Fanakit Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 (edited) Hello I'm joining the Starfighter groupbuild with a 72nd scale model, my friend Fabien aka Faab104 give me a lot of tips for the building, thanks to him assembly is more easier for me The cockpit out of box, I've just add a wire on the landing gear made from streched sprue. I've used Tamiya extra thin cement for that. No problem to put together the part of the front and back fuselage, once again I've used the green Tamiya glue Following advice from Faab104, I've not glue the front of the landing gear bay with the fuselage, like that air intake fit better with the fuselage. I've used just a little of Mr Surfacer 500 Ivan Edited September 2, 2010 by Fanakit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric B. Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 (edited) Hi Ivan , Welcome to the F-104 GB. That's a very nice start you have here. What livery are you going to choose for your Starfighter? Japanese? Box decals? I'll follow this build. Regards Eric B. Edited July 25, 2010 by Eric B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
faab104 Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 Another "Mitsubishi" in the GB !!! the scale 72 is in the place ! Great Start Ivan I already recognize here your applied style ... and excellent choice with 203rd squadron, I like a lot the little bear ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 Thanks Eric for your welcome on the GB, I hope to see your model soon on Fanakit The livery I choose is a Japenese one, with a large red strip on the fuselage Hey Fabien I follow your advice, I hope you will not disappointed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewS Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 Hi Ivan, You've made great progress already on your Starfighter. I like to read your descriptions of the build and agree with the others about your choice of subject; I think I can guess which scheme you mean. This will be another frequently-visited topic I'm sure. Cheers, Andrew. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Thanks for your comment AndrewS Some progress : I've used Evergreen Stryrene for making a few detail very easy to do thanks to Tamiya Extra Thin cement: No problem for the wings, very easy to fit with the fuselage, to obtain correct angle I put verticaly the model over the 1/72 front view drawing of the Lock On book I've used water sand paper from grade 400 to 2000 and Micro Mesh 4000 and 6000 for polishing, a necessary step to obtain gloss surface before applying Alclad Ivan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewS Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Hello Ivan, More great progress; it sounds like a considerable amount of surface preparation going on prior to the Alclad, but necessary I'm sure. I see that you've added two thin strips to the rear cockpit deck (area behind the seat, under the aft canopy section); I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that the kit deserves a bit of extra attention in this regard. I'm looking forward to more of your work. Cheers, Andrew. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
faab104 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Excellent look with the 4 rails !!! your work is perfect aggressive aggressor to come ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flyboyf18 Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Looking real good so far, good to see another 72nd jet here!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Thanks for your comments New stuff of the day : I've used carrefuly the Tamiya thin cement for the clear part For filling I've mixed Mr Surfacer 500 with mr color paint to obtain a dark fill less visible under the clear part next step primer painting before Alclad Ivan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
faab104 Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 (edited) I like !!! The "protection in olive green color" on the instrument panel is great ! can you tell us how you painted it ? Edited August 5, 2010 by faab104 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 can you tell us how you painted it ? Very simple, I used Citadel paint (Warhammer paint) First step : apply basic paint (Citadel Catachan Green) it takes a few minutes to dry 2nd Step : mix the basic paint with a bit of white Drybrush with an old brush 3nd step : mix again with more white, drybrush again that's all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TausugAIR Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 Very simple, I used Citadel paint (Warhammer paint)First step : apply basic paint (Citadel Catachan Green) it takes a few minutes to dry 2nd Step : mix the basic paint with a bit of white Drybrush with an old brush 3nd step : mix again with more white, drybrush again that's all Hi, . . Thanks for the above tip . . Sure I could use in my current 104 build... Regards... Farouk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 Primer gray (Gunze) was airbrushed very thinned, ready for Alclad now Ivan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
faab104 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 impressive shot !!!!! great paint preparation ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) Fabien, Thanks for your comment ! The last two days I had plenty of time for modelling : I sprayed Alclad White aluminium, and on the back of the fuselage, I sprayed black primer for highy polished panel I sprayed Gunze White H1 before the red, I used to heavy thined my paint with Alcohol to avoid grainy paint surface The red is a mix of Tamiya X-7 and a little bit of Yellow XF-3 Aizu Micron Masking type is very helpful, for masking each color aera. Oups I realised the dorsal antenna have a wrong size, I've to correct this before weathering... Edited August 12, 2010 by Fanakit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Love it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AX 365 Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 Fantastic Ivan. The colour variations of the rear panels is remarkable. The results are well worth the effort. Keep it up. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DFN Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Like it ! :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TausugAIR Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Oups I realised the dorsal antenna have a wrong size, I've to correct this before weathering... Ivan, I love the way you treated the "hot metal area" . . an inspiration!! . . In your painting of the intake/s black (as shown in the box art illustration), does the paint covered the entire depth of the intake trunk; or was there a color demarcation just after the last ring of the cone? If there is a demarcation, appreciate much if you could describe how it's done, seeing that the assembly had been closed already? . . . Regards... Farouk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isaac Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Primer gray (Gunze) was airbrushed very thinned, ready for Alclad now Ivan Wow that is a very shiny primer coat you have there. I am not familiar with Primer gray from Gunze. Is it a lacquer? I normally use mr surfacer 1200 which needs to be heavily thinned and even then I can't get such a gloss sheen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 (edited) Thanks for your comments Wow that is a very shiny primer coat you have there. I am not familiar with Primer gray from Gunze. Is it a lacquer? I normally use mr surfacer 1200 which needs to be heavily thinned and even then I can't get such a gloss sheen. Isaac > for the primer I used Gunze H316, thinned with denatured Alcohol, easy to spray, easy to clean airbrush, and good stretch of the paint and a gloss sheen result as you can see. In your painting of the intake/s black (as shown in the box art illustration), does the paint covered the entire depth of the intake trunk; or was there a color demarcation just after the last ring of the cone? If there is a demarcation, appreciate much if you could describe how it's done, seeing that the assembly had been closed already? . . . Regards...Farouk Farouk, I do nothing for the interior demarcation, just spray the black paint in a front the intake, at this scale we can see nothing... Sorry for this poor pic of the model after a few weathering, only a wash in ungraved line, for the Alclad. I used Dry Pastel in powder I take a brush with a very few water and I apply this mix on the line. After a few minutes the excess is simply remove with humidified cotton, you could find this technic in a step by step (with pictures) on my website : http://fanakit.free.fr/patine/weathering_alclad.html A wash was applied over the red and white panel too, but this time with artist oil paint (black) heavy thinned with White Spirit. I cut away all decal film using a new scalpel blade, a lot of stencil in the Hasegawa decal sheet... This Hasegawa decal sheet include all the servitude stencil, I've rarely seen a so good decal sheet with Hasegawa... Ivan Edited August 22, 2010 by Fanakit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fanakit Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Applying decal is now finish, it take a lot of time... Ivan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
faab104 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 so perfect Ivan ! A tip concerning the unit markings : on the left of the bear, the red shape is a 2, the stomach of the bear is the 0 and the right the 3 ! for 203Sq Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TausugAIR Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Thanks for your commentsIsaac > for the primer I used Gunze H316, thinned with denatured Alcohol, easy to spray, easy to clean airbrush, and good stretch of the paint and a gloss sheen result as you can see. Farouk, I do nothing for the interior demarcation, just spray the black paint in a front the intake, at this scale we can see nothing... Sorry for this poor pic of the model after a few weathering, only a wash in ungraved line, for the Alclad. I used Dry Pastel in powder I take a brush with a very few water and I apply this mix on the line. After a few minutes the excess is simply remove with humidified cotton, you could find this technic in a step by step (with pictures) on my website : http://fanakit.free.fr/patine/weathering_alclad.html A wash was applied over the red and white panel too, but this time with artist oil paint (black) heavy thinned with White Spirit. I cut away all decal film using a new scalpel blade, a lot of stencil in the Hasegawa decal sheet... This Hasegawa decal sheet include all the servitude stencil, I've rarely seen a so good decal sheet with Hasegawa... Ivan yes, nothing to see in there, anyway... I'll follow your (and Faab104's) method . . . Many, many thanks... and, the Dry Pastel, is it CHALK pastel (as opposed to Artist pastel-oil)- scraped to get powder? Keep the modeling educational tidbits coming for nubs like me! Again, many thanks!! Farouk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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