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Finished: Mitsubishi T-2 "JASDF 50th anniversary"


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Uhhh....now out of the paint cabin:

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Gunze aqueous colors, Black H2, White H1, grey H315, blue...oh! The instruction tells you it is H322 phthalo cyanine blue (like the dark blue from the blue impuls team) - but that suggested color is way off!!!! To dark!!! So I mixed the Blue taking H15 bright blue and some drops (or many!!?) of white H1!!! Now I pray that there will be nothing to repaint or repair on the blue parts of the bird!!! (I guess I won t find the right match of blue again).

The ehaust area I painted with alcald II colors: steel, stainless steel, and some shades of hotmetal red and hotmetal blue (first build I use the hotmetal colors ...so the T-2 is a testbed).

Next Step: sealing the colors and start applying decals.

Edited by tobiK
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well, disaster strikes again: peeling off the masking tape under the left wing, a bit of the blue color came off! So I have to mask again, mix again (and I know the color won t be the same anymore) and repair the white-blue edge under the wing. :-(

Next time it will be an over all grey or olive drab bird!! Less work, less stress!??

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After repairing the blue problem zones, the wheel bays painted, and a clear sealer (emsal boden pflege...not future because I sprayed gunze acrylics), now the first decals. Made by cartograph, really good, but not easy to apply. Need a lot of mr. mark softer, patience...

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Edited by tobiK
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tobiK

This looks great! :cheers: Your paint work is excellent, especially when it is matched up with the decals. I think this is a difficult scheme to do and yours is looking great! What blue paint did you use for the body as I hope to do this color scheme sometime in the future.

Mike

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A short update to show ya guys that I m not lazy! It's real fiddly decal and paint work!

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Hi mike,

just for you in short words again:

The instruction tells you it is H322 phthalo cyanine blue (like the dark blue from the blue impuls team) - but that suggested color is way off!!!! To dark!!! So I mixed the Blue taking H15 bright blue and some drops (or many!!?) of white H1!!!

(like mentioned above) I think it looks very cool and close to the pics on the box! I have to say that the black and the white matches very well the decals and the suggested Gunze colors!

@neo

thank you for your kind words!

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tobik,

Oh its SO good to see your progress and what a AWESOME bit of workmanship..

Its looking simply BRILLIANT..

Nice that you persisted with the photos...Good work and now almost there ..

HOLMES :thumbsup: hoo :thumbsup: hoo :tease: hoo :woo: hoo

Edited by HOLMES
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have to mask some white areas after decaling and spray Gunze H1 gloss white to correct some critical points. The other side has been made yeasterday, now let's do the left side!

Edited by tobiK
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  • 2 weeks later...

:crying:, That's an absolutely amazing paint job tobik. I'm glad you've decided not to ditch this one. I have brought the L-39 away with on holidays to finish off the construction work then it'll be into the paint shop as soon as I get home.

:bandhead2:,

Ross.

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Ok, paint is ok, washed the model with dish soap detergent to remove decal glue and some dirt, maybe from fingerprints. Then a coat of Emsal (similar to future) to seal the decals. A very smooth washing with oils will follow.

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Edited by tobiK
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Now working on the gear...adding brake and hydraulic pipes and connection pins. The Fujimi main gear is not that easy to build like the Gawa (I just checked that by testing it on an open gawa T-2 kit). Painting made with Revell aquacolor flat white and the (now available) revell aquacolor thinner - wow! really works well, no glogging and fast drying! Only a few sprays and the paint is on! Thankfully there are some good pics in the net (webshots) from details of the T-2 and F-1!

These days there s a cold epidemic here in bavaria, and I hope the cold won't catch me and force me to stay in bed!! Uhh...I drink warm selfmade elderberry juice with honey daily (contians a lot vitamin C), hope it helps!!

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Now working on the gear...adding brake and hydraulic pipes and connection pins. The Fujimi main gear is not that easy to build like the Gawa (I just checked that by testing it on an open gawa T-2 kit). Painting made with Revell aquacolor flat white and the (now available) revell aquacolor thinner - wow! really works well, no glogging and fast drying! Only a few sprays and the paint is on! Thankfully there are some good pics in the net (webshots) from details of the T-2 and F-1!

These days there s a cold epidemic here in bavaria, and I hope the cold won't catch me and force me to stay in bed!! Uhh...I drink warm selfmade elderberry juice with honey daily (contians a lot vitamin C), hope it helps!!

argh! extra care then...too bad, i catches em lols...yesterday, was in bed the whole day....

however, does it mean soon you'll be working with a new proj?

i wonder how many planes do you actually finish in a month hahahahaha

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Next was ot prepare the parts: painting (Revell aqua No.5 flat white, thinned with the new revell aqua thinner - really fun to work with that combination!!!), adding hydraulic/brake lines, self made placards, etc.

Especially I drilled holes and glued pieces of copper wire for better fixing the parts later and to get a better connection of the parts when they are glued. It also makes possible to prepare an exact positioning of the gear parts. I used the plastc parts OOB and not the metal parts that are packed in that boxing of the "50th anniversary" kit. I will show the model without any ordonance, so it will not need a stronger (model)gear. I keep the metal parts for another T-2 ....using platz decals, in camo, with tanks and ordonance (a future project).

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Here you see the first two parts of the MLG glued in place, fixed by the copper pins, using "gel" superglue .

Hydraulic is made with BMF "crome".

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Now the Landing gear is fixed! After many fiddly hours, trials and efforts, thrilling minutes...and a micro metal adhesive bottle that was spilled over the workbench, here it is!

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I added brake/electric lines, placards made of painted and self scraped aluminium foil (ex cover of a curd cheese box). The method of preparing the parts with holes and the opposite sides with glued in wires turned out to be a good idea! And so the model is standing safe on the ground. Next step will be adding the landing gear doors, air brakes, elevators and the wheels. Next wil be the antennas, then a coating of gloss clear (gunze or tamiya).

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imgp1719w.jpg

Now the Landing gear is fixed! After many fiddly hours, trials and efforts, thrilling minutes...and a micro metal adhesive bottle that was spilled over the workbench, here it is!

imgp1720i.jpg

I added brake/electric lines, placards made of painted and self scraped aluminium foil (ex cover of a curd cheese box). The method of preparing the parts with holes and the opposite sides with glued in wires turned out to be a good idea! And so the model is standing safe on the ground. Next step will be adding the landing gear doors, air brakes, elevators and the wheels. Next wil be the antennas, then a coating of gloss clear (gunze or tamiya).

darn!!! is that how delicate it can be? spare parts were so dainty....where did you get your patience? lols

Edited by bodyhotrage
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