Cutaway 1/48 Curtiss P-36 Hawk

[Army_Air_Force]

Inspired by the Cutaway Space Shuttle build that is currently ongoing elsewhere on this forum, I wanted to modify a large kit I have into a cutaway model. However, before diving into that, I wanted to practice the techniques on a smaller 1/48 kit, which is where the P-36 Hawk by Academy comes in.

Here's the kit.....

and the shaded areas on the plan below show the planned areas that will be cutaway.

There's no planned finishing date for the build, and I don't know as yet how much and how far 1/48 scale can take me in the way of detailing, so it's going to be an interesting build and a learning experience!

Here's the aircraft I am planning to model.....

Edited October 22, 2010 by Army_Air_Force

[robw_uk]

good luck with this - will keep an eye on your proegress

[Army_Air_Force]

So far, the build has been limited to studying the kit and almost 300 photos and drawings of the P-36 to decide what gets built and how. I don't want to rush in to it, as I have to decide what can be seen through the various holes and how to make it and modify the kit. Fortunately the walkaround I have was done during the aircrafts winter maintenance at Duxford, so many of the panels and fairings are removed, showing what goes on behind them.

[K2Pete]

I love cutaways! And I'm glad the Space Shuttle cutaway has been a source of inspiration for ya!

On Large Scale Planes there are a couple of cutaways and here's link to one of 'em. It's a Hellcat and may just give you an idea as to how to progress with yours.

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=5610

It's amazing how much forethought is involved with these things! But, the satisfaction upon completion is just as amazing!

I'll be watchin'

Pete

(near Niagara Falls)

[Army_Air_Force]

As soon as I saw the shuttle thread, I said to myself I have to do something like that. Stunning work.

Thanks for that link, very useful. Thankfully the walkaround, combined with a good cutaway drawing covers most of the internal structure and details, so I just need to work out how much will be seen through the openings, and which parts need modifying or scratch building.

I've already spotted a few differences in the kit compared to the walkaround photos, some just small differences like a different seat shape and rudder pedals. I can see I'll be spending twice as much time studying pictures as building!

[Army_Air_Force]

I decided the best way to work out what needed building was to open up the holes in the fuselage side. I can now see to what extent the interior needs to be made and what details will be needed. Also cut out is the new firewall.

[Big Kev]

Here's a few more links to Chris's amazing cutaway builds for inspiration:

Combat He 219

Revell Tornado

Revell Phantom - with working engine!

Plenty more like that from Chris on LSP. Good luck with your P-36! Should be fun to watch, and it looks like you're off to a good start.

Kev

[Army_Air_Force]

Rudder and fin structure started tonight..... actually they took most of the evening!

[Army_Air_Force]

Another evening spent on the fin and rudder adding additional ribs and stringers, plus a fuselage former was made.

[Army_Air_Force]

No photos from tonight. I spent quite some time trying to mark out the correct former, longeron and stringer positions in the fuselage, and also added some styrene, extending the fuselage skin downward in the wing root position. This forms part of the cockpit wall ahead and behind the pilot. This was blended with Milliput and needs sanding prior to adding formers and stringers.

[Army_Air_Force]

Spent tonight sanding the milliput in the wing fillet and adding stringers cut from 0.25mm sheet.

[mlicari]

Great progress so far! I have this kit in my stash...and I'm way too intimidated to do what you're doing!

Mike

[Army_Air_Force]

I did wonder whether I should have used a larger kit, but if I can do it on this one, my future larger builds should be simple in comparison!

[Army_Air_Force]

Added some formers tonight. They were done in two stages. Firstly short pieces of 0.25mm styrene strip were cut and glued in each space between the stringers. After that, a full strip was glued over the top to give the former the extra thickness over the stringer.

[Mackie]

Ok, that link to the Phantom was just ridiculous!

Anyway, your progress looks great so far. Keep us posted. I'm very interested in any tips you have because I have 4 'clear edition / visible' projects in the stash.

Anyone know how to fill in ejector pin marks in clear styrene or should I just leave 'em be?

[Army_Air_Force]

I would do a test on some clear sprue first, but you should be able to sand them out with wet and dry paper used wet, then polish back to clear. I've used T-Cut colour restorer ( car paint polish ) and toothpaste before polishing plastic. Some products will react with the styrene, which is why a test is wise.

In the ARC gallery, there's a B-17 with a clear side, but the seam with the non-clear side and certain other parts are painted olive drab, hiding the seam, and only leaving clear areas like the cutaway sections on my model. You may be able to paint over the ejector pin areas, just leaving clear where you need to see?

[Mackie]

I would do a test on some clear sprue first, but you should be able to sand them out with wet and dry paper used wet, then polish back to clear. I've used T-Cut colour restorer ( car paint polish ) and toothpaste before polishing plastic. Some products will react with the styrene, which is why a test is wise.

In the ARC gallery, there's a B-17 with a clear side, but the seam with the non-clear side and certain other parts are painted olive drab, hiding the seam, and only leaving clear areas like the cutaway sections on my model. You may be able to paint over the ejector pin areas, just leaving clear where you need to see?

Most of the e-pin marks seem to be the indented type rather than the raised type. I'm wondering if I filled them in with Krystal Klear, etc. would do the trick? Experimentation time...

[Army_Air_Force]

Yes, much experimenting before you go for the final build!

[K2Pete]

It looks like you're doing a fine job! And it seems like you're having fun, too!

Looking at the pix, I'm wondering what type of glue you're using. The light reflections make it look pretty thick .. is it?

Keep these updates coming!

Pete

[K2Pete]

Most of the e-pin marks seem to be the indented type rather than the raised type. I'm wondering if I filled them in with Krystal Klear, etc. would do the trick? Experimentation time...

I would just sand the heck out of the indents. Start with coarse paper then go thru the range to really fine sandpaper and finish off with a coat, or 5, of Future.

I've found it doesn't matter how deep you go into the plastic, nobody can tell the thickness you've thinned it down to. But be careful, because every little scratch will show. You've gotta experiment with this ... it's the only way to measure your results.

Pete

[Army_Air_Force]

The glue is a liquid solvent which is quite potent. The first parts were applied using a worn OO brush, so perhaps a little too much solvent ran into the joints. I'm now using a OOO with about three hairs left on it! The stringers which are about 0.25mm square have been tricky to apply, resulting in some prodding back down onto the surface of the model, and then squeezing some melted plastic out of the joint. I wasn't sure of the best way of removing this, so have been wiping along the joint with a solvent wet brush before it set to blend it in.

I'm hoping a gentle rub with wire wool will help to smooth things out, plus much will be hidden by interior features.

I was meant to be flying my P-47N at an R/C show this weekend, but it's raining, so didn't go, so plan to get on with the Hawk instead.

Edited May 29, 2010 by Army_Air_Force

[K2Pete]

I've been using Tamiya's Extra Thin cement. It comes with it's own little applicator brush and works beautifully.

Removing all the melted plastic just ads extra work for you. That may take much of the fun out of the build.

Rubbing it all down with steel wool will also round off the plastic stringers too.

I use .25 mm strips too and if you place one end on the model and touch the Tamiya applicator brush to the strip, the glue will flow down the strip and adheres nicely. And quickly! And the sharp corners of the strips stay intact. My fun comes in working quickly and this glue allows me to to do these mundane, repetitive jobs just once.

You may wanna give this cement a try. As you said, work everything out at this smaller scale, and the larger scale's results will be a work of art! :)

Pete

[Army_Air_Force]

I'm attaching the stringers in a similar way, tack one end, pull straight, then run the brush along the join. I think my problem is the solvent is too strong and evaporates too quickly, probably meant for acrylic rather than styrene. I'll have a look in the hobby shop next trip out.

I've just bought a 1/48 Monogram Clear sided B-17 30 seconds ago off ebay, so there's another one for the cutaway treatment!

Edited May 29, 2010 by Army_Air_Force

[Army_Air_Force]

Here's a photo of the fuselage in natural light rather than under the flash, which shows the fuselage looking more as it actually does. The flash reflects off the glue and makes the fuselage look more messy than in reality.

[Army_Air_Force]

Progress so far today.....

The remaining formers in the rear fuselage were made, followed by fitting the cockpit rear former and floor. The floor was extended to meet up with the firewall, which was also glued in. A small strip of fuselage skin was required in the wing root area to fill the gap where the floor extends below the curve of the wing seat.