZAgocs Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Very nice scratch building.. Kept in check, but very effective.-Al Hi Al! Thank you! The generic rule for me is to create something that looks busy (make it look like a complex machine, not a simple piece of plastic). Of course everything should look like the original piece but I do not want to overdo it - that way one build would span over my entire lifetime... Fantastic Zoli,simply fantastic! <_< Gianni Hi Gianni! Thank you very much! Cheers, Zoli Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GreyGhost Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Fantastic Detailing, Zoli ! Gregg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Filipe Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Top notch stuff Zoli. Looking very good, the cockpit looks great. Keep on Best regards Filipe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tblood988 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Zoli, For the buttons on your side consoles, it is easier if you do them before you put the pieces of the console onto the tub. If you feel like doing it, you could recreate all the panels, but before you install them, drill locator holes all the way through the panes, and insert you strectched sprue throught the underside. Glue and cut the sprue to the desired length from the under side. Sand the bottom, then install the panels. Dials can be made by punching tiny discs, gluing them to the panels, then laying a piece of stretched sprue across the disc. Glue the sprue, then cut it to lenght, and you have a dial. It is hard to get them to scale, but you will have some three dimensional detail. Hope that helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Qian Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 :P WOW! Now that's one FANTASTIC riveting job! The cockpit looks great too! Keep it up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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