Collin Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Looking for something a little more aggressive than the above mentioned products to hit those stubborn decals. Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks ATIS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark M. Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 If that doesn't do it, hydrochloric acid is your only bet. Some decals are just badly made. Had one set of tiger stripe decals so resistant and I used so much solvaset that the PAINT started running off (well-cured paint, no less!) That was a shocker! Sometime's it's the nature of the beast. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbrundt Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Solvaset is the hottest I know. Only thing hotter would be acetone or lacquer thinner........ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe Hegedus Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 I think Champ decal solution may be beyond Solvaset, but I've never had a bottle to try so I don't know for sure. I believe it is most llikely to be found in a specialist model railroad shop, as Champ makes (made?) decals for trains IIRC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ByronLeal Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 (edited) Lacquer thinner works for me sometimes, apply it ever so gently. but try first on a spare model, you have one of those? do you? Happy modeling Byron Edited August 3, 2010 by ByronLeal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragonfly Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 If you need to use laquer thinner for decals........you need to try a different manufacturer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Champ is stronger. Microsol is quite weak, actually. Gunze's Mr. Mark Softer is stronger. Solvaset is stronger still. Champ is stronger than that. *Apparently* Tameo's strong decal sol is up in that range, too, but that'll be even harder to find than Champ (Tameo is a way different niche than a/c models, and most modellers have never even heard of them). You're probably looking at specialty/mail order model car shops... and even there you're limited to ones that do a lot of 1/43 and F1 stuff. Barring that, yeah, lacquer thinner. I'd start with one of the "gentler", more plastic-friendly varieties like Gunze/Tamiya, then go to the nuclear hardware store stuff if needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hemi Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Daco strong is more powerful than Solvaset.HTH Mark http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_inf...roducts_id=2112 http://ultra.glo.be/daco/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Silverback Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 (edited) If the decal is printed with either vinyl or UV-setting ink, no amount of acetic-acid based solvent will faze them. Your best bet is very hot water. Wet a corner of a wash cloth in boiling water and use it to press the decal into the surface. It may take several tries to get the sticker to really settle in, so be sure to let the plastic cool off between subsequent applications. You might also want to wear gloves to prevent leaving an impression in your hide. Phil Edited August 5, 2010 by Silverback Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old Blind Dog Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 What's hotter than Micro Sol and SolvaSet? Candice Boucher and Jessica Biel, of course! (Sorry, couldn't resist. We apologize for this silly interruption and now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.) cheers Old Blind Dog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tempestwulf Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Tamiya DecalFix is pretty mean. If you add to much it'll melt a Hasegawa decal to the point of disintegration but works beaut as my top dog for stiff decals. Works well on thicker Academy and to me those are the test airframe for strong solutions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G_Marcat_Italy Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Looking for something a little more aggressive than the above mentioned products to hit those stubborn decals. Thoughts or suggestions? I have used with success the TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT. This is Not a Joke. I tested it on some decals and the resul is good. It's like to use the nitro glycerin but the if used carefully the Extra Thin cement can flex the worst decal. Look here: This decal is applied on a base of FUTURE and covered with Extra Thin Cement. THERE is ONLY A RULE TO FOLLOW : apply DROPS of Extra thin cement on the decal ONLY one time AND ABSOLUTELY do not touch the decal for some minutes. The Extra Thin Cement do not destroy the decal, but if you TOUCH the decal's surface covered with Extra Thin Glue you will see the paint on the decal dissolve. Better of all will be ok to place little drops of Extra Thin cement only on the TRANSPARENT part of the decal. I have had the impression that the decal's film is melted with the Future. Believe me a and do a little CAREFUL test: using this product I was able to get rid of the old extra rigid ESCI decals, those used from ESCI in the mid 80's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark M. Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 What's hotter than Micro Sol and SolvaSet?Candice Boucher and Jessica Biel, of course! (Sorry, couldn't resist. We apologize for this silly interruption and now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.) cheers Old Blind Dog Heh, we used to have somebody at work here (in a different area, saw her in halls and break room) that looked JUST like Jessica Biel. I left the company for more than a year and when I came back she was gone. She was married, though (curses!) We now return to your regularly scheduled thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 I can say, without a doubt, that Champ Decal Set out of Minot, ND is the strongest stuff that I have ever used. It is much stronger than Solvaset. I have never used Mr. Mark Softer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mkimages Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 I have used with success the TAMIYA EXTRA THIN CEMENT.This is Not a Joke. Along the same lines, I have successfully used Tenax on thick & stubborn decals. It actually worked amazingly well, pretty much fusing the decal to the underlying (flat enamel) paint, no hint of silvering. As was said, though, it doesn't take much and you don't dare even look at it funny until it dries thoroughly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I've used Tenax or equivalent as well. Use it in *VERY* sparing quantity with a *VERY* small, pointed brush, just touched to the area that's the problem. Works great. J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Hingtgen Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Anyone tried Plastruct Plastic Weld? Close enough to Tenax to work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
loftycomfort Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Nothing is hotter than Megan Fox. I'd like to spread her all over my umm, decals. Terry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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