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You need a 3-4 grit sanding/polishing stick.

Start with the roughest grit and slowly work towards the finer grit. Ending with the polishing. You could also use a dremel tool with a polish disc attached at a low rpm. Be carefull though.

Google around, perhaps you will find some more info or beter detailed methods.

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Out of anxiety, I put off sanding my first canopy moldline for years. Finally, I decided to go for it with the canopy of a 1/32 F-15E. I used a 3-grit sanding/polishing stick. When I had it as polished as possible, there was still a bit of a "foggy" area. I was also pretty tense! Then, I dipped it into Future and pulled out a clear, seamless canopy. Whew! That was 10 years ago and I've approached it carefully, but successfully, several times since.

Rick in Maine

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I generally wet sand starting at 800 or 1000 grit (depending on how big the mold line or other defect is) and sand progressively to 2000. Finally, polish with a fingernail buffer, Novus plastic polish, Flitz, or Pol metal polish. Dip in Future.

The problem with the three and four grit sticks is that you never know what grit you are using, and most of them start too coarse.

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Regardless of what you use to sand with, I use Tamiya Finish Polish and a clean cotton rag to polish the canopy. Take your time and you won't even need to use a clear coat over it.

I would avoid using Novus if you plan on painting on the canopy, whether it be clear or not. Novus contains silicone which will prevent anything from sticking on top of it.

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I usually suggest the micro-mesh craft set.

Has nine 2" square pads of micro mesh, from 1500 to 12000(1micron) and a bottle of polish and three sanding sticks.

The pads are sodt so mould around curved surfaces.

Exactly. Finish off with a dip or two in Future, and you have a perfectly clear, seamless canopy.

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Canopy Cleanup the Micromesh way

Items used

MicroMesh Craft Kit, blade and Klear/Future.


Step 1. Using a New Xacto #11 Blade, remove the seam line.

Step 2. Using various grades of Micro Mesh 2x2 Touch Pads and water as a lubricant, sand in a straight line until only the sratches created by the the current grade is visible. Then using the next grade up sand at 90 degrees to the previous grade. When you reach the 12000 grade, your canopy should be nearly crystal clear.

Step 3. The only thing left is to dip the whole canopy in Klear/Future floor polish, and leave to dry overnight.




and heres the results after the overnight drying



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Well I did it with a nail polishing stick I got at the Dollar Tree. It worked like a charm. I used the white then the orange and finish with the gray side and dipped it in future. Came out perfect. Thanks for all the input. I'm good to go now. ARC forums introduced me to polishing sticks and you guys gave me the confidence to try it.

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