White Paint

[pminer]

Guys,

I have a problem with white paint that yellows. (Testor Enamel Model Master) How do you guys resolve this?

Although it may be the Future....maybe not. I'm not sure.

But I really need to know the best white paint to use....acrylic or enamel. I want a hard looking finish...matt.

Thanks!

Paul

[thegoodsgt]

A small drop of blue paint in your white paint should address the problem.

[Charlie Cheetah]

Yup, that trick works well, use a true blue color if possible, not a sea blue or greenish blue.

[Rick in Maine]

I'm finding acrylic white stays white a darn long time. Longer, I think, than enamels. Nothing scientific here, mind you. Current favorite is Floquil Reefer White. YMMV.

Rick

[Triarius]

It's the clear binder that yellows, not the pigment. Because white pigments are very heavy, white paints contain less of them per unit weight, giving them poor hide. However, both types of white pigment have very high internal reflection, so less is needed. But there is still a lower pigment loading by volume in whites than in other colors, and hide enhancers cannot be used as much.

The addition of blue pigment helps fool the eye, it doesn't actually stop yellowing. Acrylic polymers, at least the more recent ones, are formulated to resist yellowing. Future contains one of the most resistant. However, the secret to avoiding yellowing is to avoid exposure to ultraviolet light, which is the causative agent.

[DutyCat]

I'm finding acrylic white stays white a darn long time. Longer, I think, than enamels. Nothing scientific here, mind you. Current favorite is Floquil Reefer White. YMMV.

Rick

Except that Reefer White is a lacquer, not an acrylic. And Reefer White isn't quite white. It does go on nice and cover well, though.

Edited August 13, 2010 by DutyCat

[DutyCat]

Guys,

I have a problem with white paint that yellows. (Testor Enamel Model Master) How do you guys resolve this?

Although it may be the Future....maybe not. I'm not sure.

But I really need to know the best white paint to use....acrylic or enamel. I want a hard looking finish...matt.

Thanks!

Paul

Ok, I am assuming you are using gloss white? If that is the case, it is the gloss portion of the formula that is likely causing the yellowing. I have not experienced your issue with MM gloss white, but I don't have any white planes in my collection yet. However, most of my planes have gloss white MLG and they still look good. But if you want to be sure, just don't use the gloss. Use MM flat white, mixed with lacquer thinner. It will go on smooth and cover well, similar to Floquil Reefer White (except whiter). When you are finished, gloss it with whatever glosscoat you have confidence will not yellow over time. MM lacquer glosscoat is clear in the bottle and I have not experienced any issues (but again, no white jets in my collection). I would avoid anything that looks too amber in the bottle (like Testors car gloss clear or Humbrol tinlet gloss Varnish). Future would probably be fine if you are good with applying it.

I can't address acrylics. In my opinion they are generally inferior to enamels in terms of overall performance, color fidelity/availability, and ease of use. Sorry.

Edited August 13, 2010 by DutyCat

[Triarius]

I can't address acrylics. In my opinion they are generally inferior to enamels in terms of overall performance, color fidelity/availability, and ease of use. Sorry.

I have to disagree. Acrylics have matured to the point that in many respects they are superior to enamels, and that trend will continue.

The absolute key thing for an enamel user to understand about acrylics is that they are different from enamels. As far as whites go, Dutycat's recommendation to use flat white and then gloss coat is dead on. Flat whites use a different white pigment (chemically identical, ,different crystalline structure) and contain a higher pigment load. Because they contain less binder per paint volume, and less of the film forming element is near the surface, they resist yellowing. They also have better hide because they can contain "colorless" pigments that increase opacity.

[DutyCat]

I have to disagree. Acrylics have matured to the point that in many respects they are superior to enamels, and that trend will continue.

I am curious. In what way, aside from initial cleaning ability, do you think they are superior to enamels? I would have no problem using them if they sprayed fine lines, didn't gum up my H & S Infinity, adhered well and could be aggressively masked over, had greater open time when hand brushing, shined up like natural metalizers (Alcad, etc.), and were generally available in a broad variety of colors (think MM range). If someone could pull that off I would be happy to use them. My wife would love it, as she hates enamel fumes. But, I haven't seen evidence of acrylics challenging enamels in ANY of the specific areas I have mentioned.

[TXCajun]

The absolute best white I have used is Tamiya acrylic....this coming from someone who uses enamels almost exclusively.

[DutyCat]

The absolute best white I have used is Tamiya acrylic....this coming from someone who uses enamels almost exclusively.

gloss or flat?

[Triarius]

I am curious. In what way, aside from initial cleaning ability, do you think they are superior to enamels? I would have no problem using them if they sprayed fine lines, didn't gum up my H & S Infinity, adhered well and could be aggressively masked over, had greater open time when hand brushing, shined up like natural metalizers (Alcad, etc.), and were generally available in a broad variety of colors (think MM range). If someone could pull that off I would be happy to use them. My wife would love it, as she hates enamel fumes. But, I haven't seen evidence of acrylics challenging enamels in ANY of the specific areas I have mentioned.

What acrylics have you tried? If you are using Model Master (ModelMucker) I'm not surprised. I know about as many people who swear at them as swear by them.

I have no problem spraying fine lines when they are properly reduced (thinned) and I use the right pressure. The amount of reduction and brushing psi varies from brand to brand.

Adhesion? Good grief, Tamiya and Polly Scale have tremendous adhesion. I've used both to paint camouflage on my hunting bow. It's been dragged through the brush for years with hardly a scratch (nothing's rock-proof.) MisterKit is chemically inert when cured.

And the key here is cured. Cured isn't dried. Acrylics dry rapidly but cure more slowly than most enamels—and don't develop full adhesion until fully cured. The solvents in most enamels attack styrene and other polymers, improving adhesion while the paint is still curing.

Open time: acrylics dry rapidly, especially those that use a predominantly alcohol solvent system (Tamiya, Gunze). To increase open time, use an acrylic retarder, widely available in any place that sells artist's supplies.

This will also solve your "gumming up the airbrush problem," which is worst with alcohol solvent systems.

Metallics? Have you tried Hawkeye's Talon? When used according to directions THEY ARE THE BEST PAINTS I HAVE EVER USED OR TESTED. (Not shouting at you, my browser and this site don't play well together. If I select bold or underline, I can't change it back.) They produce a shine, without polishing, that rivals Alclad. When polished with the powders, I think they look better than Alclad. And they don't need a fine surface—600 grit is enough. Their only drawback is that they are airbrush only.

As for a range of colors, if the @$$%&*#@!! at Testors come to their senses and don't discontinue them, Polly Scale has a very complete line. Vallejo does too, and they seem to be expanding.

Acrylics are different than enamels and have to be used and treated differently. I recommend you learn, for two reasons:

Because of VOC regulations, enamels will become rare, except as specialty coatings.

You hate the fumes? You'll hate even more what they may do to you.

If anyone in the house can smell the stuff you are painting, your ventilation is inadequate.

[peebeep]

The absolute best white I have used is Tamiya acrylic....this coming from someone who uses enamels almost exclusively.

Ditto and ditto.

peebeep

[DutyCat]

What acrylics have you tried? If you are using Model Master (ModelMucker) I'm not surprised. I know about as many people who swear at them as swear by them.

I have no problem spraying fine lines when they are properly reduced (thinned) and I use the right pressure. The amount of reduction and brushing psi varies from brand to brand.

Adhesion? Good grief, Tamiya and Polly Scale have tremendous adhesion. I've used both to paint camouflage on my hunting bow. It's been dragged through the brush for years with hardly a scratch (nothing's rock-proof.) MisterKit is chemically inert when cured.

And the key here is cured. Cured isn't dried. Acrylics dry rapidly but cure more slowly than most enamels—and don't develop full adhesion until fully cured. The solvents in most enamels attack styrene and other polymers, improving adhesion while the paint is still curing.

Open time: acrylics dry rapidly, especially those that use a predominantly alcohol solvent system (Tamiya, Gunze). To increase open time, use an acrylic retarder, widely available in any place that sells artist's supplies.

This will also solve your "gumming up the airbrush problem," which is worst with alcohol solvent systems.

Metallics? Have you tried Hawkeye's Talon? When used according to directions THEY ARE THE BEST PAINTS I HAVE EVER USED OR TESTED. (Not shouting at you, my browser and this site don't play well together. If I select bold or underline, I can't change it back.) They produce a shine, without polishing, that rivals Alclad. When polished with the powders, I think they look better than Alclad. And they don't need a fine surface—600 grit is enough. Their only drawback is that they are airbrush only.

As for a range of colors, if the @$$%&*#@!! at Testors come to their senses and don't discontinue them, Polly Scale has a very complete line. Vallejo does too, and they seem to be expanding.

Acrylics are different than enamels and have to be used and treated differently. I recommend you learn, for two reasons:

Because of VOC regulations, enamels will become rare, except as specialty coatings.

You hate the fumes? You'll hate even more what they may do to you.

If anyone in the house can smell the stuff you are painting, your ventilation is inadequate.

Well, here is the thing. Some of the performance bench marks you have listed require some sort of "step" to deal with the basic performance limitations of acrylics (retarders, extra drying time). Other issues we have discussed are only solvable only through gradual changes in the retail industry. One problem is many of the products you listed are just not available except through mail order. I cannot get Polyscale, Talon, Gunze, or Vallejo in Jacksonville. Our shops do carry Tamiya and MM Acryl. Acryl is known to underperform and Tamiya's color range is limited. As I said, I would be willing to try an acrylic that was locally available and worked well. With enamels, the only grief is the clean up and smell. They perform magnificently and I am very used to their properties. The smell doesn't bother me so much, but my wife does not like it at all. The Tamiya stufff has a good rep, so if they would introduce an entire line of FS series paints, they might be able to run with it as they have a well established distribution base and are known for top quality throughout their range (paints, tools, putties, primers...it is all good).

However, as enamels sell well, perform well, and are used in such a small amounts by hobbiests, I can't see them being discontinued anytime soon by the government. They would have to discontinue all consumer enamel/lacquer based paint...basically everything on the rattle can shelf at Wal-Mart that has Krylon or Rustoleum on the label would have to go, as well as all paint thinner and lacquer thinner, acetone, etc. And while we are at it, how about that nail polish and nail polish remover your wife/girlfriend uses?, or artists oil paints and all of the oil based specialty mixes/coatings/spray fixatives they use? Have you seen all of the oil based stuff that Windsor and Newton sells?

One other thing that I have heard....acrylic particulates, if they get into your lungs, never break down and are actually worse for you than enamels! Yes, we should all use a respirator and all that, but I for one would rather use something I know my body can flush out.

So, again, I maintain that based on performance, enamels are superior to acrylics in most ways. Acrylics are getting better as you have indicated. But I will continue to use enamels. If at some point, the regulatory or retail landscape changes and it makes sense to switch, then I will. Time will tell.

[Triarius]

<snip> With enamels, the only grief is the clean up and smell. They perform magnificently and I am very used to their properties.

Never try to teach an old DutyCat new tricks, eh? ;)

The Tamiya stufff has a good rep, so if they would introduce an entire line of FS series paints, they might be able to run with it as they have a well established distribution base and are known for top quality throughout their range (paints, tools, putties, primers...it is all good).

Amen to that, especially since Testors may discontinue Poly Scale Military!

However, as enamels sell well, perform well, and are used in such a small amounts by hobbiests, I can't see them being discontinued anytime soon by the government. They would have to discontinue all consumer enamel/lacquer based paint...basically everything on the rattle can shelf at Wal-Mart that has Krylon or Rustoleum on the label would have to go, as well as all paint thinner and lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.

Get used to it. While the current economic situation may delay things a bit, my contacts in the coatings industry tell me that most of the "enamel" and "advanced" lacquers will be gone in five to ten years because of VOC requirements. Coatings companies are working hard to find alternatives, and every time I go to the hardware store, I see increasing numbers of acrylic coatings, and decreasing numbers of the older, established technologies. I have a friend in the automotive painting industry, and many of the coatings he uses are now acrylics.

The basic solvents will stay longer, but I suspect we will see increased regulation and taxation, as happened with ethyl alcohol for entirely different reasons. Five gallons of punctilious ethyl alcohol (100% pure) costs about $25. Taxes and administrative costs (paperwork you wouldn't believe, even if you were a government bureaucrat) raise that to about $75.

And while we are at it, how about that nail polish and nail polish remover your wife/girlfriend uses?, or artists oil paints and all of the oil based specialty mixes/coatings/spray fixatives they use? Have you seen all of the oil based stuff that Windsor and Newton sells?

Going too. Acrylic nail polish is already on the market in small quantities—the ad wonks are using the "green" tag to sell it. Artist's oils will probably stay, as they use very little in the way of high VOC solvents, and are a "specialty coating." But the aerosol fixatives are already being converted to modified acrylics.

One other thing that I have heard....acrylic particulates, if they get into your lungs, never break down and are actually worse for you than enamels! Yes, we should all use a respirator and all that, but I for one would rather use something I know my body can flush out.

Any fine particulate in your lungs is very bad for you, and the ones that don't break down are no more dangerous than the ones that do. Sufficiently fine material that gets into your lungs, regardless of what it is, stays there—hence emphysema, white lung, black lung, and lung cancer. Those that break down often do so to form more toxic substances than their parent compound. As for "something my body can flush out"— organic compounds that get into your system have to be metabolized before they can be eliminated. This generally happens in the liver. When the liver "cracks" some of these, it produces substances that are more toxic, not less. Both the original compound and the "daughter" compounds have the potential to damage the liver and other organs, especially the kidneys, nervous system (including the brain), blood, and the bone marrow. Damage to these organs and tissues is ultimately deadly, messily so. Avoiding exposure when possible is the only real protection.

[DutyCat]

Amen to that, especially since Testors may discontinue Poly Scale Military!

If Polly Scale is regarded as a superior product to Acryl MM, why would they discontinue it? Or better yet, why don't they market it as Acryl and drop the Acryl formula?

Any fine particulate in your lungs is very bad for you, and the ones that don't break down are no more dangerous than the ones that do. Sufficiently fine material that gets into your lungs, regardless of what it is, stays there—hence emphysema, white lung, black lung, and lung cancer. Those that break down often do so to form more toxic substances than their parent compound. As for "something my body can flush out"— organic compounds that get into your system have to be metabolized before they can be eliminated. This generally happens in the liver. When the liver "cracks" some of these, it produces substances that are more toxic, not less. Both the original compound and the "daughter" compounds have the potential to damage the liver and other organs, especially the kidneys, nervous system (including the brain), blood, and the bone marrow. Damage to these organs and tissues is ultimately deadly, messily so. Avoiding exposure when possible is the only real protection.

Jeesh, I guess I should just sell my airbrush!

[Spectre711]

I am curious. In what way, aside from initial cleaning ability, do you think they are superior to enamels? I would have no problem using them if they sprayed fine lines, didn't gum up my H & S Infinity, adhered well and could be aggressively masked over, had greater open time when hand brushing, shined up like natural metalizers (Alcad, etc.), and were generally available in a broad variety of colors (think MM range). If someone could pull that off I would be happy to use them. My wife would love it, as she hates enamel fumes. But, I haven't seen evidence of acrylics challenging enamels in ANY of the specific areas I have mentioned.

I’m glad I’m not alone on this one. I thought it was me doing something wrong with acrylics but then again maybe it is.

[Triarius]

<snip>… I thought it was me doing something wrong with acrylics…<snip>

You probably are. As I keep saying, they are a completely different species, their care, handling, and feeding are different from enamels that you are used to. There is a learning curve. Experiment on a paint hulk, and buy the better acrylics like Tamiya, Gunze, and Polly Scale.

[Triarius]

If Polly Scale is regarded as a superior product to Acryl MM, why would they discontinue it? Or better yet, why don't they market it as Acryl and drop the Acryl formula?

Jeesh, I guess I should just sell my airbrush!

First question: Obviously, you are not a recent graduate of a business school (that's a character recommendation, IMHO!) That's what I'd do, but I also have the philosophy that "the only tool you can afford is the best tool you can find." I'm just an old reprobate out of step with the modern world…but I digress.

Testors acquired the Polly Scale line a little over ten years ago, IIRC. They usually buy a company or it's product line and run it into the ground (just look at the quality of their kits, made from molds bought from others and never maintained.) The didn't do their usual with the Polly Scale line, they left it as it was, only raising the price somewhat exorbitantly. They continued to raise the price, and the paint almost certainly costs more to produce than the inadequate but marketable Acryl line. In 2007 they changed the formulation of Polly Scale, probably in an attempt to reduce costs (the price, however, went up again). Last year, when I could not get a color I needed, I called Testors. One good thing I can say about the company: their customer support people are excellent! I learned that they were discontinuing the Polly Scale Military Colors line (leaving the Railroad Colors line intact) because it wasn't selling as well as the Acryl line. I pointed out to them the they haven't even tried to market the Polly Scale line, let alone as aggressively as they market Model Mucker ACK!ryl. I also told them that I was very disappointed and upset at the decision. I then posted the information here and on other forums urging folks to contact Testors and give them what-for about the decision. Then I stocked up on every color of Polly Scale acrylic that I thought I would ever need.

I have recently heard a rumor that they are reconsidering their abandonment of the Polly Scale Military line. Keep those cards, letters, e-mails, and irate phone calls coming, folks!

Second question: NO! Don't sell the airbrush! GET A SPRAY BOOTH! :)

[Miccara]

First question: Obviously, you are not a recent graduate of a business school (that's a character recommendation, IMHO!) That's what I'd do, but I also have the philosophy that "the only tool you can afford is the best tool you can find." I'm just an old reprobate out of step with the modern world…but I digress.

Testors acquired the Polly Scale line a little over ten years ago, IIRC. They usually buy a company or it's product line and run it into the ground (just look at the quality of their kits, made from molds bought from others and never maintained.) The didn't do their usual with the Polly Scale line, they left it as it was, only raising the price somewhat exorbitantly. They continued to raise the price, and the paint almost certainly costs more to produce than the inadequate but marketable Acryl line. In 2007 they changed the formulation of Polly Scale, probably in an attempt to reduce costs (the price, however, went up again). Last year, when I could not get a color I needed, I called Testors. One good thing I can say about the company: their customer support people are excellent! I learned that they were discontinuing the Polly Scale Military Colors line (leaving the Railroad Colors line intact) because it wasn't selling as well as the Acryl line. I pointed out to them the they haven't even tried to market the Polly Scale line, let alone as aggressively as they market Model Mucker ACK!ryl. I also told them that I was very disappointed and upset at the decision. I then posted the information here and on other forums urging folks to contact Testors and give them what-for about the decision. Then I stocked up on every color of Polly Scale acrylic that I thought I would ever need.

I have recently heard a rumor that they are reconsidering their abandonment of the Polly Scale Military line. Keep those cards, letters, e-mails, and irate phone calls coming, folks!

Second question: NO! Don't sell the airbrush! GET A SPRAY BOOTH!

First off, let me say that I am always impressed by your depth of knowledge and the style of commentary you use to get your point across. I really hope you’re a retired guy!

I just wanted to chime in on the acrylics point for a second. If you’ve run into any of my posts on this subject over the years, then this is what you’ve seen:

1) circa 2000, original ARC forums… Hate acrylics, it is the paint the Devil provides to you if you die and go to H*ll.

2) circa 2002, Hate acrylics, can’t understand for the life of me why anyone would waste their time with them?

3) circa 2005, Hate acrylics, why haven’t you idiots figured out that enamels are the only answer?

4) circa 2009, Hate acrylics, if you ever seen a modeler on a rooftop with a rifle, acrylics are the reason.

5) circa 2010, Why haven’t you switched over to (Tamiya) acrylics yet you bonehead?

Although I always panned acrylics over the years (even in my ‘How to Build a Model Airplane’ guide), I was in the background, regularly trying to find a brand and mixture that would work for me. Why? Well, because it really, really bothered me when I read posts by folks who swore by them and I couldn’t seem to get them to work for me. Certainly the guys posting those glowing acrylic reviews can’t be that much smarter than me!? I just gotta figure this stuff out. I did and it’s better.

I’ll say this for enamels… ‘open jar, stir, add 10%, 20%, 30%, 60% or 72.6% paint thinner the percentage doesn’t matter, stir again, paint’.

Yes, you need to add one or two things to most acrylics, you need to be a little more precise mixing, you can’t let it sit in your airbrush for 10 minutes, and if you forget to clean your airbrush for a day or so, getting that acrylic stuff out is way harder than enamels, I find anyway. By the way, I clean my air brush it was my kids that didn’t!

I’ll finish by disclosing what I truly believe is one of the sources of most people’s acrylic problem; bent needle. Clogging and splattering is 99 times worst with acrylics - if when you pull back the trigger on your airbrush, the tip of your needle is not completely clear of the surrounding seat. If it is touching or ‘leaning’ against the side it’s going to create a problem for you that you’re going to blame on the paint. Out of the modelers I know, when I've checked their air brush, 7 of 10 times the needle is bent.

[RiderFan]

Except that Reefer White is a lacquer, not an acrylic. And Reefer White isn't quite white. It does go on nice and cover well, though.

Depends on which Reefer White you're talking about. The Polyscale Reefer White is an acrylic. It covers very well (as do all polyscale paints), and stays white long after it's been painted.

For general purpose white, I still use Mr Surfacer 100 White. Sure, it's a primer, but it's also the best covering white I've ever found. I used it as a base coat for a 1:350 USS Enterprise starship (some pearl coating in areas on top of that) and it looks really sharp.

As for Acrylic vs Enamel. I will use Acrylic every time if there's a choice. I wish Tamyia would package their paints using "FS" numbers (rather than "Dark Sea Grey") but you can't beat them for quality of finish. Mr Hobby paint is also excellent.

Edited August 20, 2010 by RiderFan

[Triarius]

Miccara, the reason enamels are so tolerant is that it is an almost ancient technology—I should know, I was there… (Yes, I'm retired…or is that re-tired?) It has been essentially perfected. Acrylics are in their late developmental stages (moody teenagers… ).

But enamels, as I think I've said, are soon to go the way of the great auk.

And acrylics are, indeed, intolerant of a bent needle, largely because of their rapid drying and low open time. They start to cure as soon as they lose solvent, and a bent needle causes increased turbulence in the aerosolized paint flow, which increases evaporation rate as well as causing increased agglomeration (splattering).

Edited August 20, 2010 by Triarius

[Miccara]

Miccara, the reason enamels are so tolerant is that it is an almost ancient technology—I should know, I was there… (Yes, I'm retired…or is that re-tired?) It has been essentially perfected. Acrylics are in their late developmental stages (moody teenagers… :) ).

But enamels, as I think I've said, are soon to go the way of the great auk.

And acrylics are, indeed, intolerant of a bent needle, largely because of their rapid drying and low open time. They start to cure as soon as they lose solvent, and a bent needle causes increased turbulence in the aerosolized paint flow, which increases evaporation rate as well as causing increased agglomeration (splattering).

For those of you of perhaps a younger persuasion, I offer the following (translation)…

Miccara, the reason enamels are so tolerant (easy) is that it is an almost ancient technology (fire pit) —I should know, I was there (caveman)… (Yes, I'm retired…or is that re-tired?) It has been essentially (pretty much) perfected (new technology -microwave). Acrylics are in their late developmental stages (moody teenagers… ).

But enamels, as I think I've said, are soon to go the way of the great auk (Sony Walkman's).

And acrylics are, indeed, intolerant (unhappy with) of a bent needle, largely because of their rapid drying and low open time. They start to cure (dry) as soon as they lose solvent (some stuff in it starts to evaporate) ,and a bent needle causes increased turbulence (uneven air flow) in the aerosolized (misted) paint flow, which increases evaporation rate as well as causing increased agglomeration (splattering). (spitting).

No offence meant Triarius! I was just bored sitting around with nothing to do, and this seemed to entertain me!

Edited August 21, 2010 by Miccara

[Triarius]

It could have been worse—I have a tendency to quote Latin, or scientific German…

There was a t-shirt, years ago, that said in Latin "If you can read this, you're overeducated." There was another: "If you can't read this, you're undereducated."

None meant and none taken. ^_^

[DutyCat]

Yes, you need to add one or two things to most acrylics, you need to be a little more precise mixing, you can’t let it sit in your airbrush for 10 minutes, and if you forget to clean your airbrush for a day or so, getting that acrylic stuff out is way harder than enamels, I find anyway. By the way, I clean my air brush it was my kids that didn’t!

I’ll finish by disclosing what I truly believe is one of the sources of most people’s acrylic problem; bent needle. Clogging and splattering is 99 times worst with acrylics - if when you pull back the trigger on your airbrush, the tip of your needle is not completely clear of the surrounding seat. If it is touching or ‘leaning’ against the side it’s going to create a problem for you that you’re going to blame on the paint. Out of the modelers I know, when I've checked their air brush, 7 of 10 times the needle is bent.

So, I'll say it again....why would you switch to a product that is more difficult to work with? The only apparent advantages to acrylics are the lack of smell and ease of initial clean up. In every other way they are substandard or equal at best.