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Russian cold war jets


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(Warsaw Pact pilot, all three airbrakes can be lowered unlike on the Fujimi kit,...)

Aren't the airbrakes on the MiG-21 of an interlinked configuration so that they can only deploy all three at the same time, so having either just the front pair or just the rear one deployed would be inaccurate..?

Cheers,

Andre

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Aren't the airbrakes on the MiG-21 of an interlinked configuration so that they can only deploy all three at the same time, so having either just the front pair or just the rear one deployed would be inaccurate..?

For me:

- if there's nothing under the fuselage (fuel tank, gun or recce pod), the three airbrakes are used

- if there's an under fuselage tank or a pod, only the front airbrakes can be deployed and rear one is locked shut

The option offered by Fujimi doesn't exist. Someone like Piotrek S could confirm or infirm this.

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I would suggest to stay away from ALL Fujimy and Hasegawa kits of Russian/Soviet subjects.

...

MiG-23 and MiG-27 go for Zvezda

...

I disagree here. Zvezda completely messed up the canopies of both kits and the whole nose of the MiG-27.

MiG-27

Real plane: Indian MiG-27, Airliners

Model: Zvezda

MiG-23

Real world:Airliners

Model: Zvezda

Edited by Laurent
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Amodel - all one word, no space, no hyphen, no capital A capital M etc etc........

I don't think it 'means' anything - probably just named to be first in any list.....

A Ukrainian company that makes a range of injection-moulded kit that no other company would touch - including a lot of Soviet types.

They are limited-run, low-pressure moulds and as a consequence, have large sprue gates which means that the rib joining the sprue (runner) to the actual part is thicker than the moulded part.

So every part has to be cleaned up to remove the 'rib' after you have snipped it off the runner.

The parts are also sometimes 'indistinct' - i.e. not as precise, lacking dead flat sides and sharp corners and sometimes have flash on them.

But some of the tiniest parts are superb - giving the smallest detail (when cleaned up).

And.... each new release gets better and better - their new White Knight & Spaceship One is a delight....

ss1_006.jpg

As you can tell, I am a big fan - because they do all the subjects I am interested in.

Sure, they need a bit of work (its called modelling), but they are accurate and prolific in their coverage of Soviet subjects.

Ken

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I disagree here. Zvezda completely messed up the canopies of both kits and the whole nose of the MiG-27.

- True, but considering the options (Academy or Hasegawa) they are still much much better bet!

OH - BTW

Su-25 both Zvezda and KP are incorrect, I personally, chose Zvezda, but the amount of work on changes badly required is probably the same.

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Su-25 both Zvezda and KP are incorrect, I personally, chose Zvezda, but the amount of work on changes badly required is probably the same.

Could you please explain us what is wrong with the KP kit (appart from the raised panel lines and lack of detailing) ? Perhaps in another topic ?

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MiG-23 and MiG-27 go for Zvezda

Depends on what generation MiG-23/27 you're looking for. There was some article here not long ago that debunked the myth that the Hasegawa -23 is a terribly inaccurate kit. It's not perfect (what is?), but it's a pretty dang accurate first-generation Flogger.

The Hasegawa -27 is also a an early version. Also pretty accurate for what it is.

For later Floggers, go Zvezda.

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Amodel - all one word, no space, no hyphen, no capital A capital M etc etc........

So every part has to be cleaned up to remove the 'rib' after you have snipped it off the runner.

Ken, if you don't mind, I would like to disagree here.

Everytime I've tried to snip parts off Amodel trees, I end up removing material from the part being snipped from the tree. Instead, I've found it best to use a razor saw (like the JLC one) to remove parts from Amodel trees. Sure you'll have more sanding, but in my experience you won't have to re-add material taken from the part when snipped. I hope that makes sense.

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Fujimi MiG-21s are nice little kits indeed but the Zvezda Bis kit (I'm not happy with the PFM kit) is:

- cheaper (in Europe at least)

- more accurate in shape

- more detailed (detailed cockpit side walls for example) and detailing is accurate (Warsaw Pact pilot, all three airbrakes can be lowered unlike on the Fujimi kit,...)

- as easy to build (except for a few small parts)

For these reasons, if someone wants to buy a 1/72 MiG-21 bis kit, I believe that the Zvezda kit is the way to go. If you already have the Fujimi kit, I'd say build it and forget about accuracy as it's hopeless in this area.

Laurent,

I am depressed now, what am i gonna do with my three Fujimi Mig21s?????

You want to send me a Zvesda Mig 21 to me in australia? In return, I can send you one of my spare Fujimi ones hahaha! :cop:

regards,

Ol

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I am depressed now, what am i gonna do with my three Fujimi Mig21s?????

Shut down the "rivet counting" lobe of your brain (if you have one) and build them OOB ! Again they are very nice kits so very relaxing to build. Oh there are at least two things better in the Fujimi kits:

- the panel lines are sharper

- the landing gear leg wells have some ribing in tem; they're smooth in the Zvezda kits

You want to send me a Zvesda Mig 21 to me in australia? In return, I can send you one of my spare Fujimi ones hahaha! :cop:

Dream on dude :)

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As we speak about Fishbed`s airbrakes. Underbelly pylon has a microswitch and if you hang something there it cut off rear airbrake. List is very short: 490 l tank, 800 l tank, SPS-141 ECM pod, nuke. Wait I heard that also one H-66 agm fits there.

And of course pods D & R (under recce Fishbeds).

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Everytime I've tried to snip parts off Amodel trees, I end up removing material from the part being snipped from the tree. Instead, I've found it best to use a razor saw (like the JLC one) to remove parts from Amodel trees. Sure you'll have more sanding, but in my experience you won't have to re-add material taken from the part when snipped. I hope that makes sense.

I'm not sure if this tip has to be applied on all Amodel kits. The old ones had huge sprue gates but the situation is different now. Also jet kits and WWII or between-wars kits are not tooled by the same people. Detailling of the laters is far better.

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As we speak about Fishbed`s airbrakes. Underbelly pylon has a microswitch and if you hang something there it cut off rear airbrake. List is very short: 490 l tank, 800 l tank, SPS-141 ECM pod, nuke. Wait I heard that also one H-66 agm fits there.

And of course pods D & R (under recce Fishbeds).

And GP9 gun pod ?

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I'm not sure if this tip has to be applied on all Amodel kits. The old ones had huge sprue gates but the situation is different now. Also jet kits and WWII or between-wars kits are not tooled by the same people. Detailling of the laters is far better.

I have adopted a technique of first thinning down the thick gate before cutting the moulded part from the sprue (runner)

This is an example of what I mean by the gate being thicker than the molded part.....

Amodel%20part%20cut%20example.jpg

This is what I do....

Amodel%20part%20cut%20diag.jpg

I haven't had Matt's experience of tearing the moulded part - maybe different mouldings as Laurent says ???

Sorry for going OT.....

Ken

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And GP9 gun pod ?

True, true, GP-9 under PF and PFM.

Fujimi`s Fishbed is looking quite good. If you are desperate to make some improvment, there are few resin sets from Quickboost. Even a spine with tail propper to MF version.

IMHO Su-15 from Trumpeter and MiG-15 from HobbyBoss are quite good.

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