Cleaning before painting

[Rick De Smet]

Hi guys,

Maybe a very stupid question but what do you guys use to degrease your model before you paint it? Whats best?

I just want to be sure I don't use anything that would damage the model.

Thanks

Rick

[arnobiz]

Liquid Fairy works well for me: I put the model in a sink filled with cold (not to warp the plastic) water and liquid Fairy, brush it with a toothbrush where needed.

[The Loggie]

G'day Rick. Normal dish-washing set-up (pre-insertingn the dirty dishes). The water must not be too hot for your hands to soak. After washing, rinse the model in equally warm water (warmer than tepid). Let it drip-dry/drain (with several turnings at hour-intervals).

After washing the model, let your other half do the dishes.

George, out......................

Edited June 25, 2010 by The Loggie

[Triarius]

I use either Formula 409, Windex, ethyl alcohol (Everclear), 90% isopropyl alcohol, or Simple Green solution 50%. The last has to be rinsed off with distilled water. I generally prefer the first three, although I often wash parts before assembley with the Simple Green solution, then wipe them down with one of the first three, most often ethyl alcohol before painting, but that depends on how much I've handled them.

Denatured alcohol can be used instead of ethyl.

[Aigore]

Clean your model? :)

Something I should do but never remember to :P

[Hawkeye's Hobbies]

ethyl alcohol (Everclear)

I thought this was used to clean the inside of the modeler doing the cleaning of the model? If you consume this liberally, you won't care if the model is clean. :)

[Huey Gunner]

I clean before assembly. Clean the whole sprue trees using "Dawn" dishsoap. It's a degreasing dishsoap product. For resin I use "Simple Green" and rinse with regular warm tap water.

[Triarius]

I thought this was used to clean the inside of the modeler doing the cleaning of the model? If you consume this liberally, you won't care if the model is clean.

Yes, it is the active ingredient in "the good ole hooch." But I prefer my "internal cleaners" and "spinal lubricants" with more side chains…

[Hawkeye's Hobbies]

Yes, it is the active ingredient in "the good ole hooch." But I prefer my "internal cleaners" and "spinal lubricants" with more side chains…

Coloring only contributes to the headache after. Miss having access to the White Lightning I used to be able to get in the Missouri Ozarks. That stuff made Everclear seem tame by comparison!

[Triarius]

Coloring only contributes to the headache after. Miss having access to the White Lightning I used to be able to get in the Missouri Ozarks. That stuff made Everclear seem tame by comparison!

The stuff in the mountains of North Carolina was similar. We also used it to kill ticks.

Side chains don't only add color, but also flavor. And you can avoid most of the headache problem by drinking water to the amount of three times the amount of alcohol consumed. Most hangovers are 90% dehydration.

[josh1813]

It's a shame it's a felony sounds like I'm missing out on a real export opportunity as I live right in the middle of the mooshine capital of the world otherwise known as Tennessee (or about 20 minutes from the hills that Triarius speaks of.). Also cudos on the use of side chains in a none-polymeric context, you got 1000 points for that. OK enough of my chemisty/hillbilly ramblings....back to work.

[Rick in Maine]

I've never bathed a model. :blink: Maybe that's why the cave smells like a locker room! Never had a problem that I could directly attribute to an unwashed model. By the time I'm ready to paint, most models have had at least a light pass of fine grit sandpaper or sticks over pretty much every surface.

I do wash my hands before most building sessions. Ages ago, my momma said I had to that before and after just about everything!

Relax and build something!

Rick in Maine

[Old Blind Dog]

For something like a Tamiya kit, a simple rub-down with 70 per cent Isopropyl will suffice.

For older "vintage" kits or products from smaller manufturers (say ICM or AModel) I will generally give the parts a bath in warm soapy water using Palmolive dish detergent. Rinse in cold water and allow to air dry; that usually eliminates any mold release agent or other types of grease.

If there's a lot of truly hard to removed caked on glop; an overnight soak in Simple Green, followed by a rinse in cold water usually does the trick.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

[Ace Airspeed]

70% isopropyl alcohol prior to paint. Washing the parts prior to build does nothing for the oil you transfer from your hands while building.

[Rick De Smet]

Thanks for the info guys!

I'll try to find isopropyl alcohol somewhere around here and give it a try.

Greetings

Rick

[Old Blind Dog]

70% isopropyl alcohol prior to paint. Washing the parts prior to build does nothing for the oil you transfer from your hands while building.

This is true; except that with older kits or kits from eastern Europe which have a lot of mold-release agent on the parts, it's necessary to wash that stuff off. Subsequently, a rub-down with Iso will take care of any body oils transfered to the plastic during handling.

cheers

Old Blind Dog