Gluing Vertical Stabilizers

[gotarheelz14]

I am talking about the kits where the vertical stabilizer is joined with the fuselage halves. When you assemble the two halves, you are also assembling the vertical stabilizer. My current 1/48 Tamiya Spitfire is a perfect example of this.

My question is, when you are gluing the two fuselage halves and you get to the vertical stabilizer part, how do you apply the liquid cement so that it does not run all along the length of the stabilizer? The problem is that the stabilizer is so thin that when applying the liquid cement via my touch n' flow like I do, it leaves very little room for error. Usually I get at least a couple of runs where the cement went running down the length of the stabilizer.

Flipping it over on its side is not really a good option either as it is hard to apply the cement that way.

Is it possible to put tape along the area of the stabilizer you want to mask off? If the glue falls on this will it not still leak through the tape and cause horrible smearing of the plastic?

I am running out of ideas. I think I might just apply it with a brush to these areas.

Thanks,

Carlos

[Matt]

I use an old #11 blade to wedge the gap open a little more to make it easier to apply liquid cements and get them to capilliary down the join rather than deviate across the surface.

Also I switched from using a touch and flow to a suitable brush, as it makes it easier to control the amount and placement of the glue.

Hope this helps,

Matt

[dragonfly]

A similar idea is take a regular single edge razor blade and insert it between the two halfs. Apply the liquid cement, again with a brush, to the side of the blade and it will flow down into the joint without marring the outside of the pieces.

Jerry

Edited March 16, 2010 by dragonfly

[Phantom ordie]

I generally use different brands of glue. Tenax and Proweld dry quickly. Testor's liquid dries slower so you can brush it on the inside like the vertical stabs you mention and then join them together.

[Chuck1945]

I try to start with the tail so you are working with parts that are not already mostly glued together. A piece of tape will hold the fuselage halves in place but stilll have enough play to keep some space between the verticals to flow sopme glue in.

If I dont need to hold the halves together with tape, I can even start with the tail, holding the fin halves together, but use a blade to hold the rear bottom of the fuselage open and apply glue to the verticals from the inside.

[Impatient Pete]

Hope it's not a hijack, but along the same lines...

How the heck do you avoid gluing a twist in while you're at it. It's one thing I can't seem to get down (OK, that and actualy finishing ANYTHING but that's another show...)

I have gotten almost to completion before I realized that I glued a twist into my models twice! My eye just doesn't seem to catch it until the stabs and wings are on, then it's too late. Do you guys have a way to do it other than the old Mk 1 eyeball? Mine a not a so gooood!

Edited March 17, 2010 by Impatient Pete

[Edgar]

Hold the assembly, so that the area that you're joining is vertical, and use very small drops. Gravity will force the glue to run down, and along the join; just remember to rotate the assembly, as you go, so that each piece remains vertical, as you come to it, and take your time, ensuring that each preceding drop has evaporated before you move. If you do get any slight spillage, volatile glues, like Tenax or MEK, evaporate very quickly, so any damage should be easy to rectify, with Micromesh (for example.) The big thing is keep your fingers, holding the assembly, away from any chance of being reached by spills; etched fingerprints are a swine to get out. Having said that, I now, with less dexterity in my fingers, use Humbrol Liquid Poly, which can be brushed onto both mating surfaces, then pressed together, leaving the MEK for the normal, broader joins.

Edgar