maurizio Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) Hi mates, I decided to convert a G-91R to a Y since I have ready the wheels bays, rudder, airbrakes and landing gears from the -T version as you can see from the previous topic. The Y version (called Yankee due to the section of the jet intake for the engines - similar to a "Y": one air intake for 2 J-85) was used only by Italian Airforce from the 70s to mid-90s. there are no kits on the market now, only a very old and rare P.D. Models but was wrong standing to some comments from several modellers. G-91T rudder compared with the one used for the Yankee version: perfect! Edited June 15, 2011 by maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 I forget the wings.... I'll also use the -T version flaps'. The yankees had the slats and different wings compared with the R and T version. cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
72linerlover Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Hi Maurizio As I saw your G-91 fuselage divided in three parts I remembered when back in 1976 or so, I did the same in 1/72 with the Airfix kit to get a Y. Curious that some years later I used a Matchbox Y to build a T, in the same scale. I'm sure that the Y will come out nice as your T too: my best congratulations. By the way: what kind of clear resin are you going to use for the canopy? Will you vacuum cast? Regards Euge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Hi Euge, thanks for your comments. I just tried to use a do-it-by-yourself vacuum machine but it worked very bad. I'll use a silicon mould as usual and TRY to use a cristal clear resin, the same I used to obtain water for a 1/35 diorama. There are tests. I hope they work.... cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
72linerlover Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 I'll use a silicon mould as usual and TRY to use a cristal clear resin, the same I used to obtain water for a 1/35 diorama. There are tests. I hope they work.... Thanks, Maurizio I was referring to clear resin vacuum casting. Are you going to use this or you will simply pure the resin in the silicon moud directly? Euge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 I'm used to put the resin inside the silicon mould using a toothpick in order to facilitate the air bubbles exit. I NEVER USED CLEAR RESIN with a silicon mould before, only Prochima and Rastderanauo resin. It will be a test!!!! This is the reason why I keep canopies so thick. cheers Maurizio www.ma-files.it military aviation files Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Hi mates, here are some more and new pics. I'm used to add some layers of Squadron putty, gunze or tamiya primer and Gunze Mr500 liquid putty. This will give me a strong, easy to sandpaper and soft surface for rivetting and scribing works. Also note that the model kit will be cut in the middle in order to detail the cockpit and have 2 half-fuselages for making resing copies. cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 ..I forget one... Please note that the model is longer to be finished so the nose is untouched as well as the tail and exaust area.... cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andre Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Nice! Gotta love the Gina. Cheers, Andre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aggressor Supporter Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Impressed with the planning put into this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Thanks mates!!! cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 Some more pics. Checking the dimensions. I also added another layer of putty and sandpapered with high grade of grid. cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 More pics. I started detaling the nose and the exaust area. There are several layers of Squadron putty, Gunze liquid putty and Tamiya spray primer. This is giving me a good base for sandpapering and scribing works. Cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragan_mig31 Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 :) :worship: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rocat Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 great work so far...the Y looked really nice.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 Thanks mates!! cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G_Marcat_Italy Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 A very interesting project. Good Idea and good work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) Gonna enjoy tis project very much... Real good work so far... :D <_< Edited July 6, 2010 by HOLMES Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 Great work amico mio! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) wow! that's great work so far! a big conversion work! i'd love to do so one day, and have the g-91Y, in that stiking shark shem!here i'll follow yours with great interrest! Edited July 7, 2010 by mingwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 Checking the lines. I've added the G-91T rudder and stabilizer resin copies (test copies with some bubbles) in order to check the dimensions and the general curves. cheers Maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 don't worry if the kit is now full of scratches, putty, glue, dust.... it ill be very smooth and properly "panelled" when finished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fishwelding Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Awesome conversion work, here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 here is the part that goes between the 2 exausts, made of curved plastic coming from a yoghurt bottle. Checking again the lines - curves - dimensions after THE cut. Please note that the macro oprion in the camera doesn't allowed a perfect view of the drawing/model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 Please remember I'm making a master. It will be casted in resin after the mould so the final finishing is not important. Improved exaust area making the correct angle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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