Isaac Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) Here is my entry. Hasegawa 1/48th. I plan to add some ultracast wheels and control surfaces as well as eduard seat belts. I think I have a squadron vac formed canopy somewhere. Not much going on in the inside. Trying to concentrate more on the visible outside areas. I attempted to paint the dial details. Joined the upper wings to the fuselage to ensure a perfect fit. Also added the reinforcement strips. Here is how she looks now. Had to use a bit of superglue around all the leading edge inserts and sand them into shape. Edited May 19, 2010 by Isaac Quote Link to post Share on other sites
is it windy yet? Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Looking nice. I want to get to mine, someday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Look what came for me in the mail today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 Made some progress. I had been traveling for work on and off for the past month and a half. I have the control surfaces on. Took some time. I should have cut the ailerons off before I had the wings glued together. :lol: Also had to add a shim of plasticard to restore what I had taken off. Perhaps the ailerons weren't meant to be repositioned. I don't know what to do about this gap. I think I have the lower wing to fuselage join taken care off. Mr surfacer will be the real test. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rodney.cross Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Great work mate gotta love the ultracast parts Crossy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Looking good, Isaac. Welcome back! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 Thanks Mike and Crossy! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Got her all primed up with mr surfacer 1200 thinned with mr color leveling thinner. I traced the outline of the camo with a pencil. I sprayed Gunze Dark Earth. I then lighted it with tamiya buff. I was prepared to spray my Gunze dark green but when I opened up the bottle, it was all dried out. Where am I going to get gunze dark green from in any reasonable time? Not going to happen. I pulled out the instruction sheet for a Tamiya Spitfire and looked for the tamiya mixing recommendation for dark green. It recommended 5 parts XF-62 Olive Drab to 1 part XF-58 Olive Green. This was too dark and didn't have enough olive. I added more Olive Drab and lightened it with Buff until I got something that I was satisfied with. I sprayed the outline of the green camo with my Tamiya Super Fine airbrush and later filled it in with my Iwata Revolution. I'm pretty happy with it. I'm going to touch up the demarcation line in a few areas where it is too soft and fill out a few areas I seem to have missed. I will then lighten it with more buff and spray it over the middle of panel lines to simulate fading as I did with the Dark Earth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
is it windy yet? Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Nice work on mixing of the paint. I like the toning down with the buff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Today I touched up the demarcation line and faded the green by adding more buff. Once again for this type of work I use my Tamiya "Super Fine" airbrush. The fading looks excessive but after future, decaling, future, wash, post shade, and a flat coat, it will all be toned down. I'm going to let this cure until tomorrow, then I will give it a light coat of future to protect it. I still need to paint the underside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Isaac, some sweet paint work there! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 Isaac, some sweet paint work there! Thanks Mike! The gloss coat is on. Tamiya Clear thinned with tamiya thinners. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Touvdal Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 You rearly know how to handle a airbrush cheers Jes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rampage55 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Beautiful paint work Issac!...I'm getting ready to start painting my Hurricane and your build certainly is an inspiration. Great stuff... Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I like the paint work- I'm just about ready to start these colors myself on my "Rock you like a Hurricane" post Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 You rearly know how to handle a airbrush cheers Jes Thank you! Its been a lot of trial and error. Beautiful paint work Issac!...I'm getting ready to start painting my Hurricane and your build certainly is an inspiration.Great stuff... Mark Hah, your build has been an inspiration to me! Looks like the circle is complete. I like the paint work- I'm just about ready to start these colors myself on my "Rock you like a Hurricane" post :lol: Dude, rock it! Are you doing a tamiya mix for the green or are you going with the new tamiya green? XF-8X... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 I plan on using the new Tamiya green that XF-8x you mention. However I will also do some color blending/spotting like you dud with some other greens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Well, I started to chicken out of painting the roundels on. The hasegawa decals began to curl up on their edges. I've never had that happen before so I pulled them off and began cutting out circles with an olfa cutter. Here is where the stands right now. Red: Tamiya Red plus red brown. Probably something like 12:1 maybe? Yellow: Tamiya yellow plus Orange. 8:1 maybe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 It's always exciting when you pull those paint masks off! Drum roll please... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Isaac, Stupendous work... :wub: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lock n' Load Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 One quick notice... before you forget how to mix that red, you should also paint the Gun fairings, or are you going to cover them up as if they were new? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 It's always exciting when you pull those paint masks off! Drum roll please... I'm actually scared. I tried to spray light coats so it wouldn't bleed under. Isaac,Stupendous work... :( Thanks buddy. One quick notice... before you forget how to mix that red, you should also paint the Gun fairings, or are you going to cover them up as if they were new? I'll get the gun fairings a bit later on. I also have to paint the wing walk areas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Army_Air_Force Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 I'm actually scared. I tried to spray light coats so it wouldn't bleed under. I've always sprayed the base colour over any masked area first. Let that dry and then spray the actual colour you want. ( ie, if your plane is Olive Drab, and you are spraying a black marking on, spray OD first, then black ) The first base coat seals the edge of the mask, and if any paint bleeds under, it is the same colour as the background, so the bleed won't be seen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 I've always sprayed the base colour over any masked area first. Let that dry and then spray the actual colour you want. ( ie, if your plane is Olive Drab, and you are spraying a black marking on, spray OD first, then black )The first base coat seals the edge of the mask, and if any paint bleeds under, it is the same colour as the background, so the bleed won't be seen. That is a good tip. Another good tip is just to spray some clear varnish. I was feeling lazy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 That is a good tip. Another good tip is just to spray some clear varnish. I was feeling lazy. I use Future for this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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