Burbankbill Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 Hello; After punching out the individual dials whats the best way to hold them going in the water and applying them to the IP. Seems to me damage is likely with tweezers. Any tips? Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wdw Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 I put a small drop of water on my finger and float the decal on it. That way I don't have to fish for the tiny thing in a bowl of water. And fine pointed tweezers work fine for me. Warwick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Burbankbill Posted August 7, 2010 Author Share Posted August 7, 2010 Thankyou for the tips. I was able to apply one without difficulty but since I am on my second beer this saturday affternoon I 3will wait till tomorrow to complete the panel. Thanks Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted August 7, 2010 Share Posted August 7, 2010 I use those micro brushes. They retain the water, or what ever, so the decal stays. Comes in 3 sizes. I would use the smallest one (white handle) for gauges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate of the East Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 Question, when you guys/gals say you are punching out the dials and gauges, what type of tool or method are you using? Can you not just place the decal over the appropriate section and go that way? I have never had a build where the cockpit dash has decals, always just dry brushed to raise the detail and put a drop of Future over the gauge in the end. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T-bone Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 (edited) Question, when you guys/gals say you are punching out the dials and gauges, what type of tool or method are you using? I use a Waldron punch set to cut the dials from the larger decal sheet. It is like this Micro Punch Set sold by Micromark. Super handy tool and well worth the price of a good kit to pick one up for scratch building. Can you not just place the decal over the appropriate section and go that way? I don't know how you would control the rest of the decals from getting wet when trying to soak the desired decal. These aren't like dry transfers. So using the punch and die to cut the gauge off the decal sheet will prevent this. I suppose you could carefully trim the carrier film from around the gauge and then just cut the desired decal from the sheet but it is so easy with the punch and die to trim the carrier film and decal at the same time. Just be careful you don't hit the punch too hard when using the Mike Grant dial/gauge sheet (or other decals for the matter) since you can actually tear or damage the gauge/dial decal by crushing it between the bottom of the punch and the substrate you are using to support the die. I use a both a pair of fine tweezers to manipulate the small decals and then a fine tipped paintbrush to move the decal once off the decal paper. Here is a control panel I made using the Waldron punch and die set and the excellent Mike Grant Dial/gauges decal sheet Edited August 11, 2010 by T-bone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grey Ghost 531 Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I use a Waldron punch set to cut the dials from the larger decal sheet. It is like this Micro Punch Set sold by Micromark. Just be careful you don't hit the punch too hard when using the Mike Grant dial/gauge sheet (or other decals for the matter) since you can actually tear or damage the gauge/dial decal by crushing it between the bottom of the punch and the substrate you are using to support the die. You can minimize that problem by putting a piece of .005" sheet plastic under the decals when you're punching them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark M. Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I don't punch 'em. I cut them with a sharp exacto blade. Here's what I do: I cut close to it on one or two sides, but leave a bit of extra decal paper around the rest. I brush a bit of that decal film liquid on it first, let that dry, then score (close enough, no need to go blind trying to cut exactly) around the IP circle I want, then slide it over. The liquid decal protects the ink/dies from damage while I slide it, and this also protects me from shattering the decal. Sometimes it would break or shatter (more often just break) if I cut too close to the inked part, and sometimes if I used colder water as well. I ended up using warm water (candle warmer + glass cup) and the liquid decal and haven't had any issues with my IP decals since. Wonderful things! I once put over 30 of them into a 1/72nd F-16C cockpit!!! I have since regained my sanity. Then put over 20 of them in a He-111 cockpit! Then since regained my sanity after that. Now I'm eyeing my next build and trying to hold back... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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