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Does ANYBODY make decent Hinumarus in 1/72???


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Currently working on the Hasegawa 1/72 A6M2 Type 21. Used Tamiya AS 29 IJN Gray Green (which is excellent, BTW), and was going to use markings from a Techmod sheet. Well, the Techmod decals are, to put it diplomatically, complete and total s***. Simply worthless. This seems to be the case with just about every Hinumaru decal I've ever used; Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujumi, Academy--all complete cr**! (Can you tell, I'm a bit miffed?)

I then tried using some Eduard vinyl masks for the Hinumarus, spraying Polly Scale DT&I Cherry Red. Only difficulty, the vinyl would not be burnished sufficiently, and failed to go over some raised details, so I got a bit of bleed-under. What was going to be a beautiful ARC-homepage-worthy model is now just another only-halfway-decent-looking also-ran.

So, my question is; does ANYBODY make decent Hinumaru decals in 1/72? Or, are there any good suggestions for masking and painting them one's self? For future reference.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

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I am not a big fan of WWII Japanese aircraft, but I do have a couple in the stash. While there is no doubt in my mind you dont like existing decals, what are the issues that turned you off on them?

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I'm using the Techmod sheet with no troubles as of yet. A lot better than the stock decals in my experience, although I do tend to build old kits so my experience is mostly with old decals which were crap when new.

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Why not just use a circle scriber to cut some masking tape masks?? Vinyl is worthless for that sort of thing IMHO. Shouldn't be a big deal to cut them from tape.

J

Jennings: Can you recommend a specific brand/model circle cutter for this purpose, or point me to where I could look for them?

Mawz: Maybe my Techmod sheet was defective? First, the hinumarus failed to come off the backing paper; when they finally did they broke apart; after sliding everything together on the surface and carefully blotting, I found that they weren't adhering. I applied a coat of Micro Liquid Decal Film to the remaining markings, but this made it even harder (if that was possible) to remove the decals from the backing paper, and they still broke up; plus, some of the color on the decals actually flaked off--and that was before I'd gotten them anywhere near water! With the possible exception of some ICM kit-supplied "decals" (which I had the good sense not to use) I have NEVER encountered anything worse than these.

Chuck: Let's see; Tamiya's markings are relatively good compared to the Techmod ones; on the thick side, but at least they behave like water-slide decals are supposed to, and settle down into panel lines. Hasegawa's markings are, if anything, inconsistent, ranging from merely OK to barely serviceable (at any rate, the hinumarus in the kit are for later Nakajima-built Type 21s, with the white surrounds; I was building an earlier Mitsubishi-built "Pearl Harbor" machine). Fujimi's are out of register and too thin; Academy's rigid monstrosities are legendarily awful to begin with; they will silver on even the most carefully applied gloss surface--that's if you can get them to adhere or settle down at all.

Thanks for the suggestions and help.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

Edited by Old Blind Dog
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Mawz: Maybe my Techmod sheet was defective? First, the hinumarus failed to come off the backing paper; when they finally did they broke apart; after sliding everything together on the surface and carefully blotting, I found that they weren't adhering. I applied a coat of Micro Liquid Decal Film to the remaining markings, but this made it even harder (if that was possible) to remove the decals from the backing paper, and they still broke up; plus, some of the color on the decals actually flaked off--and that was before I'd gotten them anywhere near water! With the possible exception of some ICM kit-supplied "decals" (which I had the good sense not to use) I have NEVER encountered anything worse than these.

Thanks for the suggestions and help.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

Sounds like a bad sheet. I was doing a C6N1 today with the Techmod sheet, they're a little thick but adhere ok and settle down with a little Solvaset. Absolutely no issues with breaking up or flaking (unlike the Aoshima markings I was also using, had to trash the flap outlining).

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Chuck: Let's see; Tamiya's markings are relatively good compared to the Techmod ones; on the thick side, but at least they behave like water-slide decals are supposed to, and settle down into panel lines. Hasegawa's markings are, if anything, inconsistent, ranging from merely OK to barely serviceable (at any rate, the hinumarus in the kit are for later Nakajima-built Type 21s, with the white surrounds; I was building an earlier Mitsubishi-built "Pearl Harbor" machine). Fujimi's are out of register and too thin; Academy's rigid monstrosities are legendarily awful to begin with; they will silver on even the most carefully applied gloss surface--that's if you can get them to adhere or settle down at all
.

Thanks for the info. I was unsure from your initial post just what the problem (s) were. Didn't know if it was decal's properties (because the few Techmod ones I have used were ok in that regard) or if there was something wrong with the way they all did Hinumarus. The only time I have actually tried to use Tamiya decals was an underwing roundel for a Spitfire I and it was too thick to conform, even with solvent solutions. I have generally always used aftermarket decals in place of kit offerings, gave up on what the kits supply 40 years ago :wacko:

Edited by Chuck1945
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I'm still using my carefully hoarded stash of IPMS "Spruce Goose" hinomaru decals. They were printed by Scale Master back in the early 80s, but as long as I keep them sealed in a Ziploc bag, they continue to work beautifully.

SN

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I find that most new kit decals tend to suck compared to decals of about 20 years ago in kits. Maybe they're too caught up in making decals as thin as possible, I dunno. It seems I've had more 'shattered' decals from newer kits than compared to older decals. Hasagawa decals tend to be the best kit ones today for me. Tamiya are spotty, you'll have an excellent sheet, then crap. Testors tend to be junk for me lately (Invisiclear). MPM is hit or miss. Academy is usually decent. AM is good. The best for me is the aftermarket guys, almost always excellent. The problem with them is, sometimes it's a pain to find that particular set you wanted because they're oop and won't be available again for months.

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So here's a question I'm pondering; I've stripped the model (who knew 91 per cent Isopropyl would remove Tamiya AS/TS colors?) and have some new/better hinumarus on the way (thanks K5ikl!). Should I take a chance on another Techmod sheet for the other markings? Doesn't seem to be any other alternative currently, but having been burned so badly this time, I'm a bit gun shy. Still, Mawz and others' experience suggests that I simply got an anomolous defective sheet, and that chances are I'd have better luck next time. So what do you think????

cheers

Old Blind Dog

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I'm still using my carefully hoarded stash of IPMS "Spruce Goose" hinomaru decals. They were printed by Scale Master back in the early 80s, but as long as I keep them sealed in a Ziploc bag, they continue to work beautifully.

SN

I just mailed Jerry the very same sheets in both 1/72 and 1/48. He will definitely have

plenty to fool around with.

Cheers,

Jerry

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