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What is hotter than MicroSOL and Solvaset?


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If that doesn't do it, hydrochloric acid is your only bet.

Some decals are just badly made. Had one set of tiger stripe decals so resistant and I used so much solvaset that the PAINT started running off (well-cured paint, no less!)

That was a shocker!

Sometime's it's the nature of the beast.

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I think Champ decal solution may be beyond Solvaset, but I've never had a bottle to try so I don't know for sure. I believe it is most llikely to be found in a specialist model railroad shop, as Champ makes (made?) decals for trains IIRC.

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Lacquer thinner works for me sometimes, apply it ever so gently.

but try first on a spare model, you have one of those? do you? :thumbsup:

Happy modeling

Byron

Edited by ByronLeal
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Champ is stronger. Microsol is quite weak, actually. Gunze's Mr. Mark Softer is stronger. Solvaset is stronger still. Champ is stronger than that.

*Apparently* Tameo's strong decal sol is up in that range, too, but that'll be even harder to find than Champ (Tameo is a way different niche than a/c models, and most modellers have never even heard of them). You're probably looking at specialty/mail order model car shops... and even there you're limited to ones that do a lot of 1/43 and F1 stuff.

Barring that, yeah, lacquer thinner. I'd start with one of the "gentler", more plastic-friendly varieties like Gunze/Tamiya, then go to the nuclear hardware store stuff if needed.

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If the decal is printed with either vinyl or UV-setting ink, no amount of acetic-acid based solvent will faze them. Your best bet is very hot water. Wet a corner of a wash cloth in boiling water and use it to press the decal into the surface. It may take several tries to get the sticker to really settle in, so be sure to let the plastic cool off between subsequent applications.

You might also want to wear gloves to prevent leaving an impression in your hide.

Phil

Edited by Silverback
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What's hotter than Micro Sol and SolvaSet?

Candice Boucher and Jessica Biel, of course!

(Sorry, couldn't resist. We apologize for this silly interruption and now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.)

cheers

Old Blind Dog

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Tamiya DecalFix is pretty mean. If you add to much it'll melt a Hasegawa decal to the point of disintegration but works beaut as my top dog for stiff decals. Works well on thicker Academy and to me those are the test airframe for strong solutions.

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Looking for something a little more aggressive than the above mentioned products to hit those stubborn decals.

Thoughts or suggestions?

I have used with success the TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT.

This is Not a Joke.

I tested it on some decals and the resul is good.

It's like to use the nitro glycerin but the if used carefully the Extra Thin cement can flex the worst decal.

Look here:

DSCF3534_cr.jpg

This decal is applied on a base of FUTURE and covered with Extra Thin Cement.

THERE is ONLY A RULE TO FOLLOW : apply DROPS of Extra thin cement on the decal ONLY one time AND ABSOLUTELY do not touch the decal for some minutes.

The Extra Thin Cement do not destroy the decal, but if you TOUCH the decal's surface covered with Extra Thin Glue you will see the paint on the decal dissolve.

Better of all will be ok to place little drops of Extra Thin cement only on the TRANSPARENT part of the decal.

I have had the impression that the decal's film is melted with the Future.

Believe me a and do a little CAREFUL test: using this product I was able to get rid of the old extra rigid ESCI decals, those used from ESCI in the mid 80's.

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What's hotter than Micro Sol and SolvaSet?

Candice Boucher and Jessica Biel, of course!

(Sorry, couldn't resist. We apologize for this silly interruption and now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.)

cheers

Old Blind Dog

Heh, we used to have somebody at work here (in a different area, saw her in halls and break room) that looked JUST like Jessica Biel. I left the company for more than a year and when I came back she was gone. She was married, though (curses!)

We now return to your regularly scheduled thread.

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I can say, without a doubt, that Champ Decal Set out of Minot, ND is the strongest stuff that I have ever used. It is much stronger than Solvaset. I have never used Mr. Mark Softer.

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I have used with success the TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT.

This is Not a Joke.

Along the same lines, I have successfully used Tenax on thick & stubborn decals. It actually worked amazingly well, pretty much fusing the decal to the underlying (flat enamel) paint, no hint of silvering. As was said, though, it doesn't take much and you don't dare even look at it funny until it dries thoroughly.

:cheers:

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