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i finally got around to trying mr. color paints. and there are stringy spider web like things shooting out of my airbrush, and floating all over the place.

i am spraying 16440 at 8 psi.thinned around 50/50 i tried 70 paint/30 thinner and it got worse so i tried 30/70 still the same crap.

i really hope this is not the way all of them spray. does anyone have some advice on what i can do to stop this? i am so angry right now because i bought about 20 of the usual colors and if they are all like this i am out a huge amount of coin.

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What did you use for thinner? I use Mr. Color self-leveling thinner or regular laquer thinner with a few drops of Mr. Color retarder and have no problem. Most people who have reported the cotton candy effect have tracked the issue back to the thinner they were using.

HTH,

Dave

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I had the same happen to me.

Check the thinner your using and as the old addage goes, practice, practice, practice. Be sure to thoroughly clean your airbrush out as well.

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Cobwebs are caused by paint not being thinned enough and paint drying on the tip. Also 8psi is too low step it up to 15-18psi. Be sure to use proper thinner with Mr. Color paint.

It should go on as smooth as silk. :thumbsup:

cheers

Andy

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thanks for the replies. i was using mr color leveling thinner just not enough of it. 8 psi sprays great from my gravity feed brush now that i got the mix right

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I just thin my mr hobby paints with methylated spirits. Works fine for me.

Chris

Christ, enough additives to kill a cow!

"Denatured alcohol is used as a solvent and as fuel for spirit burners and camping stoves. It is also known as methylated spirits, especially in Australia and New Zealand. Because of the diversity of industrial uses for denatured alcohol, hundreds of additives and denaturing methods have been used. Traditionally, the main additive is 10% methanol, giving rise to the term 'methylated spirit'. Other typical additives include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, and denatonium."

How about just using what is recommended regular Acrylic Lacquer thinner. Guaranteed to be a crazy mixture of everything above plus more!

Really guys what ever works for you.

Please wear an approved breathing mask and the proper ventilation when spraying your chemicals.

cheers :thumbsup:

Andy

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thanks for the replies. i was using mr color leveling thinner just not enough of it. 8 psi sprays great from my gravity feed brush now that i got the mix right

cool :thumbsup:

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I use denatured alcohol for clean-up, but always use leveling thinner for the actual painting.

Leveling thinner is water-of-life to model builders; I've used it with Gunze and Tamiya acrylics, and nothing out there makes for a better finish!!

Edited by RotorheadTX
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Just as an aside, don't know if anyone else has seen this, but I have always found that it is just the grays/blue-grays that do this. I have never had any other Gunze lacquer turn my airbrush into a silly-string shooter, but I always have to be sure to add enough thinner to their grays such as x6440/x6375/x6320 etc. Always seemed to me that it was a problem unique to those colors.

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Funny you should mention that. The only time I had any stringing was when I was shooting some RLM76. That was the only time it happened. I added more thinner and the stringing stopped.

I don't know if it is the color or not. I now thin Mr Color quite a bit. It works better and the colors are easier to adjust for depth, shade, and so forth.

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Yup, that's another one! RLM76 - been a while now since I did any Luft stuff, but now that I think back, RLM76 was a real beachball. Had to thin that way past where I normally thin paints to. On my Dragon Ho229 I actually just used a Tamiya spray bomb rather than mess with Gunze's RLM76 - airbrushed the greens without any problems though.

And yet, I have never had that problem with any of the "true" blues like Gloss Sea Blue or Non-Specular Sea Blue, Intermediate Blue or even USN Blue-Gray. So far it has just been RLM76 and some of the grays like I mentioned.

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