Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello

I'm joining the Starfighter groupbuild with a 72nd scale model, my friend Fabien aka Faab104 give me a lot of tips for the building, thanks to him assembly is more easier for me

BOXART.jpg

The cockpit out of box,

cockpit.jpg

I've just add a wire on the landing gear made from streched sprue. I've used Tamiya extra thin cement for that.

land.jpg

No problem to put together the part of the front and back fuselage, once again I've used the green Tamiya glue

fus1.jpg

Following advice from Faab104, I've not glue the front of the landing gear bay with the fuselage, like that air intake fit better with the fuselage.

fus2.jpg

I've used just a little of Mr Surfacer 500

fus3.jpg

Ivan

Edited by Fanakit
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ivan ,

Welcome to the F-104 GB. That's a very nice start you have here. What livery are you going to choose for your Starfighter? Japanese? Box decals?

I'll follow this build.

Regards

Eric B.

Edited by Eric B.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Eric for your welcome on the GB, I hope to see your model soon on Fanakit

The livery I choose is a Japenese one, with a large red strip on the fuselage

Hey Fabien I follow your advice, I hope you will not disappointed

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ivan,

You've made great progress already on your Starfighter. I like to read your descriptions of the build and agree with the others about your choice of subject; I think I can guess which scheme you mean. This will be another frequently-visited topic I'm sure.

Cheers,

Andrew.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for your comment AndrewS :whistle:

Some progress :

I've used Evergreen Stryrene for making a few detail very easy to do thanks to Tamiya Extra Thin cement:

1.jpg

No problem for the wings, very easy to fit with the fuselage, to obtain correct angle I put verticaly the model over the 1/72 front view drawing of the Lock On book

2.jpg

I've used water sand paper from grade 400 to 2000 and Micro Mesh 4000 and 6000 for polishing, a necessary step to obtain gloss surface before applying Alclad

3.jpg

Ivan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Ivan,

More great progress; it sounds like a considerable amount of surface preparation going on prior to the Alclad, but necessary I'm sure. I see that you've added two thin strips to the rear cockpit deck (area behind the seat, under the aft canopy section); I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that the kit deserves a bit of extra attention in this regard.

I'm looking forward to more of your work.

Cheers,

Andrew.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your comments :wierdo:

New stuff of the day :

f104j_-1.jpg

f104j_-2.jpg

I've used carrefuly the Tamiya thin cement for the clear part

f104j_-3.jpg

For filling I've mixed Mr Surfacer 500 with mr color paint to obtain a dark fill less visible under the clear part

f104j_-4.jpg

next step primer painting before Alclad

Ivan

Link to post
Share on other sites
can you tell us how you painted it ?

Very simple, I used Citadel paint (Warhammer paint)

First step : apply basic paint (Citadel Catachan Green)

it takes a few minutes to dry

2nd Step : mix the basic paint with a bit of white

Drybrush with an old brush

3nd step : mix again with more white, drybrush again

that's all

Link to post
Share on other sites
Very simple, I used Citadel paint (Warhammer paint)

First step : apply basic paint (Citadel Catachan Green)

it takes a few minutes to dry

2nd Step : mix the basic paint with a bit of white

Drybrush with an old brush

3nd step : mix again with more white, drybrush again

that's all

Hi, . . Thanks for the above tip . . Sure I could use in my current 104 build... Regards...

Farouk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fabien, Thanks for your comment !

The last two days I had plenty of time for modelling :

alclad.jpg

I sprayed Alclad White aluminium, and on the back of the fuselage, I sprayed black primer for highy polished panel

red.jpg

I sprayed Gunze White H1 before the red, I used to heavy thined my paint with Alcohol to avoid grainy paint surface

The red is a mix of Tamiya X-7 and a little bit of Yellow XF-3

up.jpg

aizu.jpg

Aizu Micron Masking type is very helpful, for masking each color aera.

paint.jpg

Oups I realised the dorsal antenna have a wrong size, I've to correct this before weathering...

Edited by Fanakit
Link to post
Share on other sites
paint.jpg

Oups I realised the dorsal antenna have a wrong size, I've to correct this before weathering...

Ivan, I love the way you treated the "hot metal area" . . an inspiration!! . .

In your painting of the intake/s black (as shown in the box art illustration), does the paint covered the entire depth of the intake trunk; or was there a color demarcation just after the last ring of the cone? If there is a demarcation, appreciate much if you could describe how it's done, seeing that the assembly had been closed already? . . . Regards...

Farouk

Link to post
Share on other sites
Primer gray (Gunze) was airbrushed very thinned, ready for Alclad now

primer.jpg

Ivan

Wow that is a very shiny primer coat you have there. I am not familiar with Primer gray from Gunze. Is it a lacquer? I normally use mr surfacer 1200 which needs to be heavily thinned and even then I can't get such a gloss sheen.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your comments

Wow that is a very shiny primer coat you have there. I am not familiar with Primer gray from Gunze. Is it a lacquer? I normally use mr surfacer 1200 which needs to be heavily thinned and even then I can't get such a gloss sheen.

Isaac > for the primer I used Gunze H316, thinned with denatured Alcohol, easy to spray, easy to clean airbrush, and good stretch of the paint and a gloss sheen result as you can see.

In your painting of the intake/s black (as shown in the box art illustration), does the paint covered the entire depth of the intake trunk; or was there a color demarcation just after the last ring of the cone? If there is a demarcation, appreciate much if you could describe how it's done, seeing that the assembly had been closed already? . . . Regards...

Farouk

Farouk, I do nothing for the interior demarcation, just spray the black paint in a front the intake, at this scale we can see nothing...

patine.jpg

Sorry for this poor pic of the model after a few weathering, only a wash in ungraved line, for the Alclad. I used Dry Pastel in powder I take a brush with a very few water and I apply this mix on the line. After a few minutes the excess is simply remove with humidified cotton, you could find this technic in a step by step (with pictures) on my website : http://fanakit.free.fr/patine/weathering_alclad.html

A wash was applied over the red and white panel too, but this time with artist oil paint (black) heavy thinned with White Spirit.

I cut away all decal film using a new scalpel blade, a lot of stencil in the Hasegawa decal sheet...

detourage1.jpg

detourage.jpg

This Hasegawa decal sheet include all the servitude stencil, I've rarely seen a so good decal sheet with Hasegawa...

Ivan

Edited by Fanakit
Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for your comments

Isaac > for the primer I used Gunze H316, thinned with denatured Alcohol, easy to spray, easy to clean airbrush, and good stretch of the paint and a gloss sheen result as you can see.

Farouk, I do nothing for the interior demarcation, just spray the black paint in a front the intake, at this scale we can see nothing...

Sorry for this poor pic of the model after a few weathering, only a wash in ungraved line, for the Alclad. I used Dry Pastel in powder I take a brush with a very few water and I apply this mix on the line. After a few minutes the excess is simply remove with humidified cotton, you could find this technic in a step by step (with pictures) on my website : http://fanakit.free.fr/patine/weathering_alclad.html

A wash was applied over the red and white panel too, but this time with artist oil paint (black) heavy thinned with White Spirit.

I cut away all decal film using a new scalpel blade, a lot of stencil in the Hasegawa decal sheet...

This Hasegawa decal sheet include all the servitude stencil, I've rarely seen a so good decal sheet with Hasegawa...

Ivan

yes, nothing to see in there, anyway... I'll follow your (and Faab104's) method . . . Many, many thanks...

and, the Dry Pastel, is it CHALK pastel (as opposed to Artist pastel-oil)- scraped to get powder?

Keep the modeling educational tidbits coming for nubs like me! Again, many thanks!!

Farouk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...