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To those with experience with this stuff, what's the way to go? I'm about to make an order for supplies (hopefully tomorrow if I get good feedback on this), and seeing as I'll need this for my B-58, and some others coming up, what's good? I'm using the RoG kit decals for the Hustler, and for my others, I'll be using the kit decals for the Academy, Hasegawa, Tamiya and Monogram kits; additionally, I'll be using decals from aeromaster, eagle strike, impact decals, and twobobs. I understand that decals vary in thickness, hence why I've mentioned what I'll be using. Advice is welcomed!

With that said, I'm off to bed :-D

TIA,

Cheers!

Justin

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I'll give this a shot. You're going to find a lot of people that are happy with Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. Problematic decals may require something "hotter" like Solvaset.

Having said that, some people use Future, some use white vinegar, some use other homemade concoctions. You can probably find previous threads on the subject by doing a search.

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You will get many replies with different recommendations. Perhaps as already mentioned, the most common and least likely to damage fragile decals are MicroSet and MicroSol. I use PollyScale's Set and Sol solutions myself, the Sol is a little hotter then MicroSol.

I use aftermarket decals 99.9% of the time, so I really can't address what is needed for kit decals.

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I use aftermarket decals most of the time. I use Micro Set, Micro Sol, and Solvaset. If you are just starting into modeling, I would try some kit decals on a "clunker" model to see how to use the decal solutions. Don't start out with Solvaset. It is a hotter solution for stubborn decals, which are usually kit decals. Read the directions with the Micro Set - Micro Sol system. Some kit decals are unusable. If you get kit decals made by Cartograph, you have excellent decals. Good Luck

Just a quick addition. My favorite is Solvaset, followed closely by the Micro Set/Sol system. I do have some Champ setting solution, but use it sparingly. It is really volatile stuff. I tried some on some difficult decals once. Like usual, I used an "out of the way" type of decal and it turned it into a blob. I wouldn't start out with Champ, but I am glad to have a bottle in my arsenal.

Edited by balls47
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As Chuck mentioned here, many times you'll get entirely different if not conflicting recommendations when asking advice for products. I've been an avid user of Solvaset for years now and have never experienced any of the so-called problems attributed to this product. Likewise, I have used MicroSol/MicroSet before without any mishaps. If anything, I just prefer Solvaset as it requires fewer applications to get your decals to settle properly. If concerned about it being "too hot" for those exquisite after market decals you can simply dip the brush included in the cap in a small amount of water to slightly dilute the solution. I did this when I first started using Solvaset, having heard so many complaints of it being such an aggressive setting solution. However, over time I stopped this practice and simply use it on kit decals as well as after market brands. Just my opinion but I truly feel MicroSol/MicroSet require far more time and applications to get the same results I get with a few applications of Solvaset.

Greg

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It's a bit difficult to find but lately for me Gunze Mr. Setter & Mr. Softer have been replacing the Micro system, which wasn't performing badly...just tried something new and I liked it a bit better. Solvaset should be on your bench but not the first thing you reach for; and always experiment first with scrap decals when using a new liquid (ask me how I can suggest this).

Cheers

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I have on my bench, Solvaset, Mr softer and Setter, and Micro Set and sol. all good and all used differently.

MOST importantly for me, on acryllic finishes, is to use the stuff sparingly, and avoid overflowing onto paint as it will lift or ruin finishes. (ask me how I know...).

The MR. by Gunze stuff, is ok, but I found it disolved and made"puddles" of the paint, which made the decals look weird, but this was on Academy decals.

The micro set and sol work great on aftermarket decals, and is what I use mostly.

Cheers

H.

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I have not had any problem with the decal setting solutions damaging my acrylic paints, as I always spray future prior to any decal application.

My favorit setting solution was called SuperSol. but now I cannot find it anymore and tried the Model Master brand (too weak). I have microset, and solvaset. I perfer the hottest solution working with just a few decals at a time. I apply the decal, touch the applied decal with a dry corner of a paper towl to draw out the mosture from the decal. Then with a paint brush I apply my setting solution. Put the model down for about 24 hours. the next day I apply more decals.

I apply more setting solution to the 24hour old decals, plus the newly added decals. After appling all the decals I lightly wash the applied decals with soapy water then apply more future.

Don923(flylo)

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Hi, the two types I use are Micro-sol/set these are good to go with revell/monogram decals & most aftermarket one like Two Bobs, but I also use Gunz Mr setter/softner as well with Japanese decals like Tamiya's. One thing if you use Mr setter on aftermarket decals always try it on one you won't be using, setter/softner has bleached & reacted badly with superscale & Tally-O decals

can't say about Solvoset never seen it in the UK, Daco produce a set of decal solutions in three types & strengths as well.

HTH Andy.

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Thanks for the heads up fellas! Got my order off; wound up getting both the Micro-set/sol set and the Solvaset. Thought about the gunze, but I couldn't find the "Mr. Softer", only the Mr. Setter on Sprue Bros (it might've been the other way around, can't recall off the top of my head, just know they only had the one in stock). Figured I could play around with both and see how I like them. Thanks for the input! I appreciate it!

Cheers,

Justin

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Sounds great Justin. Enjoy and do a little experimenting, as it's more about personal taste and experience with products than following the masses around. You have two sets of quality products to use and will most likely enjoy utilizing both for your needs. :rofl:

Greg

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For high-end, thin decals (most anything Microscale prints), Micro Set and Sol are enough. For thicker ones, use Solvaset. For really stubbon ones, use Champ's stuff. If Champ's won't make it settle, nothing will. (Champ's will literally dissolve thin decals into clumps of goo, it is FAR stronger than any other brand---though even it can't make a bad batch of Revellogram ones comform)

http://www.minot.com/champ/other.htm

Edited by David Hingtgen
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For high-end, thin decals (most anything Microscale prints), Micro Set and Sol are enough. For thicker ones, use Solvaset. For really stubbon ones, use Champ's stuff. If Champ's won't make it settle, nothing will. (Champ's will literally dissolve thin decals into clumps of goo, it is FAR stronger than any other brand---though even it can't make a bad batch of Revellogram ones comform)

http://www.minot.com/champ/other.htm

I think the Revellogram ones are simply evil - which is why I typically go aftermarket for decals. I'm just using the standard kit decals on my hustler cause, well, I was just lazy on that one, and I like the S.E.A. scheme that it came with. what can I say, it's an OOB build....

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The MR. by Gunze stuff, is ok, but I found it disolved and made"puddles" of the paint, which made the decals look weird, but this was on Academy decals.

I had exactly the same problem using Mr. Mark Softer on my Academy model with the Cartograf decals provided...

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